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  1. #1
    ROG Enthusiast Array gridironcpj PC Specs
    gridironcpj PC Specs
    MotherboardRampage VI Extreme Omega
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    Memory (part number)Trident Z RGB 4000 CL16 32GB
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    2080 Ti Strix owners: Beware of Bitspower Strix block

    I purchased a block designed for the 2080 Ti Strix (it's also compatible with the 2080 Strix) from Bitspower and it seems to have some sort of design flaw, as my temperatures are very bad given my loop configuration.

    Loop order is as follows: Reservoir -> D5 pump -> D5 pump -> BP Strix block -> EK Supremacy Evo -> 480mm rad -> 480mm rad

    Note that the radiators are both Black Ice Nemesis 480 GTXs, which are among the best radiators out there. The two D5s are overkill for this setup, but they were used when I had a 420mm rad also in the loop (will go back in shortly). For the test I'm running the rad fans at 100 percent (2000 RPM) and the pumps at 100 percent. The GPU is not manually overclocked for this test and all sliders (power and voltage) are left at stock settings.

    Stress test used: Unigine Heaven max settings at 720p (so I could see hwmonitor on the same screen)
    Fluid temp at idle: 24C
    GPU temp at idle: 27C
    Steady state fluid temp at full GPU load: 26C
    Max GPU temp at full load: 43C

    With a more realistic fan speed of 800RPM, the full load max temp for the GPU is 48C. With a mild overclock, over 50C is observed. Also note that some stress tests will push the GPU further, such as TimeSpy. The TimeSpy stress test saw a peak of 50C at stock settings, 800RPM on the rad fans.

    I have re-applied the thermal paste 3 times (Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut) and the thermal pads are placed exactly as shown in the instructions. My Titan X Pascal with an EK block in the same loop doesn't even pass 31C in the same exact scenaro while overclocked to the max and with a shunt mod.

    In conclusion, I think there is something off about Bitspower's block for this card. The block for the reference 2080 Ti does not appear to suffer the same issue, as suggested by a few people at OCN. My recommendation is to stay away from this block unless the aesthetics are worth more than cooling potential.
    Last edited by gridironcpj; 11-21-2018 at 08:41 AM.

  2. #2
    ROG Guru: Brown Belt Array Vlada011 PC Specs
    Vlada011 PC Specs
    MotherboardRampage V E10 (BIOS 1903)
    ProcessorIntel®i7-5820K (4.5GHz 1.325V)
    Memory (part number)CMD16GX4M4A2666C15
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    I only could say your temperatures are great. Below 55C for full cover block are good temperatures.
    I don't believe GPU could work 31C. That's mistake. Maybe if you play game with 200 fps and VSync on and GPU work with 20% power.
    But full load no way below 45C. That's impossible, simply 25C water can't prevent Graphic processors to stay on 35C., 45c reach even before heat transfer start and from loop depend how much will rise, 5c or 15c. 31C full load, that's not possible.. Maybe on 0C , benchmark in Canadian wood.



    Guys my recommendation for everyone is to stop to buy watercooling craps.
    Leading company, and same as ROG in Motherboard section is Watercool.de Heatkiller.
    They are best quality and finaly this year they made waterblocks for ASUS RTX2080Ti Strix.
    I'm so sad because they have no block for GTX1080Ti Strix I would bought instantly, now.

    But Poseidon and Strix Pascal have enough advantage over FE and I don't want to replace Poseidon for much lower clock only because Heatkiller IV block.

    Up to Early Spring 2019 all my watercooling parts will be replace to Heatkiller-Black Ice Nemesis and Koolance fittings.
    One by one. First radiators Black Ice Nemesis, than Heatkiller 150 Tube for D5, than fittings and at the end Heatkiller IV PRO Black Copper CPU Block.


    Watercooling parts change last 3-4 years so much in negative direction and become show room parts to install once and later to be replaced with new for new platform. Only important things become RGB and damn hard tubings and quality of parts is lower and lower. No I don't want that, i like more old school parts, Swiftech, Koolance, Watercool de on first place and when you open CPU block for 12 months and clean with brush he is line new. Watercooling RIG don't need to have hard tubes to look amazing, don't need colorfull colant, don't need RGB. But that become priority for some brands.

    And for end I will find Swiftech D5 MCP655 non PWM with speed controler from before 2009, they start to sell them 2006 and 2009 Lowara bought them, version before that are original made by Laing and because of them Switech MCP655 become so popular.
    Last edited by Vlada011; 11-21-2018 at 04:22 PM.


  3. #3
    ROG Junior Member Array
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    The hell. Those are some of the better temps for watercooled 2080tis out there. What are you on. I have two of these blocks and on 2 480s and in the similar ball park. I have 3 diff 2080 ti blocks and there is nothing wrong with the block. Peeps need to understand, watts dissipated,and expected temp deltas.

  4. #4
    ROG Guru: Yellow Belt Array CSN7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vlada011 View Post
    I only could say your temperatures are great. Below 55C for full cover block are good temperatures.
    I don't believe GPU could work 31C. That's mistake. Maybe if you play game with 200 fps and VSync on and GPU work with 20% power.
    But full load no way below 45C. That's impossible, simply 25C water can't prevent Graphic processors to stay on 35C., 45c reach even before heat transfer start and from loop depend how much will rise, 5c or 15c. 31C full load, that's not possible.. Maybe on 0C , benchmark in Canadian wood.
    You're always talking like you know it all across many forums. But did you even try it yourself? Sometimes you talk a lot that is just misleading or wrong or lack any proof.

    I used an old little GPU-only block from EK (I think ek supremacy VGA is it's name) on the 2080Ti Strix and it got to 36°C on load. Eventhough it's micro channel section is a little too small for the new huge die size of the 2080Ti. I compensate that with the use of liquid metal as TIM. Liquid Metal on a GPU saves like 6-7°C. Tested on about 8 1080Ti's and 3 2080Ti's so far. But 55°C is just bad for watercooling and not worth the money you spend on the cooling components. And Below 45°C is very possible with normal ambient temperature.

  5. #5
    ROG Guru: Brown Belt Array Vlada011 PC Specs
    Vlada011 PC Specs
    MotherboardRampage V E10 (BIOS 1903)
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    Quote Originally Posted by CSN7 View Post
    You're always talking like you know it all across many forums. But did you even try it yourself? Sometimes you talk a lot that is just misleading or wrong or lack any proof.

    I used an old little GPU-only block from EK (I think ek supremacy VGA is it's name) on the 2080Ti Strix and it got to 36°C on load. Eventhough it's micro channel section is a little too small for the new huge die size of the 2080Ti. I compensate that with the use of liquid metal as TIM. Liquid Metal on a GPU saves like 6-7°C. Tested on about 8 1080Ti's and 3 2080Ti's so far. But 55°C is just bad for watercooling and not worth the money you spend on the cooling components. And Below 45°C is very possible with normal ambient temperature.
    Are you retard?
    Guy show excellent temperatures on 2080Ti Strix and complain and you talk to me something.
    Maybe I don't have Bitspower waterblock because I would bought Watercool Heatkiller IV but I know what is excellent watercooling temps and many people can't reach his temperatures with similar type of watercooling. Go to Hell!

    What is possible below 45C. Watercooling temperatures depend of ambient temps as well if in house is 25-26C no way to load temperatures stay below 45C. Maybe if you live on Alaska, play games N3B Parka and sit in 5C ambient and you will have 40C under full load.
    Last edited by Vlada011; 01-09-2019 at 10:02 AM.


  6. #6
    Banned Array JustinThyme PC Specs
    JustinThyme PC Specs
    Laptop (Model)G752VY-DH72
    MotherboardRampage VI Extreme
    ProcessorI9 9940X
    Memory (part number)64GB DDR4 8x8 Corsair Dominator Platinum 3800 MHz @ C17
    Graphics Card #1ASUS Strix 2080Ti O11G @ 2.1GHz
    Graphics Card #2ASUS Strix 2080Ti O11G @ 2.1Ghz
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    Nothing wrong with your temps when you consider that on air the fans dont even come on until 55C at default. Loop flow makes no difference, this point has been proven time and again. If you have a decent flow the loop isnt the problem. Do you have a flowmeter? Im not a fan of the swiftech. Tried them several times and all my samples either failed completely or didnt offer good flow. The ones that failed swiftech did a dance around honoring the warranty and said I ran them dry which was a blatant lie. Then they wouldnt return the two DOA pumps to me. Had to go through my CC company to get my money back.
    As for a titan not passing 31C, I didnt see mention of a chiller in there. I have twin 1080Ti cards that idle at 32C with both bitspower and EK blocks and peak about 40C with heavy prolonged load. I have t 480 rads and 1 360 with dual D5 pumps in serial with 24C ambient, liquid temp never passes 31C as my fan controller regulates off of the liquid temp. My flowrate is 300L/hr Whats your liquid temp? Whats ambient temp? Whats your flowrate?

