gene-z and minimum fan speed w/ water cooling and some recommendations please

[kizh]

First a small rant, its not a big deal because every motherboard I have ever had, has had some sort of issue like this. When I go into BIOS sometimes the CPU multiplier will reset, and I have to manually reset it. Not that big a deal, but when I do that, it takes off my custom fan settings. So whenever I alter my bios I have to go back and forth between these two several times to make sure everything is as it should be before I save.

Ok, now onto the main topic. I use water cooling with 4 pin PVM fans. I tried to plug them into the CPU headers at first, but the processor still can get hot and the fans would really speed up without really doing anything, cool air was still blowing out and my radiator is in a push/pull taking hot air out of the case right near the exhaust. So I decided to put them on the motherboard headers. This has worked out much better, keeping the RPMs down. I have a very small mATX case, and airflow is an issue, so my motherboard hovers around 100F. I've already modded the hell out of the inside of the case but it is hard to put some good cross airflow in there. I can overclock to 4.8 with no problem on a 2600k, but the core temps creep up and it starts throttling, nothing I can do about that. The water block just can't remove the heat fast enough no matter the RPMs. I can usually get about 5 minutes of this, before it will throttle down to around 3800MHz and hover there just under 100c on each core.

Does anyone have any ideas how I can keep the temps lower? I've heard air cooling can be better but the case just doesn't have good airflow. I've tried offsetting by like .1 v to try and keep voltages down and it won't post.

Now the real issue, regardless that fan RPM is having little effect on my cooling, I cannot set it below 60% for motherboard. I wanted a quieter case. I hope they add lower RPMs for people using water cooling solutions. I've almost considered replacing with low RPM 3 pin fans and giving up on PVM.

tl;dr:

Please let us set chassis fan RPM below 60% for those of us that watercool. Thanks.

[Almightydutch]

Manual Fan Controller mate. You need to remove lots of heat for 4.8. Using the PVM Fan headers is for stock fans only really.

[HiVizMan]

Maybe if you posted up a image of your case showing the air flow pattern someone could provide some input. I am struggling to really see the flow of air in your case. ;(

[Mack 4033]

This was my old set up...

Water Cooling System Information

FANS: 3 Black ULTRA KAZE 120mm fans moving 133.60 CFM OF AIR
Pump;Swiftech MCP655 12 VDC Pump
Lines 1/2 Custom Made
Radiator; Swiftech "Stackable" series radiators 1 MCR320-QP stack mounted inside the top my Corsair Obsidian 800 D with 3 Black ULTRA KAZE 120mm fans moving 133.60 CFM OF AIR out the top of the computer case.
Fan Controller; Aero Cool
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KEzBaHLMf3Q
Reservoir; RAD-Reservoir Clear Acrylic Design
Coolant; Distilled Water
UV Reactive Dye; Feser UV Green Dye
CPU Cooling Block; Swiftech CPU Block
*More custom cooling; I made a custom fan shroud to pull more air out of the back of the case

Thanks,
Mack 4033

[red454]

For cooling - I am using the Corsair H100 in my Corsair 500R case. Now, I probably don't stress my system like some people do, but worst case for temps I have seen is about 128 F, and that is with all 4 cores hammering on a solid model rendering. The games I play are not all that intense, like Bad Company 2 and COD4. When I monitor temps during games, I see around 120 F max.

All fans are stock. Although I added two - I used the Intel CPU fan that came with the i72600K and mounted it across the top of the ram as a homemade ram cooler. And one more small one to blow across the motherboard heat sinks next to the CPU.

Corsair is supposed to be releasing the Link for system fan control - http://www.corsair.com/corsair-link/...oling-kit.html

[k1zh]

Sorry, I erase cookies by session, and for some reason my password manager messed up and password retrieval on the site isn't working. Had to make another account with a different email address. Kinda ghetto here eh? I see they are merging stuff right now though, maybe I can get it back later.

From reading around here and other posts, sounds like I shouldn't be hitting the core temps I am. I have an H60 for my water cooler, nothing custom. My shelf is so damn small I just went and bought the smallest mATX case that would fit a full sized video card. I demolished the case, and the motherboard started to stop working right. It wouldn't detect my video card and the lan was gone. I don't know if I caused it or not, I hope not. Amazon is pretty good about returns though, the case I'll just trash and eat the loss. To give you an idea what I was working with I'm posting a link from google images.

ruler.jpg

Almost directly above the CPU there was a exhaust vent on the door I had to mod a little to fit a 120mm push pull. The only other exhaust is above the back of the case where all the ports are. Its quite small, and blocked partially by my radiator that is attached to the door vent, even with the pulling fan affixed to the outside of the case.

