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Dreamonic
11-11-2015, 10:05 AM
Here is yet another intake mod of mine.

The other one I did was to my G75VW/VX which you can find here: https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?33681-Laptop-Intake-Mod


I had recently purchased a G751JY-DB72. The stock temps, CPU mostly AKA "Hotwell" did not leave a lot of headroom for prolonged gaming or benching. It would on occasion decide to thermal throttle which meant it was fluctuating from that 95C threshold. Okay, no problem, let's run XTU and undervolt (-83mV stable) and still not much of an improvement. Disabling Turbo Boost was the only way to drop the load temps to a respectable 77-81C and even then the performance drop I noticed in the Witcher 3 was just enough to force me to resolve this issue once and for all. The 980M at stock clocks reached nearly 84C and would hover around there. This meant modding my vBIOS to OV/OC further would leave me with very little thermal headroom too. So first things first, repaste!

After repasting (MX-4) the CPU load temps dropped from 95C to 83-85C and GPU load temps from 84C to 75-77C. That's pretty decent but once again though that whole heatsink assembly design where a heatpipe from the GPU spans across the CPU, Argh! During a couple hours of gaming, the temps would still reach numbers I wasn't comfortable seeing. So out come even more tools!

Since the VW/VX systems come with that additional set of fan grill covers, I thought what better time than now to use those.

Same tools I used for my G75 intake mod I used on the G751. The biggest problem I faced was the fan grill cover placement since the bottom of the G751 chassis has those raised portions where if looking on the top side, the CPU/GPU fans sit into it. I also noticed that the GPU and CPU fans are not symmetrically placed from each other like in the VW/VX. The G751 GPU fan sits further back in from the CPU fan. So now I'm thinking what to do here. After I removed the MB and got a better look into the empty chassis, I noticed I had barely any room to cut a hole without compromising a support standoff or footing holder. So out comes the digital caliper.

I decided the best place to put the holes was right at the widest part of those raised portions of the chassis just missing the footings and supports from inside.

I then applied the same glue, black auto touch-up paint and rubber o-rings to finish it off.

The difference now? The CPU doesn't even reach 75C and GPU is around 66-70C after being overvolted +125mV and overclocked to 1400 core 6000 mem. I am very satisfied with the results!

LINK (http://voltground.com/haven/threads/8/)

HulkSmash
11-11-2015, 03:22 PM
Looks awesome! Almost looks like a stock component! Good job man! Must be a pain to clean those fans without the removable covers though...I'll be doing a repaste on mine soon, anything I should be aware of? The G75 I had was a breeze to do, anything different here?

Clintlgm
11-11-2015, 04:49 PM
Very Cool!

ZIXEL
11-11-2015, 05:58 PM
that is so cool

Corporal
11-11-2015, 06:36 PM
I'd do that too, but I'm worried that other components like RAM and parts of the motherboard not connected to the heatsink won't get enough airflow like they get now.

aeolisio
11-11-2015, 06:45 PM
I'd do that too, but I'm worried that other components like RAM and parts of the motherboard not connected to the heatsink won't get enough airflow like they get now.
Correct he just robbed other important hardware of the airflow path that the g751 was designed around. As someone who has externally probe tested each component and run airflow tests with a smoke machine he has most likely done more harm then good not to mention voided all warranty for a few degrees. Would not have been my choice but congrats on modding it cleanly.

Dreamonic
11-11-2015, 07:32 PM
Looks awesome! Almost looks like a stock component! Good job man! Must be a pain to clean those fans without the removable covers though...I'll be doing a repaste on mine soon, anything I should be aware of? The G75 I had was a breeze to do, anything different here?


Thanks.

It's very similar in procedure to gain access to the MB as the G75 was, except this just has few more screws (MB itself) and less ribbon cables to deal with. Similarly with the G750, the power (AC) board removal step is the same here. One thing I will mention is be very careful when inserting the battery to MB connector back in as the pins are very fragile there, so no forcing it in on any angle or you risk bending or worse, breaking the pins off. If any of that happens you'll lose power to your entire system, even if it is plugged in. It is unlikely to happen (I've only heard of one so far) but that's where all awareness (caution) should be directed, is on that one connector. That's it!

