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Enermax LiqTech 360 TR4 II on ZE

hardside
Level 7
What is everyone's temp reported by Zenith Extreme on it's display for 2950X ThreadsRipper. I'm having constant 50+ degress C, while doing nothing (I mean, few browser windows open). Maybe I am wrong, but this is the temp -27 degress offset, so the CPU is really over 80 degress constantly. And I turned off PBO 'cos temps were jumping high all the time and fans going up and down in speed were pissing me off....
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hardside
Level 7
For reference, I connected Corsair temp probes to outside parts of the radiator (Enermax II 360), where the tubes go in and out. Incoming tube temp hovers around 44-45 degrees Celsisus, outcoming around 37-38. To make it clear, sensors are taped to the metal casing of the radiator, right were the tubes go in and out.

ZE display shows 60-63% temp, while W10 EDU Task Manager Performance tab reports 2-3% load. PBO is off, Energy saving mode in BIOS is on and CPU is around 2.5GHZ according to Task Manager.

I don't think it is normal at all - basically CPU does nothing for all that heat, IMO. But I do not have previous experience with 2950X CPUs, so I might be mistaken. And opinions would be most welcome.


EDIT ----
I put temp probes on the tubing - around 2cm from the radiator, to eliminate the heat transfer through rad's metal casing. Of course now the tubings' braiding etc. comes into play, but the inlet temp is around 40 degrees and outlet is around 37...
There are 3 intake fans on the bottom, 3 outake on the top, fixed 1000RPM. I took off the glass panel right next to the rad, so that the fresh air (ambient temp is around 22-23 degrees) comes in, no change. Rad has 3 EK Vardars on it, with variable profile, but most of the time they blow like a jet, when CPU is over 60.

Rest of the components run low. Both PSU (Corsair HX1200i) and GPU (Sapphire Radeon RX580 Nitro) run so low, that their fans don't even spin.


So, 4 degrees (on the tubes) or 7 degress (on the casing where the tubes go in/out) difference in coolant's temp between coming in and coming out of the 360 rad means the rad is ****ed?

Or is it the ZE display that's wrong (BIOS 16.01)?

Cory29
Level 7
on an year old water cooling loop not cleaned I sit at (cpu) 30c - 40c idle in a warm room (65f-75f) after heavy use on a 1950x tdie .. other sensors see jumps as high as 80.

water cooling isn't an instant cooling process its much slower then a heat sink -- what could take 30 seconds to cool down on a metal heat sink might take 5-10 min on water. Pulling cool air from the outside of your case is the best way to decrease this time

basically the temp of the water coming in and out of the rad will be next to the same after a while

Arne_Saknussemm
Level 40
At idle the CPU should be 2...3...4 degrees above ambient...

There should be no appreciable difference between in and out temps on blocks in a loop with good flow...so something is very wrong with the cooler...

Thanks guys. And yes, the cooler must be broken. Block is probably getting clogged. Before buying it, I did wait for the more recent batch of version 2, because according to Enermax, all the issues were fixed by then. Well, they weren't.
I had PC freeze twice yesterday, from overheating I assume - ZE display at 68 degrees C, so I did block reinstall, TIM and all. Now my idle temp, with only browser open is 49-52... I also did some more research and apparently there is stuff building up in the block, and when you shake it a bit - which I did (unknowingly at the time) when replacing the TIM and re-seating it - it helps for a week or 2, to some degree. Now I just hope I will have enough time to do something about it, before CPU fries itself. (Well, it won't but PC will be unusable and chip is getting unnecessary wear - which I don't like having a 900+ euro CPU)

Enermax does not give support to Euro customers, according to their site. And I'm out of return period on Amazon. Guess I'll have to get the same one, and then have about 3 months to get something else or built custom loop.

Just a personal opinion (from personal experience) - stay away from Enermax AIOs, including late batch of version 2 that is supposed to be fixed.

Amazon is sending me a new one, of the same. Don't really have any other option at the moment, if I want to avoid multiple day/week downtime of the PC. I'll see if the new one fails after some months, and then get a refund. In the meantime I'll be researching a custom loop building for my 2950X.


And of course no, ZE temp display is NOT broken, at least not in my case.

Arne_Saknussemm
Level 40
OK...good idea...not good to run the CPU like that.

Custom loop is easy enough and not too expensive...especially when you factor in experiences like this with AIO cooing.

Arne Saknussemm wrote:
*snip* Custom loop is easy enough *snip*



What do you think about this shopping list? Numbers, if any (of course I'd pick only one), in my order of preference:

WATER BLOCK:
1. Watercool Heatkiller IV TR4-PRO
2. XSPC Raystorm NEO

PUMP:
AquaCool D5 NEXT

RESERVOIR:
HEATKILLER Tube 200 D5

RAD:
1. Hardware Labs Black Ice Nemesis 360 GTS (16 FPI, 26.6mm)
2. Koolance HX-CU1020V (30FPI, 29.6mm thick)

Cory29
Level 7
I have the xscp block no complaints
HardOCP - as probably the most honest reviews for tr4 coolers he also has close to 2 hours worth of how to apply tim to the thread-ripper series

D5 is a D5 only 1 company makes them then they get re branded and different shells
(unless something changed I haven't heard about)

rad - I have had good luck with Black ICE (only had ek and xscp as another brand)
3x is enouph as long as its not slim I have 2 thick 3x rads because I like to just set my comp fans at 15% and not hear them (until the zenith gets another bad bios update and pins them at 100% or blocks the fan curve limit to be 60% min)

Arne_Saknussemm
Level 40
I have the XSPC block it's great...

I have a couple of D5s they have worked great forever...

RAD...I go for low fpi...thick radiators...so the fans can run silent....of the two you listed the 360GTS would be my recommendation
https://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/07/30/koolance-hx-cu1020v-360mm-radiator-review/6/