It was rated for a 65w core duo, had a ventilation system that fit around the CPU fan and pushed it through a channel to the outside. I got rid of that, didn't really fit with my water cooler, but might have done better with that and stock fan. I dunno. The front of the case had barely any vents, and was covered with USB and sound ports, and misc other stuff like power and reset so I couldn't drill me a 120mm intake. I thought hard about how I might do it for a few days, but it just wasn't possible. I tried putting an old ram fan that fit the 5.25 drive area nicely to pull air in, but it didn't really do anything. I tried my best, but failed. The model was an InWin BK623.

I'm settling on this, the next 'bearable' size up that I can have hang off the shelf a little. Looks like a sweet case actually, and cost a bit. I'll probably take a hit on my purchases, especially the old worthless case. I sent back my video card (not sure if it was the motherboard or video cards fault it wasn't detected) and SFF power supply cause this new case fits a full ATX. Its the SilverStone TJ08B-E. Mine's black, but this gives a good idea of how much air passes through this thing.

20111021190026827.jpg

Looks like the case has good a crossflow of air, so where ever I could I went fanless. I don't want the noise next to me. so I got a 80 plus platinum Kingwin (fanless) 500w PS and a Sapphire AX6850 that has a big ass fanless heatsink on it, I mean the thing takes up 3 slots. Not like I'm going to SLI on 500w anyways. I liked that this case makes use of the internal USB3.0 header too. The smaller one was still 2.0

I saw that fan controller from corsair, if it were cheaper I would probably go for it. For now I just bought a pair of $8 120mm fans with the least noise and most airflow and will give those a try as my push pull in the back.

Gonna take a week or so for everything to arrive. Probably won't push it so hard next time, 4.5GHz sounds fine. Definitely not messing with PLL or BLK overvoltages from now on, no matter what guide I read.

Thanks for the feedbacks

edit: forgot to add they were out of the regular gene-z's but I found an oddly worded gen 3 on amazon and snatched up the last one. Didn't say ROG like the other boards. Doesn't look like its any different, and the PCIe 3.0 isn't much use to me. Might as well future proof though. Odd thing is, on the website under storage it says six red SATA 6.0 connectors, and four grey 3.0. Under that for IO it has the same as the older gene-z with 2/4. Screen shot seems to show two red and 4 grey too.

when it arrives I'll answer any questions about it, it just came out right?

[debs3759]

If you are using an H60 and overclocking to 4.8 GHz, that is your problem.

Even with a custom loop, you would generally need more than one 120mm rad to extract all the heat that you are generating. You might get away with it at 4.5, but having the smallest closed loop you can get isn't going to give the biggest pereformance.

My loop is chilled to 14C (with a 2700K and a GTX 570 overclocked as far as possible, the chiller is struggling to keep the water at that temp!), and I can still get temps over 60C with some scenario (mainly when stress testing, but even folding can push the temp up to 45C above the water temp).

[HiVizMan]

The thermal dump that is going on at 4.8GHz is pretty intense and once the environment in the case gets toasty it is pretty hard to remove it with your current system set up. Add the heat produced by your GPU to the thermal load that is needing to be dumped and you have a problem as you have noticed.

The direction your air flow of the radiator is quite important too. Currently it sounds like you are blowing hot air from your case through the radiator, is that correct? Would it not be better to pull cool air from outside the case through the radiator and then into the case? Give it a try and see if that helps.

[k1zh]

bought the h40 cause it fit the exhaust port so well. I'll see if what direction I push pull will help in the new rig, been on my laptop the last few days and just about done with it since I can't access internet on it.

thanks for the tips.

Am I missing something or if its pushing out cold air in my original setup, the radiator isn't really getting too warm. Either the water isn't being circulated fast enough or ambient temp was screwing me I think. I would like to go custom someday, but looking at the plates for some vga coolers, looks like it will wait until I win the lottery or pay this thing off. I was pushing out of the case because ambient was already pretty high, with the fanless system I'm going to be running into it again possibly.

as always, thanks for the feedback