Good luck with your disassemble.

Dreamonic
11-11-2015, 07:39 PM
Correct he just robbed other important hardware of the airflow path that the g751 was designed around. As someone who has externally probe tested each component and run airflow tests with a smoke machine he has most likely done more harm then good not to mention voided all warranty for a few degrees. Would not have been my choice but congrats on modding it cleanly.


If there were issues regarding passive cooling around on or near other components, my VX going over 2 years strong the same way would have shown signs of malfunctioning or overheating (look at phones, tablets, some have no heatsink, obviously no fan, passive cooling) same thing applies here. No issues. YES, they do have better power and thermal management in those devices, not to mention different architecture but they ALWAYS are having to throttle clocks to lower temps and power with use and without. Similar controls are in place for the other components in notebooks too. PLUS, I only intend on keeping notebooks for a few years so if they're lasting that long like this, then good enough. No need to be an e-hoarder ;)

Regarding warranty, I never intend to use it, ever. I'd rather have a competent individual such as myself to disassemble and reassemble my purchase than someone who doesn't give two ****s about my system. Not to mention down time and process and ordeal that RMAs can create, while still not rectifying the problem should there have been one. I can do this myself.

This wasn't just a few degrees, but a game changing difference in running max performance.

I'm not new to the block and I'll pay to play. I accept it.

Thanks for the feedback and your opinion nonetheless.

AQUASTEVAE
01-27-2016, 07:58 PM
If there were issues regarding passive cooling around on or near other components, my VX going over 2 years strong the same way would have shown signs of malfunctioning or overheating (look at phones, tablets, some have no heatsink, obviously no fan, passive cooling) same thing applies here. No issues. YES, they do have better power and thermal management in those devices, not to mention different architecture but they ALWAYS are having to throttle clocks to lower temps and power with use and without. Similar controls are in place for the other components in notebooks too. PLUS, I only intend on keeping notebooks for a few years so if they're lasting that long like this, then good enough. No need to be an e-hoarder ;)

Regarding warranty, I never intend to use it, ever. I'd rather have a competent individual such as myself to disassemble and reassemble my purchase than someone who doesn't give two ****s about my system. Not to mention down time and process and ordeal that RMAs can create, while still not rectifying the problem should there have been one. I can do this myself.

This wasn't just a few degrees, but a game changing difference in running max performance.

I'm not new to the block and I'll pay to play. I accept it.

Thanks for the feedback and your opinion nonetheless.

just curious what you mean by "game changing" difference???

Dreamonic
01-27-2016, 09:05 PM
I no longer had FPS spikes when the CPU thermal throttled because of it running cooler with the intake mod. That's the game changing difference.

isko
01-28-2016, 12:21 PM
You overclocked from 1400 to 6000??? How much is the difference in FPS before and after overclocking? :)

Jlieu
01-28-2016, 01:31 PM
You overclocked from 1400 to 6000??? How much is the difference in FPS before and after overclocking? :)

Its 1400Mhz Core, 6000Mhz memory.

Amazing mods anyway. Clean and tidy.

Gps3dx
01-28-2016, 02:51 PM
Here is yet another intake mod of mine.

The other one I did was to my G75VW/VX which you can find here: https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?33681-Laptop-Intake-Mod


WOW.... job well done my friend.

diogogmaio
01-28-2016, 04:36 PM
Very nice really...i did my own for g75vx but i am still waiting to do it in my asus g751jy...
One more year and I will do it...
So far a modified VBIOS is enough to play ULTRA in every single game...that's good for me...
And also my temps never crossed the "mythic" 80 degrees barrier...
All thanks to the creator of this thread :D

caradum
07-29-2017, 06:48 PM
I solve my G771JW thermal throttling problem. Change my thermal compound with MX-4 and i gave two holes, as you can see in the photos attached.

