PDA

View Full Version : Is there ANY solution to this G752VY buzzing speaker?



davemon50
01-21-2019, 01:58 AM
G752VY is the laptop. The Realtek driver from the support page is version 7831. I have that installed.

I have tried every possible thing for weeks upon weeks and cannot get rid of this stupid buzzing, which is coming from the area of the subwoofer. It is software related, not hardware. I know this for a couple reasons: first whenever it engages I hear a click as if an application is starting when the buzzing starts, and then about 2 seconds after the buzzing stops I hear another click as if turning something off. Second reason is because I uninstalled the Realtek device and software under the Windows Device Manager, and before the Realtek software gets installed again the speakers work fine without this buzzing. But then I lose the driver and Windows automatically updates it again to version 7831.

What can I do about this? I'm about to throw this laptop at the wall. Everything else is great, but this sound loud buzzing is exasperating. I have read every solution on the net for so many others who have this problem and none of those solutions apply or work.

Bottom line, can I go somewhere online and download a different driver? Will it even work with this laptop? This never used to happen, it started about 2 months ago, and probably coincident with some Windows update. Obviously Asus doesn't update the sound drivers to be current with Windows or this would never have started. ANY, and I mean ANY, suggestions before my head explodes?

jdfrench3
01-21-2019, 03:38 AM
Download and install the Version 6.0.1.8443 Realtek driver (178.02 MBytes) on the G703 ASUS download page:

https://www.asus.com/Laptops/ROG-G703/HelpDesk_Download/

I find that this version of Realtek driver is most complete and sounds very good (I have the G752VSK).

This driver will uninstall your existing before installing itself, but requires a couple reboots. Just let the package do its' thing. If it doesn't work for you let me know.

davemon50
01-21-2019, 04:35 AM
Well I installed that version, thanks for the tip. Unfortunately it's still buzzing. It's so random I can't track it down. But I am able to force it to happen every time I hit the TEST button on the speakers under Playback Devices.

jdfrench3
01-21-2019, 12:01 PM
Can you verify the driver you have installed?

Control Panel/Device Manager/Sound, Video Audio and Game Controllers/Realtek High Definition Audio/Right Click Properties/Drivers

davemon50
01-21-2019, 01:14 PM
8443, yeah I checked that first after it was installed. I have tried reinstalls of the drivers and also just removal of the drivers, and rollbacks too. There seems to be a conflict in one of the installations maybe? How do I completely uninstall all registry entries? Is there a trick to that?

jdfrench3
01-21-2019, 02:14 PM
This is going to sound strange but it worked for me. I too had a problem with a Realtek driver corruption. Deleting the driver in Device Manager would not delete it. Installing a new driver on top of the corrupt one would result in sounding like crap.

I deleted the Realtek drivers found here:

Program Files/Realtek/Audio/Drivers
Program Files/Realtek/Audio/HDA

Program Files (x86)/Realtek/Audio/Drivers
Program Files (x86)/Realtek/Audio/InstalShield

Some files can not be deleted, that's OK, delete everything that will in those folders.

Then reinstall the Realtek Version 6.0.1.8443.

This fixed my corrupted audio driver, hope it works for you.

Let me know.

davemon50
01-21-2019, 05:05 PM
OK, tried that. The driver works but I still get the buzzing.

Tried something new. Updated to the latest BIOS. No joy.

I updated to Windows 1809. No joy.

I took off the back cover to look. The sound is coming from the subwoofer in the laptop. I know I said up top that it was software related, but maybe the subwoofer is bad and it only shows up when software tries to drive it, which could be why it seems software related. Unfortunately you have to take the laptop apart in order to get to the subwoofer. :(

jdfrench3
01-21-2019, 05:33 PM
Have you tried headphones? Is the noise heard while using headphones (wired or Bluetooth)?

Gps3dx
01-21-2019, 06:13 PM
OK, tried that. The driver works but I still get the buzzing.

Tried something new. Updated to the latest BIOS. No joy.

I updated to Windows 1809. No joy.

I took off the back cover to look. The sound is coming from the subwoofer in the laptop. I know I said up top that it was software related, but maybe the subwoofer is bad and it only shows up when software tries to drive it, which could be why it seems software related. Unfortunately you have to take the laptop apart in order to get to the subwoofer. :(

IMHO and my experience - it's a HW issue.
please read my remarks here (https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?78745-Another-Laptop-Intake-Mod-for-G751JY/page3&highlight=g751jy+intake#post681355), I wrote after performing an intake mod, which damaged my speaker's cables.

davemon50
01-21-2019, 06:27 PM
Have you tried headphones? Is the noise heard while using headphones (wired or Bluetooth)?


Using headphones the sound is clear and unbroken. No issues at all.

davemon50
01-21-2019, 06:29 PM
IMHO and my experience - it's a HW issue...


You may be right. It's clearly at the location of the subwoofer. Maybe it's just failing. I'll have to look online for a replacement part and see if I can disassemble. I don't think RMA would benefit me, from all that I've read here on the forums about the RMA process with Asus. :(

jdfrench3
01-21-2019, 06:37 PM
Use of headphones - good, then your issue is hardware.

Continue to use the 8443 driver, it's the best I have found.

Good luck with your hardware repair.

panzlock
01-21-2019, 06:37 PM
Is there ANY solution to this buzzing speaker?

https://i.postimg.cc/vZdY8k5Y/Cricket-bat.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

davemon50
01-21-2019, 10:47 PM
Use of headphones - good, then your issue is hardware.

Continue to use the 8443 driver, it's the best I have found.

Good luck with your hardware repair.



Well I ordered a new subwoofer online. Man they are hard to find. Anyway, I'll update the post when I get it and the dreaded disassembly and replacement. I've seen some videos on disassembly, so I think it's quite doable, although nowhere as easy as a drive replacement.

For the record, I also uninstalled the "speaker" driver under audio devices and then reinstalled the audio driver before the next boot. The laptop worked fine. But I don't think any sound was coming from the subwoofer at that point. The buzzing was back after the next boot though, so no resolution there. I have messed with all the individual speaker levels quite a bit and no go. I think you're right and it's just a bad subwoofer, so hopefully the replacement part does the trick. If not my head might really explode as threatened above.

jdfrench3
01-22-2019, 12:24 AM
With Windows 10 updates messing with audio drivers of late, I'm actually surprised you didn't have a badly corrupted driver. I had one so bad, I couldn't delete it using the Device Manager. I could delete it in Control Panel/Programs and Features but the driver would remain in Device Manager. That's when I located where the drivers are stored and proceeded to delete them manually (as I instructed you).

Good luck with your install.

davemon50
01-22-2019, 01:41 AM
I tried all methods suggested, except I didn't mess inside the registry which I thought would've been a bad idea given my limited knowledge of audio drivers. None of them worked. And since the only time I've seen relief of the issue is when I think the subwoofer is not operating after a driver deletion, then I am willing to give a new component a chance. I may try a few other things before I get the part but quite honestly right now am sick of dealing with it so I'll just use the headphones until I get the part so I enjoy the machine a bit.

davemon50
01-26-2019, 10:17 PM
The good news
I received the new subwoofer in the mail, it was an original part, new, with the same model and mfg name on it. I took apart the laptop today and replaced it successfully (I even recorded a video for the whole process). No damage or mishaps, put it back together, and everything booted up just fine.

The bad news
The new part made zero difference. So it's either some other part buzzing, or it is definitely a software issue.


Does anyone else have any ideas?

jdfrench3
01-27-2019, 12:09 AM
May sound strange but another post spoke of noise in their laptop and that it was not present when powered through the power brick. Simply unplug your laptop and see if the noise is still present.

Bye the way if the audio is good through your headphones then it's not going to be a software issue.

JustinThyme
01-27-2019, 05:04 AM
Ive never been fond of the sound quality past the G751. Went into the toilet. Sennheiser HD 700 cans if private or Bose Soundlink III BT if not. Takes it to an acceptable level of sound quality.

davemon50
01-27-2019, 03:05 PM
I do use headphones much of the time, but I usually have my laptop in an area with very little surface, and don't want to carry around extra stuff when I move it. Do you know of any good soundbar accessory that would work and be non-intrusive to the work environment?

davemon50
01-27-2019, 07:52 PM
OK so here's where I am with this and what I've learned.....this is a workaround and not a resolution.

The clicking sound on/off has been happening with this model laptop for pretty much everyone, and it's the sound chip enable/disable. The horrible buzzing I get on my machine happens whenever the chip is enabled, and is extreme. Apparently this seems rare. I did not resolve it by changing the subwoofer, it persists. On the software side of things, no amount of driver changes seem to be successful either.

So I'm left with my only option to reduce the buzzing is changing power management parameters to alter the time it takes to switch the chip on and off. I have experimented with this for several hours and it seems to be working as intended. The unwanted outcome of this method however is that I now get the heating up of the laptop on the right side near the headphone jack because the Realtek IC is left active. If you're interested in that discussion it's basically all contained within THIS THREAD (https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?82619-G752-Audio-jack-area-too-hot&highlight=G752VY+overheating).

For the moment I am leaving the power management on but not as frequent switching (implemented longer delays). The default was 3 seconds to turn off the chip, and I have it set to 10 minutes for the moment. If anyone else has a solution to try I will give it a go, otherwise this may just be something I have to live with, unfortunately.

davemon50
02-08-2019, 03:59 AM
Well new update. I can no longer use the laptop speakers at all. Any sound played is supplemented with an extremely loud continuous buzzing. Can't listen to anything without headphones. I'm guessing the sound chip is bad.

Is this something I can order and replace myself or is it soldered into the motherboard? Anyone know?

jdfrench3
02-08-2019, 09:17 AM
Sorry, but you know the answer, the audio chip(s) are on the motherboard. Yours is the first audio chip failure I've heard.

I would store my data and eSupport Folder, format and reinstall Windows before purchasing a new motherboard.

cl-Albert
02-08-2019, 05:21 PM
Well new update. I can no longer use the laptop speakers at all. Any sound played is supplemented with an extremely loud continuous buzzing. Can't listen to anything without headphones. I'm guessing the sound chip is bad.

Is this something I can order and replace myself or is it soldered into the motherboard? Anyone know?

Wouldn't expect the headphones to work if the audio chip was really bad though, but it does indicate the software is probably okay.

Anyway, just wondering if the internal speakers could be bad, or maybe there is something loose inside.

jdfrench3
02-08-2019, 06:32 PM
CL Albert,
He replaced the subwoofer (where he believes most of the distortion is originating).

QUOTE The good news
I received the new subwoofer in the mail, it was an original part, new, with the same model and mfg name on it. I took apart the laptop today and replaced it successfully (I even recorded a video for the whole process). No damage or mishaps, put it back together, and everything booted up just fine.

The bad news
The new part made zero difference. So it's either some other part buzzing, or it is definitely a software issue. QUOTE

cl-Albert
02-08-2019, 08:49 PM
CL Albert,
He replaced the subwoofer (where he believes most of the distortion is originating).


The good news
I received the new subwoofer in the mail, it was an original part, new, with the same model and mfg name on it. I took apart the laptop today and replaced it successfully (I even recorded a video for the whole process). No damage or mishaps, put it back together, and everything booted up just fine.

The bad news
The new part made zero difference. So it's either some other part buzzing, or it is definitely a software issue.




jdfrench3,

Missed that and thanks for the reminder/correction.

Not sure if davemon wants to look more into the 'some other part buzzing' possibility then, but if wired headphones are working okay, it isn't as obvious to me that it's a hardware audio chip/MB problem although it's still possible, and feel free to discuss in case I'm missing anything.

It may not be a good idea, but if the notebook can be safely tested in a semi-disassembled state, sometimes you can try to press on different areas while audio is playing to check if it's related to the buzzing or maybe get a better idea of the location while the notebook is partially taken apart although things can get much worse if you aren't careful, so may not always be worth the risk and trouble.

You can also try this before taking apart the notebook if it hasn't been done already and check if pressure in different locations on the notebook case affect the buzzing at all if it appears it could be caused by something loose.

Re-checking the subwoofer installation is another idea to make sure nothing obvious has gone wrong like loose screws, etc.

davemon50
02-08-2019, 09:23 PM
I tried the pressure zone testing a little bit, but I'll do that again, perhaps I missed something. When I opened it up to replace the subwoofer, nothing seemed amiss, no loose parts/screws, no pinched or crossed wires, and I didn't notice anything I needed caution on.

When the buzzing started becoming continuous I flipped it upside down, and the sound comes directly out of the subwoofer port, which is why I thought it was that part. If I run a TEST through playback devices, the speakers in the rear of the laptop produce sound as expected - and crystal clear tones.

Yes, regarding the wired headphones, I have never experienced any issues with them. I even plugged them in and out while all this was going on yesterday. Clear sound from headphones, take out 3.5mm plug and bam, back to buzzing. I actually have a USB with sound card for them anyway because they're HyperX, and if need be I would plug in the sound card and use USB.

Another little weird nugget is this: I was able to change the behavior yesterday. Continuous buzzing after the TEST tones, then I hit mute on the speakers and then unmuted the speakers and the buzzing was gone, until the next time the speakers were called for. But no matter what the buzzing was continuous whenever I played anything over them. When I started this thread the buzzing was brief or up to 10 seconds or so, then stopped.

I still get the expected sounds out of the speakers too, whatever's playing, a video, music, whatever.


Now I'm wondering if I need to buy a USB powered speaker and lug it around everywhere I use the laptop. I don't prefer headphones because I can't hear my kids, and because eventually all headphones get uncomfortable. :(

By the way, I do appreciate all the input you guys have given me, helps to sort it out and keep me from feeling I'm just crazy.

cl-Albert
02-09-2019, 01:00 AM
Another little weird nugget is this: I was able to change the behavior yesterday. Continuous buzzing after the TEST tones, then I hit mute on the speakers and then unmuted the speakers and the buzzing was gone, until the next time the speakers were called for. But no matter what the buzzing was continuous whenever I played anything over them. When I started this thread the buzzing was brief or up to 10 seconds or so, then stopped.

This seems to indicate it could still be a software issue then, but isn't clear if external headphones work okay and maybe muting the speakers just does something to the hardware.
Don't expect it would be this easy and you have probably tried the latest G752VY audio driver (.*7831) from the ASUS download page, but something to consider if you haven't.
You can also browse and install earlier driver versions through device manager as in the FAQ below.
https://www.asus.com/us/support/FAQ/1035065
(https://www.asus.com/us/support/FAQ/1035065)
If you have a spare hard drive lying around, one more idea is to compare with a clean install of Windows to help check if it could be a software issue, but wouldn't be surprised if it does the same thing, so may not really be worth trying.



I still get the expected sounds out of the speakers too, whatever's playing, a video, music, whatever.


If your notebook speakers seem to work okay and all the problems appear to be with just the subwoofer, wonder if you can get away with just unplugging it and using only the notebook speakers although your audio will probably be even worse.
Maybe something you would use only in an emergency.



Now I'm wondering if I need to buy a USB powered speaker and lug it around everywhere I use the laptop. I don't prefer headphones because I can't hear my kids, and because eventually all headphones get uncomfortable. :(

By the way, I do appreciate all the input you guys have given me, helps to sort it out and keep me from feeling I'm just crazy.

Yes, it may make more sense to just get some external speakers if you don't want to keep trying to chase this issue down.
Hopefully, someone else has some better ideas.

davemon50
02-09-2019, 03:41 PM
Yes, it may make more sense to just get some external speakers if you don't want to keep trying to chase this issue down.
Hopefully, someone else has some better ideas.

Might be the only option. I'm so frustrated with this garbage that I almost threw the computer against the wall this morning. It would be easier and worth more of my time to throw this in the trash and spend $3000 on a new one. I might just open it up and unplug all the speakers and say F it.

davemon50
02-14-2019, 10:17 PM
As a workaround I wound up buying THIS USB SPEAKER / SOUNDBAR (https://www.elegiants.com/ELEGIANT-Bluetooth-Wireless-and-USB-Powered-Computer-Speakers-p-216.html) and hooking it up yesterday. It's both wired and unwired (BT), and it's nice looking.

Quick bullet point review in case anyone is looking at buying an external speaker:

- It has an internal chargeable battery so you don't have to keep the USB cord plugged into it.

- It sounds ok (not poor, not great) - not a huge dynamic range but I can get some decent volume out of it with at least a fair frequency range. Very high frequencies (especially speaker test tones) cause the speaker to have a slightly tinny rattle, which is annoying. Does not happen below the higher frequencies, even at highest volumes. I don't think this unit is defective, it's just the limitation of the range.

- If you plug in USB only it does work (limited amps I'm pretty sure) but SSII does not recognize the device and W10 calls it a USB headphone.

- If you plug in 3.5mm it puts out more power and then W10 recognizes it as the "speakers", and now SSII can find it. However SSII equalizer adjustments doesn't appear to affect the sound as far as I can tell. It did sound like it had equalization effects, but altering SSII settings did not seem to change the sound in music samples. I need more testing on this part.

- If you play this speaker through the bluetooth connection the sound quality (my experience in 1 day) is poor. There has to be a way then to control the equalization or enhancements, but I could not find one, and again SSII does not recognize the device through BT, so I gave up on that connection ultimately and went back to the 3.5mm connection which I think is the best option overall for this soundbar.

- The width of the whole soundbar is slightly shorter than the width of the G752VY and its profile is low height, so you can place it conveniently on top of and neatly across the front of the laptop (over the touchpad) and still nicely see the monitor, in case you are just reading or perhaps watching a movie. Or directly behind the laptop as well without too much extra space being taken up. I tried both and liked both options. I was even able to type on the keypad with it sitting across the touchpad, although more slowly.

As an aside, I tried to sit it adjacent to the screen on top the laptop so most of the KB wouldn't be hindered, but the feet are not set outwards far enough on the width and they wind up pressing down on keys due to its weight. If you slide it 1 way or the other it still gets one of the keys. Also if you use the 3.5mm connection, it's in the back so it pushes the unit farther out from the screen (not an issue with BT connection).


So, overall this is a decent workaround for the problem noted in this thread. However, I may still have to unplug the subwoofer in this laptop since the problem seemingly cannot be resolved. :(