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TIght waterblock screws = no boot ?

LiveOrDie
Level 11
So i finally found the problem why my board would no longer boot it would just power on for a second then off in a loop, It seems to be the water block screws doing it if there loose it boots every time, I even tried doing them up a bit but got random resets in windows.
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22 REPLIES 22

HiVizMan
Level 40
I am sorry I do not fully understand.

Your system does not work, that I understand.

Are you telling us it is because your water cooler was to tight?

Or are you asking for assistance?
To help us help you - please provide as much information about your system and the problem as possible.

LiveOrDie
Level 11
I'm telling you it was because of the water block and also asking for any ideas so i can do the screws ill be trying springs 1st.

HiVizMan
Level 40
Ah right thank you.

The Corsair H100i is quite good for getting the pressure of the fitting spot on. Are you using the official LGA 2011 mounting kit?
To help us help you - please provide as much information about your system and the problem as possible.

Chino
Level 15
LiveOrDie wrote:
So i finally found the problem why my board would no longer boot it would just power on for a second then off in a loop, It seems to be the water block screws doing it if there loose it boots every time, I even tried doing them up a bit but got random resets in windows.

In the past, various users overtightened the mounting screws which would warp the motherboard causing the CPU not to make contact with the pins. One of the main symptoms is exactly what you describe.

LiveOrDie
Level 11
Like i said i didn't over tighten them i did them up till they wouldn't be loose, seems any think more than finger tight creates a problem.

PS its not a H100i i'm using a EK-FB ASUS M6I.

LiveOrDie wrote:
seems any think more than finger tight creates a problem


You should never tighten anything more than finger tight.....it causes problems 😉

HalloweenWeed
Level 12
EVGA had the same prob W/CPU socket screws on the X58 line boards circa 2010. Tightening the screws too tight warps the board too much, possibly causing hairline fractures too. When the hairline fractures happen, it can break the board traces, but when conditions are just right the traces touch over the fracture, and it works - but it's no longer reliable. That said, there is no way for a normal person to check for these hairline fractures, so we have no way of knowing if that is the problem or if you merely are having the problem Chino detailed.

Theoretically speaking, if the board socket was overtightened to begin with, tightening the cooler could have caused the board to fracture; the "straw that broke the camel's back" so-to-speak. My RIVE had one screw a bit loose when shipped. I suggest you remove the cooler and carefully explore how tight the CPU socket screws were. GL.
i7-3930K; Asus RIVE; G.SKILL Ripjaws Z 4x4GB DDR3 1866; MSI 7870 2GD5/OC; Crucial M4 SSD 256GB;
Corsair 1000HX; Corsair H100, 4x Excalibur 120mm PWM CPU Fan p-p, AS5; SB X-Fi Titanium Fata1ity Pro;
Dell U2412m IPS 1920x1200; Cooler Master HAF 932 case; Tripp-Lite OMNIVS1500 UPS fully Line-interactive.
(EVGA site: ) And I have a second (wife's) computer, Eve.

Overclocking is useless to me if it is not rock stable.

HalloweenWeed wrote:
EVGA had the same prob W/CPU socket screws on the X58 line boards circa 2010. Tightening the screws too tight warps the board too much, possibly causing hairline fractures too. When the hairline fractures happen, it can break the board traces, but when conditions are just right the traces touch over the fracture, and it works - but it's no longer reliable. That said, there is no way for a normal person to check for these hairline fractures, so we have no way of knowing if that is the problem or if you merely are having the problem Chino detailed.

Theoretically speaking, if the board socket was overtightened to begin with, tightening the cooler could have caused the board to fracture; the "straw that broke the camel's back" so-to-speak. My RIVE had one screw a bit loose when shipped. I suggest you remove the cooler and carefully explore how tight the CPU socket screws were. GL.


As i had to change the back plate i had to take the socket screws out i did them up tight but around the same as they where when i removed it also the screws on the back plate for the block are finger tight at the moment and i haven't had any problems so far do you think i should remove it or just leave it, There's a lot of work to take it off like draining the hole loop.

From my understanding it wouldn't mater if the socket was tight barbecue the block would push the cpu down more past that of a overtightened socket?

LiveOrDie wrote:
As i had to change the back plate i had to take the socket screws out i did them up tight but around the same as they where when i removed it also the screws on the back plate for the block are finger tight at the moment and i haven't had any problems so far do you think i should remove it or just leave it, There's a lot of work to take it off like draining the hole loop.

From my understanding it wouldn't mater if the socket was tight barbecue the block would push the cpu down more past that of a overtightened socket?

I don't know. I was just thinking maybe you never checked your CPU socket screws, but you did. The thing is, if they were tightened to the point that the board cracked, they might not feel too tight after the damage was done; I just don't know. I was just throwing another possibility out there to keep in mind, since you already redid your screws.
i7-3930K; Asus RIVE; G.SKILL Ripjaws Z 4x4GB DDR3 1866; MSI 7870 2GD5/OC; Crucial M4 SSD 256GB;
Corsair 1000HX; Corsair H100, 4x Excalibur 120mm PWM CPU Fan p-p, AS5; SB X-Fi Titanium Fata1ity Pro;
Dell U2412m IPS 1920x1200; Cooler Master HAF 932 case; Tripp-Lite OMNIVS1500 UPS fully Line-interactive.
(EVGA site: ) And I have a second (wife's) computer, Eve.

Overclocking is useless to me if it is not rock stable.