Darnassus
07-29-2017, 07:24 PM
Would've loved some before and after temperatures.. :c

Funny enough the G752 has this mod built in pretty much.. ;d

caradum
07-29-2017, 08:30 PM
Sorry, i didn't take any ss before. Temps are aroung 50 - 55 C idle
85 C after first min of stres test.

Can't play anything before, because of thermal throttling.
The results are great after this mod :cool:

Gps3dx
07-30-2017, 12:01 AM
I no longer had FPS spikes when the CPU thermal throttled because of it running cooler with the intake mod. That's the game changing difference.
@Dreamonic, m8, few questions I would appreciate your help:

Which tube in grams I should buy if one wants to repaste both CPU, GPU and any extra heatsinks ?
how much do I should paste each component ? how to apply ? ( small dot and let it spread by itself or should I the one to spread it ?
why did you choose the grill entry point beneath the fans and not near the cpu/gpu so that cool air could flow over them as well ?
twhat's the grill's diameter "sticking out" of the back ?
ebay/aliexpress, I cannot find the G75 grill... so I need to improvise - any ideas ?
got your G7541JT-Gsync vBIOS from your forum - thanks. I only managed to O/C the Gpu's core clock to +175.
Higher then that and I get non-playable screen ( full brown then black screen ) while running games.
is there anything I can do to get higher but stable GPU core OC ?
My current O/C settings using "ASUS GPU TweakII" is core +170 ( to 1208MHz), memory +800(to 5810MHz), min voltage +75 ( to 1106mV)

Thanks.

P.S, in your flashing guide for maxwell (http://voltground.com/haven/threads/3/#post-28) you wrote to flash using nvflash with the "-5" switch... there isn't one at all using the guide's nvflash v5.199, i.e can't use that switch since it isn't supported, so using only "-6" not "-5 -6" works.
and while getting the guide's NVFlash v5.218 - the zip is corrupt...but I managed to flash using v5.199 and only with "-6" switch as I stated.

Dreamonic
07-30-2017, 12:52 AM
To answer your questions Gps3dx:

1. Grizzly Conductonaut 5g / Grizzly Kryonaut 11.1g / Gelid GC-Extreme 3.5g (x2) / ARCTIC MX-4 20g
2. The right amount is determined by the gap between the heatsink assembly, components and die; small dot and spread. I recommend using cheaper thermal compound to address any uneven core temperatures before applying the expensive Grizzly Conductonaut. As adjustments to the heatsink assembly and or mounting points may be necessary.
3. In my testings, openings below the fans with the rear of the notebook elevated resulted in lowering thermals effectively. You must also realize what you quoted was in regards with CPU @4Ghz on all 4-cores and GPU overclocked 1470/6010 @ 1250mV (going forward). Intake mod was required to achieve no performance loss due to thermal throttling.
4. Are you referring to the o-ring?
5. If no listings right now, just keep your eyes open and check back frequently. They sell quick! Or use expanded metal.
6. Did you increase voltage at all when you were unstable at +175 core?

Regarding the end, you were reading Kepler guide and not Maxwell. I do not have "-5" switch listed there. And the zip might be corrupt on your side as it was tested by more than a few people today already with success.

Thanks


I just seen your edit Gps3dx. To answer that, just OC core until you're unstable, then increase voltage to stabilize it and go from there. After you find your max core overclock with an overvolt, then start to OC memory.

Dreamonic
07-30-2017, 12:57 AM
I solve my G771JW thermal throttling problem. Change my thermal compound with MX-4 and i gave two holes, as you can see in the photos attached.

Nicely done!

