How to Replace G751JY AC Power Jack Port ?

So. After too many hours troubleshooting, a new battery and some tears I believe I have found the culprit of my problems. The AC IN Jack. Today my G751JY-T7373H didnt recognize the AC charger anymore, so I have no choice but to fix it. I took the laptop appart to see if I could see any clear damage to the ac jack, but it looked brand new, but it still doesnt work.

So I was wondering if anybody here have any experience with replacing the ac jack themselves. I wonder about:

1. Do I need to buy the mini-board? Like this. . Or is it enough to buy just the actual port? Like this.
2. How do I know what of the models I need? There are so many and I dont wanna waste more time getting the wrong model.

Regards a sad ROG owner.

I think I would get the card, the price is right and the port is already connected and secured, looks like a drop in part? I'm not sure that the card will have the actual charging modular built into it or it that is another part on the Motherboard.
It looks to me that the socket only would take some work to get is totally stabilized on the card unless its a solder on?

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Originally Posted by Clintlgm

I think I would get the card, the price is right and the port is already connected and secured, looks like a drop in part? I'm not sure that the card will have the actual charging modular built into it or it that is another part on the Motherboard.
It looks to me that the socket only would take some work to get is totally stabilized on the card unless its a solder on?

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Thanks for your reply. Yeah its easy to insert the card, its a drop in part, if I understand the terminology correctly. I really dont know if its a solder on or not.

I tested the AC charger, and its working perfectly. So it has to be the AC jac in. I just got to find out what model to buy.

Thanks again.

You can use a DMM to test electrical properties of the jack itself, the charging PCB, the AC adapter, the battery, the wires in between them all. The jack is the last thing you want to replace unless you really like doing solder rework, while the other pieces/modules each cost money to replace.

I wouldn't order any replacement parts (or do any soldering) until I knew exactly which part has failed.

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Originally Posted by Korth

You can use a DMM to test electrical properties of the jack itself, the charging PCB, the AC adapter, the battery, the wires in between them all. The jack is the last thing you want to replace unless you really like doing solder rework, while the other pieces/modules each cost money to replace.

I wouldn't order any replacement parts (or do any soldering) until I knew exactly which part has failed.

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Thanks alot Korth, i really appreciate your answer. How would I test the jack in with a DMM? How can I see if its working or not?

I think if I buy the miniboard with the jack in it doesnt require any soldering?

Regards

Edit: Here is the part that is broken: https://imgur.com/a/3Nuf3

Your link looked good to me, there is asus part dealer in EU Goggle them up they might be helpful.
your probably correct that its the AC socket there have been many failures here in the ROG forums. Still there is a Charging circuit on the motherboard that could be the problem also. Just something to think of.

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Originally Posted by ufotheswe

How would I test the jack in with a DMM? How can I see if its working or not?

I think if I buy the miniboard with the jack in it doesnt require any soldering?

Edit: Here is the part that is broken: https://imgur.com/a/3Nuf3

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That's an easy part (board) to test, especially if you have it out of circuit (removed from the laptop).

Just put the DMM in resistance/continuity test mode and see if the electrical circuit actually works between the input side (where you plug the jack in) and the output side (where it's soldered to PCB), for both power and ground pins. If the part isn't conducting then it's a dead part.

Put the DMM in DCV test mode and measure if your AC adapter is outputting DC voltage (at the jack). If no DC power then the adapter (or wires or wall receptacle) is dead.
If the adapter/etc works then measure if the output side on the PCB part is receiving voltage when plugged into the AC adapter. If no DC power then the PCB part is dead.

The whole point of using a test instrument is to figure out where an electrical source you know is good (at the AC wall receptacle) is interrupted before it can power the laptop. So you know which part has failed and needs repair/replacement.

I'd get the whole module.. saves you the soldering job.

Just make sure its sex is correct.. back with the G750's you could get models that have internal male. (Ones with a pin inside of the laptop) And internal female. (Pin inside the charging cord)

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Originally Posted by Darnassus

I'd get the whole module.. saves you the soldering job.

Just make sure its sex is correct.. back with the G750's you could get models that have internal male. (Ones with a pin inside of the laptop) And internal female. (Pin inside the charging cord)

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I saw that too.

The power cord of the G751JT have a centre pin inside. Those EBay jacks are all wrong!

Hello, I have the same problem. Finally, how did you fix it? I´ve been looking but i don´t find the on board model for the G750JY.

Hello again.

Finally I was able to fix it, looking and asking i found this replacement in Ebay "NEW DC POWER JACK BOARD FOR ASUS G750 G750JZ-XS72 G750JZ-17FA G750JZ-QB71" the seller is named EXCELI INFORMATIQUE.

I could install it by myself. My laptop model is G750JY, but when I disassembled it, the DC IN board was labeled G750JZ, so the new one is 100% compatible. Thanks also to youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UBoqntue4Kk full tutorial for disassembling. Ebay seller is based in France so it only took 5 five days to deliver to Spain by normal post.

I hope this helps to other with the same problem.

Thanks,

Well done. ;x

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Originally Posted by agmvc5

Hello again.

Finally I was able to fix it, looking and asking i found this replacement in Ebay "NEW DC POWER JACK BOARD FOR ASUS G750 G750JZ-XS72 G750JZ-17FA G750JZ-QB71" the seller is named EXCELI INFORMATIQUE.

I could install it by myself. My laptop model is G750JY, but when I disassembled it, the DC IN board was labeled G750JZ, so the new one is 100% compatible. Thanks also to youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UBoqntue4Kk full tutorial for disassembling. Ebay seller is based in France so it only took 5 five days to deliver to Spain by normal post.

I hope this helps to other with the same problem.

Thanks,

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Hey, this is OP :) Did this fix work until today? Im thinking about getting a board from that ebay seller, I think I have found the correct board for around 100 EUR... But I dont even know if this will really fix it...

Hi, I have replaced entire DC power board in my G751jy and it was working OK but for about 1 year. Definitely much shorter time then expected. And it was original ASUS spare part. I still have the old part too.

However I have the advice for you to rescue the port if you have some manual skills (without any soldering and replacing required):

The problem are connections inside the port itself. They have a design flaw. If you can see inside the port itself with the magnifying glass and strong light... There are 6 small metal plates around the inner circle (3 at the left side and 3 at the right side) - they suppose to contact external surface of the power plug... And there are 2 more metal plates at top and bottom sides of the middle round plastic (the one with the pin hole) - they suppose to contact the internal surface of the plug, plus the pin in the hole. All 8 metal plugs should be resilient. And they are in a brand new port.

The problem is, that heavy CPU/GPU demanding games require high power DC in... But over time the connections between the metal plates and the plug are simply loosing up little bit but very persistently. This produces the additional heat at the connections / metal plates.
This additional heat impacts all the metal plates inside the plug... They just start to be more flat faster and faster due to hotter and hotter temps... They are no more resilient so they do not contact well. Some of them are even pushed inside their holes and do not contact the plug at all. All these makes the situation that port CAN'T transfer enough power to the main board... It's not enough that only few metal plates are working ok.

So what can you do?

Just take some long and strong needle and try to bend out the metal plates again in their correct positions. They should stick out little bit "above" the diameter of the port surfaces. And I mean ALL those 6 + 2 plates.
If after this procedure you are NOT able to insert the plug into the port - DO NOT push the plug with any stronger force or you will PUSH metal plates inside the holes and it will be difficult to put them back in correct positions again. This difficulty only means that you have bent the plates little bit too much... just make them little bit more flat again and try again to insert the plug. It should insert now without any major force but now it should connect OK. Good luck and be very careful with this job.

I have done this 3 days ago with my G751JY.

See the picture below -this is my old spare part board where I was practicing:
Attachment 87396

Wow this is very exciting. I will try this tomorrow. Is it possible to this while the laptop is assembled, or should i take it out ?

Very very excited to try this ! :D

No need to take it out. I have done it without extracting this port/board.
I was sure to do like this since first I practiced with my old spare DC board you see at the picture above.
Just do not shortcut anything = work with one plate and do not touch the other. You need the strong needle that does not bend.

By the way, it was Cyberpunk 2077 that forced me to fix again my DC power port... since it was overheating too much and I was experiencing switching to "on battery" few times per hour due to high power need that port was not able to provide. Now all OK.

