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C7H random freezing/black screens qcode 8 (DRAM led)

darkdavid08
Level 7
Writing this from my phone so excuse any poor formatting.

Been having random freezes/black screens (qcode 8 Dram led lit) for the last several weeks after updating to the 2000 and higher bios versions and new AMD chipset drivers mid-late March. It progressively got worse until it freezes as soon as a minute after boot on desktop.

I've tried flashing back my BIOS to every version back to 1002 and no dice, same symptoms. Clearing CMOS and going stock each time, even safe mode does it.

The ram in my system is a f4-3200c14q-16gtzr set, CPU - 2700x, Storage - m.2/satassd/hdd, PSU - ax1500i (just replaced), Cooler - H150i pro, GPU - GTX 1070ti, and Motherboard is of course Asus C7H nonwifi.

I just ran memtest86 today on my RAM and it passed all tests with 0 errors. I'm seriously at wits end and don't know how to proceed from here without RMAing my motherboard. Everything has worked fine on PE3 everything Auto (stilts fast 3200) settings for almost a year up till the last few bios and AMD chipset updates. This makes me hesitant to RMA the motherboard as i don't think it's the issue.

Also, the freezing occurs regardless of OC or stock settings, and happens in safe mode.

If anyone can point me in the right direction as to where to go from here troubleshooting-wise, I'd be forever grateful.

Edit: also use Corsair iCue and Msi Afterburner along with having Asus AURA installed.

Edit2: Just got a Kmode Exception BSOD in safe mode; also went back to 0702 BIOS and tried a system restore, removed iCue from startup, now just getting freezes code 24 consistently 30s-1m at desktop after startup.
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15 REPLIES 15

MeanMachine
Level 13
Qcode 8 with the DRAM led lit indicates a problem with RAM. Either you have a mismatch or the MB DRAM slots are dead.
As POST will not advance till DRAM led problem is resolved best is to clear CMOS then test slot functionality with just one DIMM and testing each slot. Testing also with another kit at 2666MHz is worth a try.
We owe our existence to the scum of the earth, Cyanobacteria

My System Specs:

MB:ASUS ROG Crosshair VII Hero/WiFi GPU:EVGA GTX 1080 sc PSU:Corsair AX-1200i
CPU:
AMD R7 2700X Cooler: Corsair Hydro H115i Case: Corsair Carbide 780t

Memory:G.Skill TridentZ F4-3200C14D-16GTZR SSD:Samsung 500GB 960 EVO M.2


[/HR]

MeanMachine wrote:
Qcode 8 with the DRAM led lit indicates a problem with RAM. Either you have a mismatch or the MB DRAM slots are dead.
As POST will not advance till DRAM led problem is resolved best is to clear CMOS then test slot functionality with just one DIMM and testing each slot. Testing also with another kit at 2666MHz is worth a try.


Bought a new 4gb stick at the local computer store, still getting qcoding 8 Dram led flashing can't get past a UEFI usb drive fresh install of Windows 10, I don't know what to do at this point besides remounting my H150i pro bracket or RMAing my motherboard. I don't understand how it worked perfectly up till now.

darkdavid08 wrote:
Bought a new 4gb stick at the local computer store, still getting qcoding 8 Dram led flashing can't get past a UEFI usb drive fresh install of Windows 10, I don't know what to do at this point besides remounting my H150i pro bracket or RMAing my motherboard. I don't understand how it worked perfectly up till now.


Well if your DIMMs are all OK and well seated, you cleared CMOS to no avail and tested a 2666MHz 4GB DIMM to test, then it's time to RMA the MB as the only other thing I can think of is the new PSU. (Very doubtful being more than enough wattage and a quality product)
Hope you get it sorted :confused:
We owe our existence to the scum of the earth, Cyanobacteria

My System Specs:

MB:ASUS ROG Crosshair VII Hero/WiFi GPU:EVGA GTX 1080 sc PSU:Corsair AX-1200i
CPU:
AMD R7 2700X Cooler: Corsair Hydro H115i Case: Corsair Carbide 780t

Memory:G.Skill TridentZ F4-3200C14D-16GTZR SSD:Samsung 500GB 960 EVO M.2


[/HR]

MeanMachine wrote:
Well if your DIMMs are all OK and well seated, you cleared CMOS to no avail and tested a 2666MHz 4GB DIMM to test, then it's time to RMA the MB as the only other thing I can think of is the new PSU. (Very doubtful being more than enough wattage and a quality product)
Hope you get it sorted :confused:


The first thing I replaced was the PSU from an older cx650m, I have no idea what could have killed my mobo tho, why was it stable and running flawless for many months up until the last 3 bios versions and AMD chipset drivers, I feel like the new AGESA or something in those bios' borked my mobo if that's possible. I appreciate the support thanks again.

New edit: System works with all manual voltages using recommended voltages from another C7H OC thread on Overclockers.net, had to change SOC voltage to 1.15V, CPU voltage to 1.35V, DRAM voltage to 1.4V and CLDO_VDDP to 980mV. Set all voltages manually. Set RAM to 2133MT/s too.

Not sure why Auto worked for so long and why this is working now, that being said I have a day till my RMA label shows up. Should I still RMA the board?

darkdavid08 wrote:
New edit: System works with all manual voltages using recommended voltages from another C7H OC thread on Overclockers.net, had to change SOC voltage to 1.15V, CPU voltage to 1.35V, DRAM voltage to 1.4V and CLDO_VDDP to 980mV. Set all voltages manually. Set RAM to 2133MT/s too.

Not sure why Auto worked for so long and why this is working now, that being said I have a day till my RMA label shows up. Should I still RMA the board?


Well NO!! 😞 Why RMA the MB if the system now works and is stable?
Obviously your updating and re-flashing Bios has resulted in unacceptable results. You have now done necessary research at Overclockers.net with positive results.

Updating or flashing Bios for the sake of it is not the best idea and should be done only as requirement to fix an issue regarding performance.
If the system is performing well and stable then leave it or be prepared to begin Bios tuning from scratch.

Glad you have it sorted 🙂
We owe our existence to the scum of the earth, Cyanobacteria

My System Specs:

MB:ASUS ROG Crosshair VII Hero/WiFi GPU:EVGA GTX 1080 sc PSU:Corsair AX-1200i
CPU:
AMD R7 2700X Cooler: Corsair Hydro H115i Case: Corsair Carbide 780t

Memory:G.Skill TridentZ F4-3200C14D-16GTZR SSD:Samsung 500GB 960 EVO M.2


[/HR]

MeanMachine wrote:
[…]

Updating or flashing Bios for the sake of it is not the best idea and should be done only as requirement to fix an issue regarding performance.
If the system is performing well and stable then leave it or be prepared to begin Bios tuning from scratch.

Glad you have it sorted 🙂


Well, that is usually a good advice, but IMHO not in the case of this mobo… every BIOS update from Asus ha risen the level of compatibility especially with RAM.
If I was in the OP's shoes I would go for RMA, even at the risk of being rejected. The mobo MUST work with a supported CPU and everything set to Auto in BIOS… if it does not, it's faulty meaning it's not capable of give the correct volts for that kind of CPU.
The final test would be another CPU in the 'faulty' mobo but it's not an easy try to do.

Baio
CASE Lian Li 011D XL CPU AMD Ryzen 7950X3D COOLER Corsair H150i Elite Capellix MOBO Asus ROG Strix X670E-A Gaming Wifi RAM 2x16Gb Corsair Dominator Titanium 6000 [CMP32GX5M2B6000Z30] PSU Asus Thor 1200P VGA Asus ROG Strix RX 6900XT DISPLAY LG 34GK950GF AUDIO Logitech G560 SDD NVMe WD Black SN850 4Tb INPUT Logitech Pro wireless + Powerplay + Corsair MM 700 RGB - Corsair K100

Baio73 wrote:
Well, that is usually a good advice, but IMHO not in the case of this mobo… every BIOS update from Asus ha risen the level of compatibility especially with RAM.
If I was in the OP's shoes I would go for RMA, even at the risk of being rejected. The mobo MUST work with a supported CPU and everything set to Auto in BIOS… if it does not, it's faulty meaning it's not capable of give the correct volts for that kind of CPU.
The final test would be another CPU in the 'faulty' mobo but it's not an easy try to do.

Baio


As you quoted me I felt compelled to answer re your Opinion.

First I disagree with your suggestion to RMA the MB unless definitive evidence of failure is found. (A profound inconvenience, Dissembling, Transport and cost, not to mention dealing with ASUS Support) The OP has a compatible MB and CPU so definitely no issue there.

I have this MB and have had no issues with my 2700X with either Overclocking to 4.2GHz or compatibility with RAM at 3200MHz. (Original Bios)

Yes it required some Bios and RAM Tweaking which I consider a normal task. I consider it best practice to stress test initially at default to check on such things as Rail voltages (under load), Temperatures and sensors, RAM Timings etc.

Auto Overclocks do and tend to Overvolt needlessly however without any major safety issue. It may result in unacceptable temperature levels however Core voltage is easily rectified and a necessity to obtain a stable OC.
We owe our existence to the scum of the earth, Cyanobacteria

My System Specs:

MB:ASUS ROG Crosshair VII Hero/WiFi GPU:EVGA GTX 1080 sc PSU:Corsair AX-1200i
CPU:
AMD R7 2700X Cooler: Corsair Hydro H115i Case: Corsair Carbide 780t

Memory:G.Skill TridentZ F4-3200C14D-16GTZR SSD:Samsung 500GB 960 EVO M.2


[/HR]

MeanMachine wrote:
As you quoted me I felt compelled to answer re your Opinion.

First I disagree with your suggestion to RMA the MB unless definitive evidence of failure is found. (A profound inconvenience, Dissembling, Transport and cost, not to mention dealing with ASUS Support) The OP has a compatible MB and CPU so definitely no issue there.

I have this MB and have had no issues with my 2700X with either Overclocking to 4.2GHz or compatibility with RAM at 3200MHz. (Original Bios)

Yes it required some Bios and RAM Tweaking which I consider a normal task. I consider it best practice to stress test initially at default to check on such things as Rail voltages (under load), Temperatures and sensors, RAM Timings etc.

Auto Overclocks do and tend to Overvolt needlessly however without any major safety issue. It may result in unacceptable temperature levels however Core voltage is easily rectified and a necessity to obtain a stable OC.


I understood the OP didn't manage to install Windows 10 from scratch, with all BIOS options set to Auto.
If it's the case and the installation fails, we're talking of defective hardware.

I agree this mobo and CPU need quite a lot fine tuning to work together at their best … I'm still struggling with my RAM, no way to make them work @3600MHz, which is its stock speed, even if 3600MHz for RAM is intended as overclock with Ryzen. But fine tuning is a later scenario.
First things MUST work @stock.
As the OP said, he run his system under overclock for some time, maybe the CPU has become the defective part.

Baio
CASE Lian Li 011D XL CPU AMD Ryzen 7950X3D COOLER Corsair H150i Elite Capellix MOBO Asus ROG Strix X670E-A Gaming Wifi RAM 2x16Gb Corsair Dominator Titanium 6000 [CMP32GX5M2B6000Z30] PSU Asus Thor 1200P VGA Asus ROG Strix RX 6900XT DISPLAY LG 34GK950GF AUDIO Logitech G560 SDD NVMe WD Black SN850 4Tb INPUT Logitech Pro wireless + Powerplay + Corsair MM 700 RGB - Corsair K100