Results 1 to 6 of 6
  1. #1
    ROG Enthusiast Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2013

    Unhappy Wireless broke on my G750?

    Last nigh when I got home from work, thought I'd sit down and do some gaming. But all of the sudden I was disconnected from my wi-fi. Did some tests on my pads, phones etc and all seemed to be fine. Also just resetted the wi-fi router to be sure. Then, my G750 completly freezes up. Nothing worked, at all. Holding down the powerbutton for 3-4 secs it boots back up. Inside W8 again I try connect up with the wireless wi-fi...nothing, wont connect. half minute later the G750 freezes again. Now I'm really starting to get pissed. Plug in the RJ-45 cable and I have internett again, finally.

    Decided to remove the G750's wi-fi drivers and installed new ones from the asus site. Once done, the computer freezes once more. So to put it down easly, everytime I touches something that has to do with the wireless, it freezes. The computer is only a few days old Even more pissed and upset I take the G750 and throw it back into the original box and ship i back.

    I will get my money back for sure, since I have an open 30 days open/refund with no questions asked. I wont even bother tell them whats wrong with it, just gotta start all over.

    My BIG question is, is this a typical thing with these new 750's ? I want to by another one, but would hate if this crap happend again.

    Any inputs and thoughts are moust appreciated since I gotta make up my mind before monday. Can't live without a comp :P

  2. #2
    New ROGer Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2012

    if reinstall driver from asus support site, is not help, i think it is HW problem, please send to asus service center to check.

  3. #3
    New ROGer Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2013

    Dude just dont buy nothing more, the support is worst ever see.

    They know about problems from wireless card but i dont care and they gone tell is you router.

  4. #4
    ROG Guru: Yellow Belt Array iweber95's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013

    I have had no problems with mine at all. The laptop been a dream come true for me! Works great and no complaints.
    ASUS G750JX
    CPU: Intel Quad Core I7-4700HQ @ 3.4GHz
    GPU: Nvidia GeForce GTX 770M @ 932Mhz
    RAM: 16GB
    Memory: 1TB + 256GB SSD
    OS: Windows 8

  5. #5
    ROG Enthusiast Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2013

    I have no problems with my wifi card either, but I have that Killer Wireless card in mine. I installed the driver specific to that from the Asus site under G750JH drivers, and it's running nice and fast.

  6. #6
    ROG Guru: Platinum Belt Array hmscott PC Specs
    hmscott PC Specs
    Laptop (Model)Asus G750JH-DB71 (legacy)
    MotherboardAsus G750JH Intel HM87
    ProcessorIntel i7-4700HQ XTU Cores 36x/35x/34x/34x Cache 36x -50mV undervolt
    Memory (part number)Hyundai Electronics HMT41GS6AFR8A-PB 1.35v DDR3L-1600MHz
    Graphics Card #1Nvidia 780m Asus GPU Tweak OC 932mhz/6300mhz
    Sound CardRealtek v6.0.1.7469 driver
    MonitorAUO B173HW02 V1 Custom Refresh 85hz
    Storage #1RAID0 2x M.2 SATA Crucial MX200 512GB CT500MX200SSD6
    Storage #2Crucial 512GB 2.5" MX200 CT500MX200SSD1
    Power Supply230w AC Power Adapter 19.5v
    Keyboard Logitech k400 Wireless KB/Trackpad
    Headset Sony MDR-XB500 Wired and Sennheiser RS-220 Wireless TOSLINK
    OS Windows 8.1 + 8 Linux VM's + Windows 10 Technical Preview
    Network RouterAsus RT-AC68U DLINK DIR-655

    Join Date
    Jun 2013

    Jeracan, I know hearing that the router might be the issue sounds like they are passing the buck, and they are, but it is likely the cause and the easiest to tune/fix.

    Wireless standards are implemented by lots of different companies, and not all are compatible. Some chip sets won't play well with others at standard settings, and you have to go in and tune the bandwidth, protocols used, and authentication used. If any of the points of link set up between a laptop wireless chip set and router chip set differ there will the symptoms you are seeing.