P.S.
My advice for the future. When shutting down the laptop, remove the power plug so the metal plates will have time to return to the default resilient positions. Believe me... when I was replacing DC board 1 ear ago, the plug was fitting tight only with the new DC board/port. But I kept the old DC board. When I dig it out after 1 year to test it... I have noticed that the older DC board was tight again, but the current one was not tight at all. However both had few plates flat. So the situation with my DC boards had turned around with respect to tightness of connection with the plug. However now (after bending) both are equally tight again. I was having my DC plug connected 24/365 = all the time. I will change that habit now.

P.S.2
Be sure to bend the plates symmetrically - same amount at all sides.
For the top and bottom plates you will need two needles. One to press/hold the metal plate end facing you... and the second to bend it in the middle.

Important update - 2 more metal plates inside and they are quite difficult to bend, but possible. If they pop-up from holdings, still can be pushed back.

Also there are 2 miro metal plates inside the pin hole. But it is completely impossible to me to bend them (if needed). Those pin plates should be left untouched I think.

Attachment 87401

This is so good. Im very exited to try it out, but I am afraid I'm not gonna do it corectly. Could i get your discord so i can talk to you while im doing it? :)

my discord is: Sigurd#9263

Regards

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ufotheswe

This is so good. Im very exited to try it out, but I am afraid I'm not gonna do it corectly. Could i get your discord so i can talk to you while im doing it? :)

my discord is: Sigurd#9263

Regards

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Hi, this is not rocket science. You should succeed. Just use some big / strong needle. Good luck. :)

Haha, thank you bro :) I tried and it didnt really work the way i hoped... The laptop wouldn't recocnize my charger. So I was plaiying around with the DC, putting it in and out, slowly trying to find a sweet spot... and then! All of a sudden i found a sweet spot and it started to charge (orange light) - so I tried to boot the PC, and then lights went out and it didnt charge anymore. .. I did this a few times.. tried to find the sweet spot, and let it charge up a little.. But when i booted the laptop, it would turn off.. Oh, well i thougnt, ill have 1 hour of gaming on the battery, then ill charge again.. So I played Sea of Thieves, and it turned itself off after a few minutes. BUT lo' and behold, the light had turned green, and its still green! Two days later its working, the light is green, its connecting well and i can play (on the lowest graphics with low resolution)..

Let the saga continue :D ..

Thanks again Sanctrum, I dont know if it helped, but it made me mess around some around now I got to use it for a few days :)

Indeed the saga continues... :D

So, without farther introductions I have to admit that manual bending of metal plates inside the port is very short time solution and is only prolonging the final death of DC IN board for approx 3-4 weeks.
Mine old spare part board with much tighter port (get tighter over time when left alone disassembled) when put back into G751jy made things worse.
Mine newer/current DC IN board... kept degrading despite of manual bending of connectors :(

So there are three possibilities now: DC IN port must be replaced... or entire DC board must be replaced... or... the worst case scenario: the speeded-up degradation of DC IN port/board is caused by some small shortcut in the main board circuits= to much Ampers.

So I have purchased new DC in port and the Hot Air station to resolder the new port into mine spare DC IN board... Waiting for the delivery... The time will tell. :)

Update - Full success.

It took me a while, since they have sent me the wrong model of hot air soldering station... So I had to wait for re-delivery of the correct one (it was not expensive: 260 PLN = 70$). But now my laptop is fully functional again.

I had the old DC in board with damaged DC in jack port as a spare part. I have bought some new ports for just 9 PLN = 2.5$ a piece. Desoldered the old one (had to use 420C hot air temp to desolder it correctly), cleaned the metal pads on the board... and soldered in the new port.
Replaced the board in the laptop with the old one but now fixed... And 100% success.

Actually I was 1:1 copying this video of some Russian guy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qzv8jtwBva4

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So it is really the problem with the port itself... or just with the cold solder in the original DC in board with the port connectors...

What is more... I also fixed the same way the DC board removed from the laptop = the newer one that started to malfunction too. So now I have fully working laptop and a fixed spare part for the future.
So with the total cost of 75$ I have fixed two DC in boards... And saved 99$-75$ = 24$ (or 198$-75$=123$ if counting two boards) since the "brand" new DC in board costs 99$.