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Victus
08-09-2010, 12:52 AM
Being overly anxious, I blinded myself with excitement and posted in the wrong section of the ROG forums. I previously made a thread in the Rampage III Extreme Mobo section with assistance on OCing.

I understand basics from doing research [ie. Memory voltage must remain < 1.66v, need to follow multipliers, take it slow, keep an eye on temps and power]. I simply never OCed a CPU or through BIOS.

Below is the parts I'll be piecing together within the next three days.

CPU: i7 930
Mobo: Rampage III Extreme
RAM: Dominator GT 1600 7-7-7-20
GPU: 2x XFX HD 5850 1GB
PSU: Silverstone ST-1000p 1000w
SSD: OCZ 240GB Vertex 2
Case: Cooler Master ATCS 840
CPU cooler: Corsair H50

I will fill the 3 extra 120mm fan slots with Scythe S-FLEX all as intake.

Any assistance would be appreciated.

NOTE: I did see the OCing posts by V2-V3. I kind of understand the method of testing the clock via the golden rules. I'm simply confused on the parts I'm reading [vcore, qpi, cpu pll, etc]. I don't want to be one of those guys who just does a OC and sees Windows start up and assume it's a stable OC. Despite my over zealous behavior on miss posting the first time, I want to do it right, and I'm willing to take the time to do so. Thanks to those who assist in my new adventure.

69_Goat
08-09-2010, 04:50 AM
Where did you find V2's posts?
I was looking for them.

Kaboom
08-09-2010, 08:01 AM
In Bios I would enable load line calibration which will prevent any vdroop. It tries to prevent any droop in voltage. For instance, if you set your V to 1.3 it will keep it as close to 1.3 as possible. Also, don't jump higher than 10 base clock at a time. When you start to OC you want to OC your CPU first, then your memory. So I would set your memory to the lowest setting it can go for now until you find a stable setting for your CPU to run at. I don't believe your cpu is unlocked so your multiplier will stay as is. I would personally leave your voltages set to auto, once you start to get around 170+ base clock you'll probably need to up things a bit on the voltages. When it comes to voltages I recommend only jumping up 1, no more than 2, intervals at a time. Also, always make sure to monitor your temps (I recommend Core Temp, don't go with the BIOS readings) and make sure to stress test your settings. If you're getting upwards of 80-85C I would definitely try toning things down a bit. If you're at settings you believe your system should be able to run, but your computer doesn't start up it probably just needs a bit more power. That would be the time you'd wanna start messing around with voltages, like I said though don't jump very far when messing with that.

That will help get you started, but V2-V3 will definitely be the person you'll want to talk to about this. He's kind of a pro from what I hear. Best of luck on your oc'ing! Plus with your board there is a clear cmos button which will allow you to reset any uh ohs you do if you end up going to far with the oc'ing.

Victus
08-09-2010, 11:22 AM
In the mobi section in the Rampage III Extreme section. He has a couple threads/posts on the BIOS and other bits to help.

Victus
08-15-2010, 03:23 PM
Managed to pull a 4.2GHz clock out of the CPU, but at 100% load running Prime95, temps shot up to 95-100c. I shut the test down. Here are the settings at the moment.

BCLK: 191MHz
CPU Voltage: 1.4V
QPI: 1.4V
DRAM: 1.70925
CPU PLL: 1.88150V

It's idling at 55-60c and I know that isn't right. Going to revert to stock clock until further notice.

Are there any other settings I can either tone down or up to decrease temps?

Kaboom
08-16-2010, 11:48 PM
Your DRAM can be set at 1.65, and I would try lowering your CPU voltage until you can't start up anymore. That way you find the lowest voltage your computer needs at those settings. An easy way to find out is to turn off load line calibration, run a test, and see what your volts drop to. If you have your settings at 1.4 and it drops to 1.37 then you're over feeding. Extra voltage=extra heat. Other then that though your voltages look ok. Have you messed with any other settings?

Victus
08-17-2010, 01:36 AM
No. Second I saw 90c on coretemp I instantly shut down the test and cleared CMOS. I would be dead if I fried the CPU. At this point, I don't even need to OC my computer. As far as I'm concerned at the moment. I get 30+ frames steady in Crysis and that's all I'm looking to need at the moment. Once I hit up some more demanding situations, I'll consider tapping into BIOS again. Thanks for the feedback.

cookiesowns
08-17-2010, 08:00 AM
I would say you're IDLE temps are just way out of shape even at 1.40v. During some fun benching sessions I would run my 920 C0 chip at close to 1.50v with LLC enabled, yet just idle at around 45c under Air.
Is your H50 Sucking in air from the outside? I would say just do that.

First thing I would do is, try 160 bclk then just max out you're Multiplier which is 21? or 22. Not sure. and set everything on auto, except for the Ram, and see what your bios gives you. You should be at around 1.25v, If not, then your chip might not be the greatest clocker. After you boot in and verify the Clock/Voltages, run prime for at least 5 minutes, and check your temperatures. If its within 70c load, then its fine., if not, check your idle. it should be at around 38c ish. I personally have the Rampage II myself, and on auto the board scales really nice, even with my Early C0 920. Give it a try :)

PS: Personally I think your temps are way out of shape. Idling at around 40-50c? Not right for a H50

What is your idle temps at stock? ( EIST enabled or disabled )

Victus
08-17-2010, 02:15 PM
Idle temps at stock are 40c average. I know they should be down around 35, that's what most people seem to get. Though I live in Florida and my rooms temperature stands around 80 degrees average. Here is how my H50 is positioned.

http://i905.photobucket.com/albums/ac256/DGrywalski/IMG_0026.jpg

The ATCS840 has a 230mm fan in the front pulling in cool air. It pushes it through the HDD bays and then the 120mm for the radiator pulls it the rest of the way. In my work logs I stated the radiator on the H50 wouldn't fit because of the location the R3E had for it's mobo power connections.

I'm thinking simply due to the overall outset temperature of the case and the other hardware inside, it's running a bit hot. Air ventilation is great though, I'll see what I can do.

EDIT: I guess it's rumored, it's best to have the pipes on the bottom of the rad for easier water flow. Gonna think of a new mounting method to test it.

EDIT2: OCed to 4.0GHz at 1.2v - Prime95 took temps temps up to 75c then BSOD due to lack of voltage I'm assuming. Cleared CMOS and running at stock again. I have a few thoughts as to why the radiator isn't running cool. I think my competing 120mm fan under the H50 in that picture, is pushing more air than the H50. Going to shut down, remove it and see what happens.

Kaboom
08-17-2010, 06:30 PM
I have the H50 as well, and I run idle around 40-46C. I have the i7 875k, and some chips just run hotter than others. I haven't had luck with the H50 either, but as long as you aren't going upwards of 80C+ on 100% load you'll be fine.

Victus
08-17-2010, 11:59 PM
Yeah. I just played through Crysis today at everything stock. Ran smoother than a babies behind maxed out 1920x1200 16xAAQ and all that jazz. Great game, solid detail and it warped my brain something fierce. So for now, until I get the cash and guts to do a full water cooling system, everything seems to be fine at stock. Might take it up to 3.5 if deemed necessary. Thanks for all the help peeps.

Hpnotiq
08-19-2010, 08:50 AM
Victus,

Your system looks pretty nice. I like how you used your cable reroute holes for the most part to keep cable clustering to a minimum, something a lot of people seem to skip or forget these days. One thing I can suggest that we used to do a long time ago was throwing up a house fan or box fan near the system when we OC'd it to provide extra air flow over the entire system. It might not seem like much, but every little bit helps when your trying to push 88Ghz at 1.21 Giggawatts.

V2-V3
08-19-2010, 08:59 AM
Victus, Check your CPU mount for good contact and pick up some better thermal paste.
I recommend IC Diamond Thermal paste (http://www.heatsinkfactory.com/ic-diamond-7-carat-thermal-compound-15-gram-p-16605.html)
i have seen load temps drop upwards to 20c with a good remount. if you can drop your temperatures your CPU will be more stable.
I recommend using 1.28v on the CPU core and getting your temps down to below 75c P95 load

replace your H50 fan with something that has better CFM of air flow
Delta makes the best fans for radiators IMO, the Delta FFB1212EH-PWM 120mm is 150CFM and can push through the radiator and your temps will drop significantly

Victus
08-23-2010, 09:16 PM
I have a video currently processing on YouTube of an OC I just did. I hit 4.0GHz at 1.2v - Temps went up to 75c and then I blue screened. I'm down to 3.5GHz, idling at 50c and maxing at 65c using P95. I'll be out for the next couple hours but I'll post the YouTube link any way. As stated, any feedback is much appreciated and pardon the lack of sound towards the end.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dThRdLTLyfA

darktron
08-23-2010, 09:22 PM
i'm using noctua nh-d14 cpu fan cooler and i'm loving it

Victus
08-23-2010, 09:29 PM
I saw in your thread. I'm rolling on a H50. Seems I'll be buying two new fans, and I'm not sure I need to remount though. I'll see how the fans do first after I get more feedback on my video once it's up.

Hpnotiq
08-23-2010, 09:53 PM
The Video is still being processed! YouTube wont let me watch it =(

Victus
08-23-2010, 10:17 PM
Yeah. I'm in my iPhone at the moment. I'll keep checking and post back when it's up I guess.

Victus
08-24-2010, 03:48 AM
Only 320p but it's up and viewable now.

Victus
08-24-2010, 10:39 PM
Is it possible to have the block on too tight or loose?

xeromist
08-25-2010, 12:14 AM
The only symptom of "too tight" would be breaking something. You're not going to warp a solid block of copper by having it on too tight. You can have it tightened too much on one side though. Easiest way to avoid this is to alternately tighten it at the diagonals to ensure that everything is tightened evenly. Having a heat sink too loose can cause it not to mate properly if it is allowed to hang and gap. Having too much paste can inhibit thermal conduction. The paste is only designed to fill flaws in the mating surfaces, not act as a cream filling. :) Finally, some pastes take a bit of time to cure and can actually drop a degree or two after curing.

Victus
08-25-2010, 02:05 AM
All right. I'll check it all out after class tomorrow. I think I need to re apply period because when I first put it on, the tubes wouldn't reach how I needed them to. So I removed it and didn't smooth out what was still there and I think it's making heat pockets because cores 1 and 3 run hotter than 2 and 4 by 4c average.

xeromist
08-25-2010, 03:06 AM
In general it seems that certain cores will run hotter. Certainly core 1 tends to be hot because it is always first hit for any task. That said, there's nothing wrong with reapplying your paste. I don't know how you did it the first time but if you have an old credit card or similar plastic with a straight edge you can use it as an applicator to smooth on just enough. I've also used my finger to push the paste thin and even but unless your hands are super clean you'll leave dirt and skin cells behind.

Kal-EL
08-30-2010, 12:17 PM
I'm running a 980x @ 4.5ghz @ 1.46 vCore 24/7, gaming, the whole nine yards. My heatsink is a megahalem w/IC Diamond thermal paste. I have a single, weak, silverstone fan mounted to the Megahalem heatsink.

The IC Diamond makes a world of difference in the rate of heat transfer from the cpu IHS to the waterblock or air h/s. This translates into cooler idle and load temps which of course means higher overclocks.

A full water cooling setup has advantages and disadvantages. Mostly, a water cooling setup has alot more capacity (ability to move away longer durations of heat load) than an air h/s. Watercooling doesnt change the rate of heat transfer between the cpu IHS and the waterblock or air h/s. There are tons of variables to a waterblock ability to transfer heat and then move that heat off via the coolant. Water cooling can be made near silent with enough radiator realestate and low rpm/high static pressure fans.

This Megahalem/IC Diamond Thermal paste combo I'm running blows the H50 out of the water at idle and load. I know, I have both and the H50 sits under my watercooling cabinet collecting dust. So, I humbly recommend saving the loads of cash you'll spend on a custom water-cooling setup and using that cash to:

1- upgrade a system component
2- purchase a Liquid Nitrogen/Dry Ice Evaporator(Pot) for weekend warrior overclocks
3- purchase a pink ROG t-shirt for that someone special in your life

Victus
08-30-2010, 12:31 PM
1- upgrade a system component
2- purchase a Liquid Nitrogen/Dry Ice Evaporator(Pot) for weekend warrior overclocks
3- purchase a pink ROG t-shirt for that someone special in your life

1. Upgrade from an H50 to a Meglahelm possibly? I'll first do my H50 remount then work on another solution if it doesn't help.
2. Plan to when I find the money.
3. I was trying to make a funny involving Kaboom, but I couldn't word it right.

V2-V3
08-30-2010, 10:15 PM
I'm running a 980x @ 4.5ghz @ 1.46 vCore 24/7, gaming, the whole nine yards. My heatsink is a megahalem w/IC Diamond thermal paste. I have a single, weak, silverstone fan mounted to the Megahalem heatsink.

The IC Diamond makes a world of difference in the rate of heat transfer from the cpu IHS to the waterblock or air h/s. This translates into cooler idle and load temps which of course means higher overclocks.

A full water cooling setup has advantages and disadvantages. Mostly, a water cooling setup has alot more capacity (ability to move away longer durations of heat load) than an air h/s. Watercooling doesnt change the rate of heat transfer between the cpu IHS and the waterblock or air h/s. There are tons of variables to a waterblock ability to transfer heat and then move that heat off via the coolant. Water cooling can be made near silent with enough radiator realestate and low rpm/high static pressure fans.

This Megahalem/IC Diamond Thermal paste combo I'm running blows the H50 out of the water at idle and load. I know, I have both and the H50 sits under my watercooling cabinet collecting dust. So, I humbly recommend saving the loads of cash you'll spend on a custom water-cooling setup and using that cash to:

1- upgrade a system component
2- purchase a Liquid Nitrogen/Dry Ice Evaporator(Pot) for weekend warrior overclocks
3- purchase a pink ROG t-shirt for that someone special in your life

ECHO!!!
Spoken like a true master of the overclocking arts!

I second and third the IC Diamond, also try Indigo Xtreme its better than IC Diamond but more expensive

Hpnotiq
08-30-2010, 11:31 PM
IC Diamond is very amazing. I used it for my

weekend warrior overclocks.

And actually we tested it out on LN2 based on Honda City saying it was going to crack at extreme temperatures. I took an old LN2 Pot, I think V2-V3's 2nd or 3rd generation prototype, put a nice thin coat and covered it with masking tape to ensure no moisture built up on it. filled the pot up and dropped the temp to -190c, peeled the tape off and sure enough, smooth IC Diamond all over the pot.

Victus, I'm not sure how your applying your thermal paste but I would recommend using a razor blade with no nicks in the blade, at a very flat angle, say 20-30 degrees from the surface your applying to and go back and fourth in different directions. Your goal is to take a very small amount of paste and "kneed" or stretch it out as thin as possible. Also you can try heating up the compound in the microwave a little if your having a hard time getting it out of the tube. Finally... never be afraid to check your mount, if your have strange issues with heat or odd problems with your system, don't be afraid to check your mount and re do your thermal paste.