    Cant help to get things lower without all the variables. While I think these temps can be reduced a little just too many variables unknown. Could be a flow problem. A little trash gets in there and it will plug up the blocks, it doesnt take very much.

    Just FYI the only difference with a strix block is they have Strix logo on them.

  7. #7
    Administrator Array Silent Scone@ASUS's Avatar
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    As already mentioned above, those temps seem fine. The 2080Ti is a huge die, so close to delta-T temps aren't something one should expect.

    I have two 360mm EK Slimline rads on a D5 with VRM, 9900K and a 2080Ti plumbed in. Temps on the GPU can vary depending on load anywhere between 38 and 45C.

    Ambient temps 20-23C and water temp peaks of 35C.

  8. #8
    Banned Array JustinThyme PC Specs
    JustinThyme PC Specs
    Laptop (Model)G752VY-DH72
    MotherboardRampage VI Extreme
    ProcessorI9 9940X
    Memory (part number)64GB DDR4 8x8 Corsair Dominator Platinum 3800 MHz @ C17
    Graphics Card #1ASUS Strix 2080Ti O11G @ 2.1GHz
    Graphics Card #2ASUS Strix 2080Ti O11G @ 2.1Ghz
    Graphics Card #3ROG Nvlink
    Graphics Card #4Have to feed animals
    Sound CardExternal Audioengine D1 24 bit 192kbps DAC
    MonitorASUS PG348Q @ 100Hz
    Storage #1Intel 905P 480GB U2 flavor
    Storage #2Samsung 850 EVO 1TB X2 in RAID 0, 960 PRO 1TB DIMM.2_1
    CPU CoolerHeatKiller IV PRO and VRM blocks ,Dual D5 PWM serial, 2X 480, 1X 360 RADS
    CasePhanteks Enthoo Elite 8X LL120 PWM, 3X LL140 PWM, 12 SP120 PWM 1x AF140 PWM
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    First the cards are hard to come by and now no blocks. I grabbed one of these bitspower blocks and I’m not a big fan of the appearance and got it dirt cheap at micro center. Thing is the so called top dogs are late to the party. Bitspower, Thermaltake, Barrow and one I’ve never heard of Bykski all have them on the market. EK first said they will be out this month now a rep from Techpowerup confirmed he talked to them and they are “working on one”. The killer is for some unknown reason there are two chokes closer to the output end that are turned sideways. Other than that the layout of and components that would contact the block are identical. Heatkiller has no updates to anyone, their website has said available in January pretty much since it launched. These cards produce a tremendous amount of heat and will fill up a case quick, fast and in a hurry. I had my office window open with 20F weather and only one card benching. Had to open the glass on my case. Wife who was in bed 15 feet away ( I have a master suite that my office is supposed to be a sitting room that’s 12x14 feet off of the bedroom that’s 12x16) was complaining about it’s hot when she’s habitually always complaining about being cold. *For air cooling they really should go back to old school on these like the turbo edition that blows the heat OUT OF THE CASE!!*

    I’ve got a loop to handle it but only one block that may be going back just because I can’t locate another. Hate to do it but if EK or HK doesn’t have something on the shelf soon I’ll probably go with a pair of Barrow blocks that look like EK knock offs. My biggest prerequisite is nickel plated. Not because of aesthetics but because nickel won’t dissolve into the fluid like copper and aluminum will which is the single biggest contributor to funk in the lines. I get flashbacks to the old days of homemade blocks and heater cores from cars bought at junkyards for rads. Fittings were bought at plumbing supply places. Every 3-4 months drain, fill with Coca Cola and let it circulate overnight. The funk that got flushed is just unreal. Green goop. Then refill run an hour, drain the refill again overnight run and drain again. Then refill and good for another 3-4 months. We tried all sorts of stuff from windex, antifreeze, water wetter etc. in the end nothing better than distilled water and making sure you didn’t mix dissimilar metals on fittings and rads. I still use Coca Cola to clean and flush rads out of the system. Comes out clean and shiny.*
    Last edited by JustinThyme; 01-18-2019 at 04:47 AM.

  9. #9
    Tech Marketing Manager HQ Array Raja@ASUS's Avatar
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    EK told me they anticipate February for Strix blocks.

  10. #10
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    Has anybody else tested Bitspower and Byski blocks? I got the Strix 2080 Ti last week and would love to put this underwater as soon as possible. EK and Heatkiller blocks won't come until mid of February as they say, wouldn't mind waiting for another month, but I don't trust these release dates anymore. Not sure why the Strix blocks for EK and Heatkiller has been delayed this long.

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