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ROGBot
Here are my build specs to start with:
~Cooler Master Cosmos II Ultra Tower
~SeaSonic X-1050w 80 Plus Gold PSU
~Intel Core i7-4770k Haswell CPU (OC to 4400@1.275 vcore)
~Asus Maximus VI Formula Motherboard
~Corsair H100 Closed Loop Liquid Cooler in Push/Pull Config
~Corsair Dominator Platinum 16 GB (4x4GB) @ 1866
~2 Asus GTX680 DC2T in SLI
~OCZ Vector 256GB SSD and WD VelociRaptor 500GB
~Corsair Air Series Fans and 2 CCFL Blue Light Bars
~Custom Clear Plexi Side Panel
~Razer Naga 2014 Mouse
~Razer Anansi Keyboard
~2 27" ViewSonic VG2732m-LED Monitors at 1080p
Currently I get a Max temp reading of 79c on an 4hr RealBench Stress test. Average temps are between 69c-73c. The system idles at 29c-32c. This is with EIST and all the other power saving features turned on. Turn them off and add about 3-5c to that. I personally don't like the load temps. I think they are a bit high for one and I would also like to get a bit more OC out of my system if I can. 4400@1.275 is what I have now and i think if i go full custom loop I can maybe get 4500 or even 4600 if i am super lucky. Not sure my CPU can do it though. Vcore is already pushing what can be done on water if i am understanding the OC forums guidelines correctly. Last thing I wanna do is burn my chip or my board.
So anyway, I am looking to put in a nice water cooling loop to match my case design and color. I have been looking at this kit from Frozen CPU: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21642/ex-wat-276/XSPC_Raystorm_AX360_Extreme_Universal_CPU_Water_C...
I plan to replace a few parts of the kit to customize it such as PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 7/16"ID x 5/8" OD - Brilliant UV Blue (PFLEXA-758-B), PrimoChill Anti-Kink Coils, Monsoon .999 Fine Silver Bullet Antimicrobial G 1/4 Plug - Blue and adding in the Motherboard to the loop. I planned on using EK EKoolant Premium Liquid Cooling Premix as well so as to avoid issues with mixing my own coolant and possibly having nastiness in the lines.
The reviews on this kit are really good and it seems that the pumps are really reliable and it looks really good if it's properly installed. I build computers for a living so i don't think this will be an issue even if it is my first Custom Water Loop.
My questions are this, since allot of you guys/gals water cool your own rigs, would you recommend the set-up I have planned? Are there any components that would give me better performance/temps than what I mentioned? Is there anything I can do to make the loop better? I considered putting in some quick disconnects close to the pump in case of failure or the need to remove it for whatever reason. Is this a good idea? And another concern is my PSU. Is it big enough to suport my current OC AND a Water cooling system? I didn't originally plan for it. 😕 Any other feedback would also be welcome!
My budget on this isn't really unlimited but I can stretch it beyond the current scope of around $350 if need be. Try to keep your parts suggestions within reasonable limits. I'm not rich. lol But I do want this to be a quality installation. I don't want to contend with massive issues. I would like it to just work. lol
Thanks again!
~Cooler Master Cosmos II Ultra Tower
~SeaSonic X-1050w 80 Plus Gold PSU
~Intel Core i7-4770k Haswell CPU (OC to 4400@1.275 vcore)
~Asus Maximus VI Formula Motherboard
~Corsair H100 Closed Loop Liquid Cooler in Push/Pull Config
~Corsair Dominator Platinum 16 GB (4x4GB) @ 1866
~2 Asus GTX680 DC2T in SLI
~OCZ Vector 256GB SSD and WD VelociRaptor 500GB
~Corsair Air Series Fans and 2 CCFL Blue Light Bars
~Custom Clear Plexi Side Panel
~Razer Naga 2014 Mouse
~Razer Anansi Keyboard
~2 27" ViewSonic VG2732m-LED Monitors at 1080p
Currently I get a Max temp reading of 79c on an 4hr RealBench Stress test. Average temps are between 69c-73c. The system idles at 29c-32c. This is with EIST and all the other power saving features turned on. Turn them off and add about 3-5c to that. I personally don't like the load temps. I think they are a bit high for one and I would also like to get a bit more OC out of my system if I can. 4400@1.275 is what I have now and i think if i go full custom loop I can maybe get 4500 or even 4600 if i am super lucky. Not sure my CPU can do it though. Vcore is already pushing what can be done on water if i am understanding the OC forums guidelines correctly. Last thing I wanna do is burn my chip or my board.
So anyway, I am looking to put in a nice water cooling loop to match my case design and color. I have been looking at this kit from Frozen CPU: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21642/ex-wat-276/XSPC_Raystorm_AX360_Extreme_Universal_CPU_Water_C...
I plan to replace a few parts of the kit to customize it such as PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 7/16"ID x 5/8" OD - Brilliant UV Blue (PFLEXA-758-B), PrimoChill Anti-Kink Coils, Monsoon .999 Fine Silver Bullet Antimicrobial G 1/4 Plug - Blue and adding in the Motherboard to the loop. I planned on using EK EKoolant Premium Liquid Cooling Premix as well so as to avoid issues with mixing my own coolant and possibly having nastiness in the lines.
The reviews on this kit are really good and it seems that the pumps are really reliable and it looks really good if it's properly installed. I build computers for a living so i don't think this will be an issue even if it is my first Custom Water Loop.
My questions are this, since allot of you guys/gals water cool your own rigs, would you recommend the set-up I have planned? Are there any components that would give me better performance/temps than what I mentioned? Is there anything I can do to make the loop better? I considered putting in some quick disconnects close to the pump in case of failure or the need to remove it for whatever reason. Is this a good idea? And another concern is my PSU. Is it big enough to suport my current OC AND a Water cooling system? I didn't originally plan for it. 😕 Any other feedback would also be welcome!
My budget on this isn't really unlimited but I can stretch it beyond the current scope of around $350 if need be. Try to keep your parts suggestions within reasonable limits. I'm not rich. lol But I do want this to be a quality installation. I don't want to contend with massive issues. I would like it to just work. lol
Thanks again!
I'm not sure that moving to water would make that big of a difference. Silicon lottery plays a big part and it looks like you may already have hit the limits on your chip.
Haswell is also not really known for being a good overclocker, they run hot. The temps you have given are honestly, not that bad. Also, running benchmarks is not really a good test for stability. You are better off just using your PC for what you would normally use it for as this would give you a more accurate readout within the environment/parameters you use it!
Are you running your overclock with an offset?
Haswell is also not really known for being a good overclocker, they run hot. The temps you have given are honestly, not that bad. Also, running benchmarks is not really a good test for stability. You are better off just using your PC for what you would normally use it for as this would give you a more accurate readout within the environment/parameters you use it!
Are you running your overclock with an offset?
snips86x wrote:
Are you running your overclock with an offset?
No I just set the XMP Profile for the ram, Changed the multiplier to 44 and upped the vcore by .025 till it was stable. I don't know how to even use the offset you speak of. lol I just did it the simple way like was recommended. Everything else I left on auto.
79C in that stress test with the voltage stated isn't that bad. You might get to 4600MHz with 1.35 to 1.4 Vcore, but I would bet on throttling at the 100C limit. A push for 4500MHz could get into throttling. Improved water cooling isn't likely to help. I think -- an opinion based on working with a very similar Haswell -- that the only way you will break the barrier you are against is to delid the CPU and replace the internal thermal paste (TIM). That's a big step and fraught with danger, but otherwise, I think you should be happy with the 4400Hhz.
That Raystorm kit is nice and certainly an improvement over any all-in-one. A decided advantage to a custom kit is that you can add to it. Water cooling the Vrm is a big attraction for the Formula motherboard. I'm afraid CPU cooling won't be much better that with the Corsair. Again the issue is getting heat from the CPU chip to the waterblock. I think that kit goes along well with the big step of delidding.
In my opinion, a 1050 watt power supply is ample. The CPU and Sli array you are using now dwarf the 30 or so watts of pump and fan power for the water loop. If the CPU gets to 4600MHz, power may go to 150 watts in reasonable stress tests and to 170 watts in AVX stress tests. That should be well within the capability of a 1050 watt PSU.
Hope these opinions and conjecture help.