Victus
08-31-2010, 03:25 AM
Yeah, I fell for the 'pre-applied thermal compound' situation and just plastered the thing on there. I'm going to check a couple temps [rad/ambient inside the case/load temps/load ambient]. I may take V2-V3's advice to get 2 150CFM fans on top of the paste to ensure air is getting through. I think it's just a piss mount because my initial mount had to be redone because I needed to rotate to get an extra inch out of the tubes to do a front mount and I never re-smoothed the compound. I think I'll grab a 10$ thing of paste at Best Buy, and use that to do a test. If that solves it, depending on temps. I may or may not buy IC Diamond.

Victus
08-31-2010, 05:06 PM
So, I attempted a remount. I still feel like I did a ****ty job because the temps haven't changed to the slightest degree. I know it needs time to cure but I heard the temperatures don't drop that much even after doing so. I ran Prime95 with a 3.5GHz OC at 1.15v and temps hit 70c. I'm idling at 45c at the moment and I even moved the rad to the front of my case away from my GPUs since they run hot.

Also, my case is pulsing via vibration. I'm assuming do to my method of airflow? Is this a bad thing?

Another issue. I hear air bubbles in my H50. I'm pretty sure that isn't normal?

EDIT: @ V2-V3 - The fans on my radiator are 100% pushing enough air, it's just really warm. Could it be just a bad H50?

xeromist
08-31-2010, 06:41 PM
Maybe you already said this but are the fans pulling air from the outside or inside of the case? Corsair recommends pulling cool air from the outside and exhausting hot air into the case for optimal CPU temperature. I don't like running this way because I don't want to heat the case unnecessarily but a standard air cooler heats the case anyway.

The vibration is probably because one of the fans is slightly off axis. I have this problem with one of my cases but pushing on the corner of the case changes the shape slightly(changing the orientation of the fan) and it goes away.

As for bubbles, the ideal orientation for a closed loop radiator is with the fittings/tubes on the bottom so that it can allow any trapped air to collect at the top rather than circulate through the lines. That said, I have my fittings at the top and haven't had a problem that I've noticed.

Kal-EL
08-31-2010, 06:52 PM
You sure you plugged the pump lead in? Hope its not coolant boiling in there.

Victus
08-31-2010, 07:42 PM
Here is my current set up inside the case.

http://i905.photobucket.com/albums/ac256/DGrywalski/1ba324d5.jpg

Rad is an intake and a 230mm in front of it is pushing cold air to it. This situation is really starting to upset me because I have more than enough airflow on this thing and it is putting out ridiculous temps. I'm at 2.8GHz with 1.15v and I'm idling at 43-45c. There is no way that one can possibly say "Your CPU just runs hot" because this is just pathetic.

xeromist
08-31-2010, 08:07 PM
You sure you plugged the pump lead in? Hope its not coolant boiling in there.

Good point. Or maybe that vibration is actually the pump failing. Can you trace the source of that vibration, Victus?

Oh, dang I just looked at that picture. I wouldn't really place the rad there. Even the area in front of the rad is going to be warmer than outside air. Keep it mounted on the rear exhaust but try turning it around to exhaust into the case. The case will be warmer but the top fans will hopefully get rid of the heat.

Victus
08-31-2010, 08:08 PM
I believe it's the overall pressure within the case because once I take off the side panel, it goes away. Also, the pump is quite hot. But it is 100% plugged in. I nicked my finger on the rear exhaust fan making sure it was.

xeromist
08-31-2010, 08:20 PM
I will have to check mine to see how noticeable it is but there should be at least a small vibration coming from the pump to let you know that it's working. There will also be sound but with everything else in a case it will probably be hard to hear.

Victus
08-31-2010, 08:20 PM
The hoses vibrate as if the fluid is moving through them. Though it could be the overall vibration of the case.

My original location was at the rear, but the GPUs put out such hot air it just sucks it in. Outside air at the back isn't that cool. And I checked the front. It's cold.

xeromist
08-31-2010, 08:41 PM
Alright, well you could try adding some ducting made out of whatever you have lying around. If you can keep the fans from sucking air from the surrounding case it might help a little. I know you want bigger improvements but until you figure out something better every little bit helps.