Gps3dx
07-30-2017, 02:14 AM
To answer your questions Gps3dx:

1. Grizzly Conductonaut 5g / Grizzly Kryonaut 11.1g / Gelid GC-Extreme 3.5g (x2) / ARCTIC MX-4 20g
A. Set price aside, what's your recommendation ?
B. what's the MINIMAL weight of thermal past I should have to paste one time +- fixing errors.. ? you stated weights betweeen 5-20g...
2. The right amount is determined by the gap between the heatsink assembly, components and die; small dot and spread. I recommend using cheaper thermal compound to address any uneven core temperatures before applying the expensive Grizzly Conductonaut. As adjustments to the heatsink assembly and or mounting points may be necessary. is it advisable to paste 2 types of thermal paste in the same place ? or your mean that it is advisable to paste cpu/gpu/vram with expensive paste and the rest of the heat-sink ( the non "expensive"/delicate HW ) to paste with the cheap ?
3. In my testings, openings below the fans with the rear of the notebook elevated resulted in lowering thermals effectively. You must also realize what you quoted was in regards with CPU @4Ghz on all 4-cores and GPU overclocked 1470/6010 @ 1250mV (going forward). Intake mod was required to achieve no performance loss due to thermal throttling. wow... nice.
4. Are you referring to the o-ring? yes, what's the inner mesh and the outer plastic ring cover diameter ?
5. If no listings right now, just keep your eyes open and check back frequently. They sell quick! Or use expanded metal. I found that speakers grill may be good as well. HERE are 4.5cm diameter, and cheap (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/GHXAMP-2PCS-2-inch-Black-Car-Speaker-Grill-Mesh-Enclosure-Net-Protective-Cover-DIY-Speaker-Accessories/32821356336.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb 201602_2_10152_10065_10151_10068_10130_9986_10084_ 10083_10119_10080_10307_10082_10081_10110_10178_10 137_10111_10060_10112_10113_10155_10114_10154_1005 6_10055_10054_10310_5370015_10312_10059_100031_100 99_10078_10079_10103_10073_10102_10120_10052_10053 _10142_10107_10050_10051-9986_10120,searchweb201603_16,ppcSwitch_5&btsid=6302d6cd-b48e-462f-9332-658a1d953972&algo_expid=c1f34838-c5d4-4bbe-8e8d-eab7240966e8-21&algo_pvid=c1f34838-c5d4-4bbe-8e8d-eab7240966e8). I plan on using only the inner mesh grill of course.
6. Did you increase voltage at all when you were unstable at +175 core? yep, +75.. question is, what's max overvoltage that is safe for 970m ?

Regarding the end, you were reading Kepler guide and not Maxwell. I do not have "-5" switch listed there. And the zip might be corrupt on your side as it was tested by more than a few people today already with success. you're right, my bad. i've redownloaded and it's fine.

Thanks


I just seen your edit Gps3dx. To answer that, just OC core until you're unstable, then increase voltage to stabilize it and go from there. After you find your max core overclock with an overvolt, then start to OC memory.

My remarks are in red
thanks :-)

Dreamonic
07-30-2017, 02:45 AM
1-A. I personally use MX-4 for GPU VRM and VRAM and then apply Grizzly Conductonaut on the GPU and CPU die.
1-B. This completely depends on the thermal compound you buy as some are thicker in viscosity over others, so your coverage will vary as well. Absolute minimum for trial and error runs with repasting between, I found to be 4g (excluding Conductonaut).

2. It's best to establish base results first, taking note on current thermals at load and the condition of your factory or current TIM once you take off your heatsink assembly. Usually is best to do a trial repaste with some cheaper compound like MX-4, so you can still see good results but receive enough data to know whether you've applied way too much, not enough or that the heatsink assembly is resting uneven. As mentioned in 1-A regarding where to apply what. This is just how I go about repasting and have not had any issues. It's personal preference really.

3. Indeed.
4. 1/8".
5. Nice find! Those will work too.
6. Stay below 1200mV or you'll find black screening to occur quite frequently. As long as thermals are controlled and your battery doesn't drain completely while using a high OC/OV, especially for certain applications, then it's fine. I've only really seen a 660M from a G75VW blow MOSFETs with a high overvolt due to thermals being the cause due to lack of cooling maintenance. You can read about this here (http://voltground.com/haven/threads/114/#post-658).

End. No problem.

Gps3dx
07-30-2017, 05:09 AM
1-A. I personally use MX-4 for GPU VRM and VRAM and then apply Grizzly Conductonaut on the GPU and CPU die.
1-B. This completely depends on the thermal compound you buy as some are thicker in viscosity over others, so your coverage will vary as well. Absolute minimum for trial and error runs with repasting between, I found to be 4g (excluding Conductonaut).

2. It's best to establish base results first, taking note on current thermals at load and the condition of your factory or current TIM once you take off your heatsink assembly. Usually is best to do a trial repaste with some cheaper compound like MX-4, so you can still see good results but receive enough data to know whether you've applied way too much, not enough or that the heatsink assembly is resting uneven. As mentioned in 1-A regarding where to apply what. This is just how I go about repasting and have not had any issues. It's personal preference really.

3. Indeed.
4. 1/8".
5. Nice find! Those will work too.
6. Stay below 1200mV or you'll find black screening to occur quite frequently. As long as thermals are controlled and your battery doesn't drain completely while using a high OC/OV, especially for certain applications, then it's fine. I've only really seen a 660M from a G75VW blow MOSFETs with a high overvolt due to thermals being the cause due to lack of cooling maintenance. You can read about this here (http://voltground.com/haven/threads/114/#post-658).

End. No problem.

So i've just ordered Arctic MX-4 (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Original-ARCTIC-MX-4-20g-8g-4g-2g-8-5W-MK-CPU-Thermal-Compound-Grease-pads/32817575624.html) and pair of speakers grills (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LEORY-2pcs-66mm-Decorative-2-inch-Tweeter-Audio-Speaker-Cover-Circle-Mesh-Grille-Covers-Trim-for/32822079395.html) which are even cheaper then $2 and less then 5.6cm diameter (https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1jpGESXXXXXbtaXXXq6xXFXXXf/LEORY-2pcs-66mm-Decorative-2-inch-Tweeter-Audio-Speaker-Cover-Circle-Mesh-Grille-Covers-Trim-for.jpg) ( so it should be around 5.4-5.5cm at the inner/bumped circle ).
I guess I should be happy that I've purchased a dremel 4 months ago... it should come in handy for this work.
more Q:

know there any methodic PHOTOGRAPHED tear-down guide for G751JY/T ? can you please share a link ?
any recommendation on the tear-down process ? what I should put extra attention while tear-down ? is there anything to avoid ?
How did you paste the grill to the laptop base ? what kind of paste ?
In retrospect, after ~2 years of working with modded G751... Do you think that adding extra filter onto that metal mesh ( to avoid dust ) is a smart move ?
does passing with vaccum cleaner enough to clean any dust from that mesh ( so that adding extra filter will only make air passing harder, having no added value at all ).

P.S - thanks for the O.C tips... I finally managed to OC my core clock past the extra +175 to ~300... this happened only after I added ~+112mV to min Voltage.
I don't want to go beyond this at this point, till after i'll perform the fan mod. ( I already get to the GPU's 89C limit with these settings ).

NeoBeum
07-31-2017, 01:30 AM
Where could I get my hands on the fan shields?

Gps3dx
07-31-2017, 02:44 AM
Where could I get my hands on the fan shields?
my last post... comon...

escha
09-30-2017, 08:38 AM
Very nice mod!
But i play too much actually on my laps so here is my intake mod ;)
A little harder to make. Outer black plastic you can cut out as much as possible. Just leave about 1mm offset to have something to glue grill to. After some thought I could actually cut a bit more then it is on pics. Inner plastics are more tricky, watch out for screws' places and other reinforcements ;)
I went with a dremel but this plastic doesn't go well with high speed tools. Probably would be easier and cleaner cut just by drilling out series of holes...

Grill is designed for a very tight fit, cut out off 0.5 mm thick aluminium with cnc mill. Painted them black then cleaned it off for natural aluminium color, but i think I'll paint them black again... think will fit the laps color scheme better.
A few pics:
67797
67798
67799
67800

Gps3dx
10-21-2017, 01:09 PM
1-A. I personally use MX-4 for GPU VRM and VRAM and then apply Grizzly Conductonaut on the GPU and CPU die.
1-B. This completely depends on the thermal compound you buy as some are thicker in viscosity over others, so your coverage will vary as well. Absolute minimum for trial and error runs with repasting between, I found to be 4g (excluding Conductonaut).
Finally, after ~7 hours of disassembly, cleaning, drilling, re-pasting with thermal paste and reassembly - the cooing mod was DONE.


preliminary temps while browsing are 15-20 C LESS then was before ( now 45-55, before 55-65 ) & in-gaming as well ( now 65-75, before 85-93 ).


I've connected the metallic meshes from the outside of the laptop cover.
CONS - the mesh are a bit higher in comparison to the laptop's back legs, so the laptop weight now sits ontop of the meshes instead.
PRO - I can easily disconnect it and clean the fans.
Since I use laptop stand ( which contains even more fans ) I don't care about it, cause there's a step that the back of the laptop stand on it, allowing the air to pass in just OK - so no need to alter/extend the legs.


P.S - Haven't used any thermal pads, only MX-4...Hope it's enough... so far everything stable, even with O/C on GPU and CPU.

other notes after performing that mod:
I got sound cracking ( so I guess I need to reconnect the speakers while windows is booted ).
UPDATE: it seems i've screw the rear speaker cable - so soldering work is needed... waiting for a 2mm 4-pin connector to arrive for that.
the cracking sound happens only when the cable is connected to the speakers, but since 2/4 sub-cables are damaged, cracking happens.
99% of the time I use external audio anyway, so that's not an issue for me.
thus, PAY ATTENTION WHEN YOU REASSEMBLE, THAT NO CABLE SHOULD BE BENEATH A SCREW HOLE.

UPDATE: to fix the broken speakers cable I purchased 1.25mm (JST) 4-pin connector (female) with cable attached. (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Mini-Micro-1-25mm-JST-T-1-4-Pin-Connector-with-Wire-x-10-sets-ThZ/32832232281.html)
The rear cover that houses the speakers is the female side, while the mobo is the male.

https://photos-5.dropbox.com/t/2/AACil4zZZyd-RKW0IjZS68lz1AzekWrfct1UiFtyFLiUew/12/64466454/jpeg/32x32/1/_/1/2/G751JT_Cooling_MOD.jpg/EKWsgDIYhQsgAigC/BI9dC2b-sSgAvXf7k7HcwVch_zlRMfjkhWBNtyCEPRA%2CcDJSyBXF6z40 aclJ6QT5GHl0Mwuarlt6MUexSocqXZ8?size=800x600&size_mode=3

Gps3dx
01-13-2020, 01:37 PM
Finally, after ~7 hours of disassembly, cleaning, drilling, re-pasting with thermal paste and reassembly - the cooing mod was DONE.
preliminary temps while browsing are 15-20 C LESS then was before ( now 45-55, before 55-65 ) & in-gaming as well ( now 65-75, before 85-93 ).
Yesterday I re-performed complete disassembly, cleaning and re-pasting GPU, CPU etc...
Temps dropped from ~60-65C @idle to 45-50C... while gaming dropped from 80C to around 70C - which is pretty consistent with my report from 2 years ago, the last time I made such cleaning & re-pasting procedure.

IMHO what led to the high temps, beside using the same thermal paste for 2 years, is the massive amount of "fur-ball" dust that been aggregated between the fan output and the heatsink's inner face "grill" which was almost completely obstructed.
Having the option to access the fan by the intake mod might be nice for weekly cleanup and air-flow...but eventually dust gets aggregated in bulks at the heatsink's grill - forcing a complete teardown to be able to clean it.