Jeff
That Raystorm kit is nice and certainly an improvement over any all-in-one. A decided advantage to a custom kit is that you can add to it. Water cooling the Vrm is a big attraction for the Formula motherboard. I'm afraid CPU cooling won't be much better that with the Corsair. Again the issue is getting heat from the CPU chip to the waterblock. I think that kit goes along well with the big step of delidding.
In my opinion, a 1050 watt power supply is ample. The CPU and Sli array you are using now dwarf the 30 or so watts of pump and fan power for the water loop. If the CPU gets to 4600MHz, power may go to 150 watts in reasonable stress tests and to 170 watts in AVX stress tests. That should be well within the capability of a 1050 watt PSU.
Hope these opinions and conjecture help.
Jeff
Wow so much to reply to. lol From the sounds of it The general conclusion is not much may be gained from moving to a custom loop unless I de-lid the CPU which i am kinda scared to do to be honest. I really don't wanna mess it up cause I can't afford to replace it. It will take me a couple months to get the money for the Water kit. That being said I guess de-lidding is a last resort. What kind of temp differences can I expect to see out of de-lidding and what kind of thermal past would I use once I de-lid? AS5 is what i use on everything. Is that a good choice?
I can fit a single thickness 360mm rad in the top of the case with push pull. The drawback to this is I can't fit a full size 25mm fan on the inside back of the rad. So I either have to go with a slim fan or no fan in that spot. But I think it will still offer adequate cooling even if I leave off the 6th fan. I need my drive space so adding a second rad is not really doable at the moment unless I drastically change things up. So for now only planning on one 360mm rad.
Not too worried about noise right now. All pumps make noise so just have to live with it I guess. I can't afford a full custom loop so whatever I get is what I am stuck with. If you can offer up a quieter solution in a similar kit that would be very helpful though! 🙂 As far as it being hard to bleed, I have no idea how to remedy that issue. Not even sure how to bleed any pump at the moment. I just planned on reading through the instructions, watching video's and getting advice once I had the stuff in hand and ready to install. I did plan on adding in a fill tube which from what I understand can be used to bleed the system as well but as I said I haven't done that much research yet. Still in the planning phase. lol
I have considered reversing the airflow on the rad. Currently it is set up in exhaust out the top. If i were to set it up as intake I would only have one exhaust out the back and maybe the third fan on top as well if i left it as exhaust. Would that be enough? I have 3 120mm and a 200 mm intake from the side and front plus another 120mm intake on the inner front. That just leaves the three top 120's and the rear 140 as exhaust. I guess it would still force the positive air pressure out the back and right side vents of the case but I don't think my video cards would get enough ventilation at that point. I definitely cant afford the water blocks for those so I can't, at this point, consider water cooling them. Suggestions on this issue?
Thanks!
I can fit a single thickness 360mm rad in the top of the case with push pull. The drawback to this is I can't fit a full size 25mm fan on the inside back of the rad. So I either have to go with a slim fan or no fan in that spot. But I think it will still offer adequate cooling even if I leave off the 6th fan. I need my drive space so adding a second rad is not really doable at the moment unless I drastically change things up. So for now only planning on one 360mm rad.
Not too worried about noise right now. All pumps make noise so just have to live with it I guess. I can't afford a full custom loop so whatever I get is what I am stuck with. If you can offer up a quieter solution in a similar kit that would be very helpful though! 🙂 As far as it being hard to bleed, I have no idea how to remedy that issue. Not even sure how to bleed any pump at the moment. I just planned on reading through the instructions, watching video's and getting advice once I had the stuff in hand and ready to install. I did plan on adding in a fill tube which from what I understand can be used to bleed the system as well but as I said I haven't done that much research yet. Still in the planning phase. lol
I have considered reversing the airflow on the rad. Currently it is set up in exhaust out the top. If i were to set it up as intake I would only have one exhaust out the back and maybe the third fan on top as well if i left it as exhaust. Would that be enough? I have 3 120mm and a 200 mm intake from the side and front plus another 120mm intake on the inner front. That just leaves the three top 120's and the rear 140 as exhaust. I guess it would still force the positive air pressure out the back and right side vents of the case but I don't think my video cards would get enough ventilation at that point. I definitely cant afford the water blocks for those so I can't, at this point, consider water cooling them. Suggestions on this issue?
Thanks!