What's the ambient temp in your room today, BTW?

Victus
08-31-2010, 09:18 PM
About 24-26c

I'm going to remount tomorrow. I don't think I used enough thermal compound. The compound I used was very runny. The straight edge blade didn't float on top it just moved it around. I ended up putting small dabs around and then applied the block and rotated it in attempts to evenly distribute it and then tightened down the brackets.

Hpnotiq
09-01-2010, 10:32 AM
It takes a few attempts to get the compound smooth, try using a credit card edge if a straight edge blade isn't working out for you. If your keep playing around with it, eventually it will spread out and get smooth.

By the way your system looks sick, I love seeing 6 sticks of Dominator RAM. Honestly though I would recommend just tossing the H50 in a closet and upgrading to a larger water cooling solution. The H50 is nice and all, but I don't think its really that effective on a system like yours. You've got a TON of power going through that board to not only supply a beast of a CPU but 2 Graphics cards and 6 sticks of RAM, which all adds some heat to the system. The H50 has a small rad, small lines and a tiny pump. If you have the spare cash floating around look into Danger Den or Koolance for some better water cooling solutions. There are other companies out there, but Danger Den and Koolance are the only two I know of that have good water cooling. V2-V3 is A LOT more knowledgeable on this subject then I though. Be warned though, he might talk you into building a water chiller or phase cooler (which would both provide MUCH better system cooling).

Basically how I look at it, the more money you spend on hardware, the bigger budget you should set aside for cooling; of course you should always have a LN2 Budget.

Victus
09-01-2010, 12:20 PM
Haha. Yeah, I soon should see a nice increase in my paychecks shortly. I'm going to attempt to RMA the H50 since I know of a couple other people with very similar systems having idle temps at 30 using stock everything, no push and pull on the rad or anything. Something about it just doesn't seem right. I may go with a Meglahelms H/S with a push n pull or another high performance once since it wont rely on water being cooled.

I don't exactly have the budget for a water cooling lineup at the moment. Though I'll be pinching away some dough on the side. I figure a two circuit system would be fine.
1. GPU > GPU
2. CPU > SB/NB

I'll make a wishlist and post it here to get analyzed. I know Darth is a huge fan of the DD products and a couple others will probably have their two cents to put in. I'll live with my 3.5GHz at the moment I guess. I'll be doing a remount today and putting the radiator at the back of the case again as intake, and I'll use the attachment my case came with to redirect GPU exhaust away from the rear port.

Victus
09-10-2010, 05:05 PM
Update!

A weird one too?

I was having issues with my BIOS v802, so I updated it to 901 and some great things happened.

In 802, I wasn't able to hit 3.5GHz without upping voltage to 1.1625v. Now, with 901, I hit 3.5GHz at 1.13v and have managed to hit 3.8GHz with 1.17v - I've hit a small road block and that is the fact my Turbo V Evo isn't responding no matter what I do. Though my chip is fine and I'm OCing while I have Prime95 running. Temps [I'm assuming] will stay under 75 since after a few minutes they hover at 70-71 for a while.

Going to report back once I find a stable voltage at 4.0GHz with hopefully not much higher temps.

Victus
09-11-2010, 06:12 PM
Buying a new cooler. They accepted to take back my H50 and I'm in debate of getting the H70 [ skeptical ], or the Cooler Master V8. Any other recommendations?

pcjunkie209
09-11-2010, 11:28 PM
Be sure of clearance for v8 I have it and it's big! If it is not seated on CPU firmly temps are so so

Victus
09-12-2010, 01:55 AM
I have the Cooler Master ATCS840, it's a easy fit. Are the temps low when seated properly? Also, I hear a lot of people strip the screws and sometimes the mount breaks the mobo or the thing falls out crashing on the GPUs.

pcjunkie209
09-12-2010, 05:57 AM
Just take your time mine went it with ease and I meant ram clearance and other stuff not case.....lol I modded mine two have green led fan and put blue LEDs up top. And as for crash and burn they must have been some rookies. :) as long as u tighten down all the way should be fine. U might want to try zalman Cnps 10x flex cheaper and better temps. Food for thought. Never mind clearance I am looking at them both ask I type and it's the flex that will need some clearance if you do push pull.

Victus
09-12-2010, 04:09 PM
Valid, I wasn't even thinking of memory clearance. I can't fit any sort of air cooler in push n pull on the R3E. Think I'll be aiming for the H70 and do solid mount this time.

pcjunkie209
09-12-2010, 04:19 PM
Sounds good I hear h-70 is pretty good. I thought about getting it and throwing it in a bucket of ice see what temps I get then....lol

Victus
09-12-2010, 05:10 PM
After short thought. I'll live with 3.5GHz at the current temps I'm getting. After my Mini Cooper I want to get, I'll be getting a nice water cooling system. And with the cooler months coming up, my temps will drop and I may be able to pull 4.0GHz.

I was looking at Danger Den stuff, but I'm looking to color code my blocks. Their 1366 CPU block is clear and you can see the copper [not a fan]. So if I can get pointed to some other companies with colored blocks, I would greatly appreciate it.

pcjunkie209
09-12-2010, 06:24 PM
Try EK they have a nice red one it's the hf supreme and I think aquacool has a nice red one also

Victus
09-12-2010, 06:40 PM
Yeah, I saw a picture of some EK gear, I've assembled some stuff. All black blocks with black tubing red springs, or maybe red tubing black springs? Going to be adding on to that list the supplies to redo my PSU cables for black/red. Including getting my case full black.

pcjunkie209
09-13-2010, 02:10 AM
ya i have two EK hf supremes black and nickel

Victus
10-10-2010, 01:15 AM
Finally got my new desk.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs726.snc4/64689_160656657286514_100000265428851_445201_76325 72_n.jpg

And now do to the open environment of my PCs location, I've hit 3.8Ghz maintaining the same temps I had at 3.5. Going to attempt 4.0Ghz now.

ottoyu34
10-10-2010, 04:13 AM
Nice, what desk is that?

Victus
10-20-2010, 02:07 AM
Custom build from IKEA. Sturdy and sexy.

pcjunkie209
10-20-2010, 03:50 AM
that is a nice desk!:)

Victus
11-04-2010, 04:22 PM
Thanks

Also! Just grabbed 4.015Ghz at 1.225v stable.

Victus
01-02-2011, 07:52 AM
Having some issues again. Computer BSODed while I was in PS CS5 today.

Temp: 45c~
Frequence: 4.0GHz
BCLK: 183
vCore: 1.225

With this happening within normal operating temperatures, I decided to clear BIOS restart the OC for a new stable one.
I'm having an issue locking my multiplier at 22 now however, I have the features set so it doesn't flux up and down yet
it still does. Was hoping someone had some thoughts on this.

P.S. Is this a sign of a dying/near dead CPU?

V2-V3
01-02-2011, 10:51 AM
Try increasing your CPU core voltage to 1.3v and watch the temperatures under load, avoid going above 75c

test your CPU stability with Prime95 software and let it run for a few hours to catch any errors in calculation or if your PC crashes.

there is not enough information yet to determine if it is CPU degradation it usually takes 3+ years of high clock speed and voltage to cause degradation of the microprocessor.

your settings look ok and are within normal operating ranges.

Victus
01-03-2011, 02:49 AM
Yeah, Prime95 came back with no hickups. I'm just going to laydown at 3.5GHz with a 1.1625vCore. Least until Crysis 2 comes out.

EDIT: 1.225vCore was already spitting out mid 70s in Prime.