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View Full Version : TIght waterblock screws = no boot ?



LiveOrDie
01-25-2014, 08:23 AM
So i finally found the problem why my board would no longer boot it would just power on for a second then off in a loop, It seems to be the water block screws doing it if there loose it boots every time, I even tried doing them up a bit but got random resets in windows.

HiVizMan
01-25-2014, 12:25 PM
I am sorry I do not fully understand.

Your system does not work, that I understand.

Are you telling us it is because your water cooler was to tight?

Or are you asking for assistance?

LiveOrDie
01-25-2014, 05:02 PM
I'm telling you it was because of the water block and also asking for any ideas so i can do the screws ill be trying springs 1st.

HiVizMan
01-25-2014, 05:06 PM
Ah right thank you.

The Corsair H100i is quite good for getting the pressure of the fitting spot on. Are you using the official LGA 2011 mounting kit?

Chino
01-25-2014, 05:16 PM
So i finally found the problem why my board would no longer boot it would just power on for a second then off in a loop, It seems to be the water block screws doing it if there loose it boots every time, I even tried doing them up a bit but got random resets in windows.
In the past, various users overtightened the mounting screws which would warp the motherboard causing the CPU not to make contact with the pins. One of the main symptoms is exactly what you describe.

LiveOrDie
01-25-2014, 07:09 PM
Like i said i didn't over tighten them i did them up till they wouldn't be loose, seems any think more than finger tight creates a problem.

PS its not a H100i i'm using a EK-FB ASUS M6I.

HalloweenWeed
01-26-2014, 04:02 PM
EVGA had the same prob W/CPU socket screws on the X58 line boards circa 2010. Tightening the screws too tight warps the board too much, possibly causing hairline fractures too. When the hairline fractures happen, it can break the board traces, but when conditions are just right the traces touch over the fracture, and it works - but it's no longer reliable. That said, there is no way for a normal person to check for these hairline fractures, so we have no way of knowing if that is the problem or if you merely are having the problem Chino detailed.

Theoretically speaking, if the board socket was overtightened to begin with, tightening the cooler could have caused the board to fracture; the "straw that broke the camel's back" so-to-speak. My RIVE had one screw a bit loose when shipped. I suggest you remove the cooler and carefully explore how tight the CPU socket screws were. GL.

Rockford
01-26-2014, 05:18 PM
yeah, too short waterblock spacers?m or too thick/hard pads?

The motherboard PCB should never, i say never bee warped, bent, after installing a mobo waterblock , not even the slightest. even with fully tighten screws

one of the keys with just a mobo waterblock (for it to work like it was meant to), is that the PCB is completely flat under the waterblock, otherwise the purpose with the block is gone.

Rockford
01-26-2014, 05:40 PM
I know that many blocks out there, even if the user follow the instructions, and using the supplied pads/washers and stuff, still gets the PCB bent, some more than others..

Its up to the customer, to fix i am afraid

EK's mosfet block for the Rampage X79, is no exception, its a bad fit out of the box/ with the supplied stuff in the box..

Arne Saknussemm
01-26-2014, 07:20 PM
seems any think more than finger tight creates a problem

You should never tighten anything more than finger tight.....it causes problems ;)

Rockford
01-26-2014, 08:52 PM
........

32880

LiveOrDie
01-27-2014, 02:46 AM
EVGA had the same prob W/CPU socket screws on the X58 line boards circa 2010. Tightening the screws too tight warps the board too much, possibly causing hairline fractures too. When the hairline fractures happen, it can break the board traces, but when conditions are just right the traces touch over the fracture, and it works - but it's no longer reliable. That said, there is no way for a normal person to check for these hairline fractures, so we have no way of knowing if that is the problem or if you merely are having the problem Chino detailed.

Theoretically speaking, if the board socket was overtightened to begin with, tightening the cooler could have caused the board to fracture; the "straw that broke the camel's back" so-to-speak. My RIVE had one screw a bit loose when shipped. I suggest you remove the cooler and carefully explore how tight the CPU socket screws were. GL.

As i had to change the back plate i had to take the socket screws out i did them up tight but around the same as they where when i removed it also the screws on the back plate for the block are finger tight at the moment and i haven't had any problems so far do you think i should remove it or just leave it, There's a lot of work to take it off like draining the hole loop.

From my understanding it wouldn't mater if the socket was tight barbecue the block would push the cpu down more past that of a overtightened socket?

kkn
01-27-2014, 08:21 AM
overtighten and it will not boot.
look in the manual that came whit the block.
on my amd i had to use a postit note on the spring so i would not over tighten.
i did use it between the gap on the springs, if it was stuck it was too mutch and i had to loosen it.
but that was amd.
if its the same whit you i dont know.
but on the intel block it stops ( bottom on the screw you tighten down the block whit ).

Arne Saknussemm
01-27-2014, 08:41 AM
LOL Paw! But the screw on the Arne2000 should only be finger tight...hehe :-)

LiveOrDie
01-27-2014, 11:07 AM
overtighten and it will not boot.
look in the manual that came whit the block.
on my amd i had to use a postit note on the spring so i would not over tighten.
i did use it between the gap on the springs, if it was stuck it was too mutch and i had to loosen it.
but that was amd.
if its the same whit you i dont know.
but on the intel block it stops ( bottom on the screw you tighten down the block whit ).

i followed the manual to a tee also had a few things missing which i had to guess.

HalloweenWeed
01-27-2014, 07:23 PM
As i had to change the back plate i had to take the socket screws out i did them up tight but around the same as they where when i removed it also the screws on the back plate for the block are finger tight at the moment and i haven't had any problems so far do you think i should remove it or just leave it, There's a lot of work to take it off like draining the hole loop.

From my understanding it wouldn't mater if the socket was tight barbecue the block would push the cpu down more past that of a overtightened socket?
I don't know. I was just thinking maybe you never checked your CPU socket screws, but you did. The thing is, if they were tightened to the point that the board cracked, they might not feel too tight after the damage was done; I just don't know. I was just throwing another possibility out there to keep in mind, since you already redid your screws.

LiveOrDie
01-29-2014, 09:55 AM
I dont think the boards crack but i think your on the right track even EK said i may have done them up to much which ends in the board circuits being compressed how tight should the socket screws be?

kkn
01-29-2014, 11:35 AM
start loosen up little by little until you can boot.
and then loosen it 1/4 turn.
then look at the cores and see how mutch diffrence the temps are ( 10C diffrence is no problem ).

LiveOrDie
01-29-2014, 04:37 PM
well i did them up then 1/4 of a turn just to lock them, I think the cpu wasn't balanced was on a slop because the thermal paste didn't spread flat.

kkn
01-30-2014, 09:09 AM
and its working now??
its not mutch termalpaste that have to aplied.
just a rice grain kinda surface.

LiveOrDie
01-30-2014, 12:23 PM
I dont know yet waiting on tubing as my stuff turned yellow, i covered the ihs with paste by hand this time around so i know its even.

LiveOrDie
02-06-2014, 03:01 PM
Just letting every one know it was indeed tight CPU socket screws creating my problem, shes up and running with the waterblock screws done up.