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waterblocks

FR3D1
Level 7
some help about water blocks which one is best Copper Plexi, Copper Acetal,Nickel Plexi ,Nickel Acetal ?
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18 REPLIES 18

Zka17
Level 16
Again, FR3D1, waterblocks for what?! We need more input about your hardware...

Generally speaking, copper and nickel are usually the contact surfaces of waterblocks - so you won't even see to much of them after installation. The plexi and acetal is the part of the block which will face you (except VGAs - there you will see only the edge). So, you want transparent or not? Plexi is usually transparent, while acetal has some color (usually black or white)...

Getting back on copper vs nickel on functional side, copper has a higher heat dissipation ability - but in the case of the waterblocks that nickel plating of a fraction of the millimeters won't really matter.

What really matters at waterblocks is the interior design - how restrictive they are. Usually less restriction they have, better will be the coolant flow. But even if you have high restriction, you can use stronger more pumps...

One thing you have to keep in mind: don't mix copper with aluminum! I mean, if you choose a copper block, you have to et a copper radiator too - otherwise you will end up with electrolitic degradation of your entire loop.

Bottom line is: Get whichever you like better! When you post some hardware specs, we can discuss which brand/model is better for you. And keep in mind the not-to mix copper with aluminum rule!

My spec is
Asus M5A97-EVO
AMD phenom ii x4 810
8G Kit 1600 ripjaws x
1x sdd, 1x 2tb hhd
1x gtx 650 when it comes out

xeromist
Moderator
Just to clarify something if it wasn't clear from Zka's post: Virtually _ALL_ blocks are copper. Nickel is nickel plated copper. Acetal, etc are toppers for the copper. So as he said the flow channels are the primary differentiator.
A bus station is where a bus stops. A train station is where a train stops. On my desk, I have a work station…

Zka17
Level 16
"Virtually _ALL_ blocks are copper. Nickel is nickel plated copper." - you're right, that's what I meant by "that nickel plating of a fraction of the millimeters won't really matter." Also, the aluminum I was mentioning about is not the block, but the radiator in the same loop.

Granger
Level 10
What is your budget for watercooling and have you already some of the parts?
For a first timer, I would advise the same path that I took (I bought a cpu cooling kit)
The advantage of a kit is, you get everything you need and it can then be built apon at a later date (for watercooling the gpus etc...)

Check out the Swiftech H2O 360 EDGE HD (the one I'm using, it also exists with a 240mm rad)
or if you fancy a seperate resevoir and pump, XSPC does a good kit et a decent price too 😉

FR3D1
Level 7
my buget is about $150 but i hav one question:
does the block ever rust?

FR3D1 wrote:
does the block ever rust?


Rust is iron oxide to technically the answer is no!:rolleyes:

But yes, it does oxidize turning dark then green. The idea, in part, of plating it with nickel is to help prevent this. The nickel also helps prevent or minimize other types of corrosion (Galvanic etc). It is a very slow process though....

My answer to your original question would be none of them. Full copper or full nickel (nickel plated copper) would be best. But only by a bearly measurable fraction re temps. The plexi is good for seeing colored fluids.

kkn
Level 14
a waterblock dont corrode/rust since its not steel, copper = dont rust.

is it for cpu or graphic card you gona get?

FR3D1
Level 7
another question does the gpu company still warranty my gpu when i change to waterblock?