    You can be knocked off of a router by another router/ap/node with a strong signal. Use a program like inSSIDer to look at where the other signals are located near you and if needed move your router center channel frequency to an open area.


    I use my tablet/phone to look mostly:

    Throughout the tuning / config changes you are making, make notes in a notebook what the original setting(s) and problem(s) was, recording date/time doesn't hurt, and then note the change and result.

    This so you can back up to the previous setting if the new one you are trying doesn't work, and so you don't go back and try the same thing again. It is easy to forget what you have tried before when you only get a few minutes between debugging sessions and you have to set values back to the original ones before shutting down the debugging session.

    First, on the router, make sure you limit the protocols available to just one, like 802.11n (once you figure out where the config problem is you can add back b,g,etc, if possible)

    Set the wireless center channel to an open area, like this for dlink:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	2.4ghz wireless landscape.JPG 
Views:	2 
Size:	29.6 KB 
ID:	27277

    Note in that picture how few open areas there are, and how the one that dlink is on is the least worst

    Then if you are able to connect ok, you are done.

    Unfortunately sometimes you need to go in and tweak more. Set bandwidth to a fixed 20mhz or 40mhz or ?, set the authentication methods, or even more twiddly settings.

    Here are my manual settings on the router side for compatibility with all my devices that gives the best throughput and reliable connection on all of them. Except for the 802.11b hosts I run off of my phone tether AP/router.

    I only have a 60mbit internet link here so getting more throughput isn't needed, you may want to tune for more throughput for LAN sharing in your setup if you don't have devices averse to a 40mhz channel.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	dlink router manual settings #1.JPG 
Views:	0 
Size:	125.8 KB 
ID:	27278

    Note how I limit authentication to WPA2 Only and AES Only - for best 802.11n speed.
    WPA / TKIP are needed for legacy devices but reduce max speed to 54mbits.
    Also note the bandwidth is set to 20mhz, because one of my devices doesn't like 40mhz. This limits my throughput on 802.11n, but for compatibility I live with it. See speed tests at the end.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	dlink router manual settings #2.JPG 
Views:	16 
Size:	49.9 KB 
ID:	27279

    Note how I set the power output to low. That isn't just to avoid conflict with neighboring routers, it reduces the heat output internally and extends the life of the router.

    Note not every router supports short preamble. If you have compatibility issues - a long preamble setting can help.

    You can also tune the settings on the laptop wireless adapter - again, write the original setting(s) down in your notebook before changing them!

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	broadcom advanced settings power 25 percent.JPG 
Views:	17 
Size:	43.1 KB 
ID:	27280

    There are a lot of settings that don't apply, and I recommend not setting anything else you don't need to change on the laptop side because you might need them back to the original setting to be compatible with other wireless APs/Routers when you are mobile.

    Here is my throughput on 802.11n with the above settings on a 60mbit internet connection:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	wireless speed #1.JPG 
Views:	2 
Size:	19.2 KB 
ID:	27282

    And, throughput using the laptop Ethernet, which is how I always run when possible:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	ethernet speed #1.JPG 
Views:	1 
Size:	19.9 KB 
ID:	27283

    So, there are a lot things that go into making a stable connection, you need to be very patient and observent to make connections work if they aren't working with the automatic defaults, but it is possible to get it to work with some patience.

    Or a new router

    I also run a Netgear WNDR3700 (the 5GHZ side, as the 2.4GHZ side fried its transmit chip), and soon an Asus RT-AC68U which will be a match for the Broadcom 802.11ac full speed connection.

    So I will be running 4 routers. One for legacy 802.11g, one for 802.11n, and one for 802.11ac - and tethering old 802.11b PDA's and game portables off my phone - that is 4 routers.

    All the routers tuned best to serve the devices connected to them, all set to power levels that don't interfere with each other, or my neighbors.

    Why doesn't it work out of the box? I have to wonder how it works so well most of the time
    Last edited by hmscott; 10-05-2013 at 08:00 PM.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts