JustinThyme wrote:
These power supplies are available just about anywhere, probably even walgreens! J/K but they are very plentyful. Im still using the original and have replaced the battery once.

Have you replaced the battery? In these laptops the battery is an integral part of the system. Mine would not boot with a bad battery.

https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=asus+adp+150nb+d&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=6070330...


https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=07g016hm1875&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=63004200323...

If you read my post, I found another identical adapter from my still unused new taken apart G73S that would boot and charge the battery to full capacity as even in windows, the bad power supply is not even seen from the system when plugged or unplugged while the good one is immediately detected once plugged or unplugged. The system does not need a battery if the power supply is working correctly as I leave my system on 24x7x365 so system powered down because the ac was no longer working and the battery did not have enough power. With only the battery, it would still boot into windows at 24% capacity and run until it was out of capacity. If I pulled the battery out and put it back even when it's completely drained, it will still attempt to boot the system and depending on my luck, I can get 5 minutes inside windows 10 each time but I'm running 2x2TB Samsung SSD's. The system lights are different when the ac adapter works even when trying to do the POST of the BIOS as the power light would be on with a good adapter while the battery light ofcourse would be solid or blinking orange as it is out of juice. Testing it without the battery, the bad adapter will power on the fans and the blu-ray writer will make noises and the lights like caps lock and power led would be on but the power light on the bottom will not. The screen also does not turn on because the GPU requires a certain amount of current. With the good power supply which we will call the PSU, it will POST fine with the video and boot into windows regardless if there is a battery or not. Remember I got lucky and have two identical model ASUS made by Delta PSU's, one is the one that came with the G74SX that died and the other is the new one from the G73S that was still in the G73S box that works so I know it is not the battery. While the power supplies might be available everywhere, I was asking for a quality one which is not to say just a generic one and just because it says ASUS on it does not mean quality either. No different than desktops, PC Power & Cooling are quality and reliable PSUs even though they may be modified ones from some brand and relabeled but it's reliable. My PCP&C on the desktop failed 9 years after the original 5 year warranty expired and it was fixed under warranty during year 4 once. The PSU still works now because all I did was replaced all the capacitors with quality Japanese Capacitors like Rubycon, Chemicon, Panasonic, Nichicon for example as most PSU's come with cheap non-Japanese capacitors which are not reliable and if you read about the 2000's capacitor issue, you will know many companies like ABIT went out of business because of lawsuits from using the poorly fake capacitors on the market. Here is what I actually replaced them with:

*2 x 50v 10uF 6mmx13mm -> United Chemi-Con KY (Indonesia 41 Yk) 50v 10uF 5mmX11mm (D)


*1 x Sanyo OS-CON 25v 2.2uF Polymer 6mmx7.5mm (EBay)


*1 x 50v 4.7uF 6mmx13mm -> United Chemi-Con KY (Indonesia 41 bK) 50v 4.7uF 5mmx11mm (D)


*1 x 25v 68uF 7mmx13mm -> Rubycon ZLH (Japan A1422) 25v 68uF 5mmx11mm (D)


*4 x 50v 1uF 5mmx8mm -> Rubycon YXJ (Japan A1414) 50v 1uF 5mmX11mm (D)


*2 x 200v 1000uF 25mmx52mm -> Panasonic TS-ED ( Malaysia 1O10D) 200v 1000uF 25mmx45mm(M)


*1 x 25v 47uF 6mmx12.5mm -> Panasonic FR (Malaysia 41IVGN) 25v 47uF 5mmX11mm (D)


*4 x 25v 100uF 7mmx12mm -> United Chemi-Con KY (Indonesia 4 (k) 1 J) 25v 100uF 6.3mmx11mm (D)


*2 x 6.3v 1000uF 9mmx16mm -> United Chemi-Con KY (Indonesia 4 (k) 3 Q) 10v 1000uF 8mmx20mm (D)


*1 x 6.3v 47uF 6mmx8mm -> Nichicon PW (Malaysia B1216) 10v 47uF 5mmx11mm (D)


*1 x 25v 22uF 6mmx13mm -> Panasonic FR (Malaysia 20IV0B) 50v 22uF 5mmx11mm (D)


*1 x 25v 1000uF 11mmx21mm -> United Chemi-Con KY (Japan 3(T) 9 R) 25v 1000uF 10mmx30mm (D)


*3 x 10v 4700uF 13mmx31mm -> United Chemi-Con KY (China 2(T) 0 V) 10v 4700uF 12.5mmx35mm (D)


*1 x 10v 6800uF 17mmx37mm -> United Chemi-Con KY (Japan 3(T) 1b) 10v 6800uF 16mmx31.5mm (D)


*2 x 16v 4700uF 14mmx41mm -> United Chemi-Con KYB (Japan 4 (2) 8E) 16v 4700uF 12.5mmx35mm (D)

I still have not opened the PSU for the ASUS yet but it's under the rubber feet as I have discovered and I am sure that replacing the capacitors with better ones, the PSU will actually be better than it was originally as one can always get capacitors that have higher specs than what is provided like the voltage can be higher but the other ratings needs to be the same. The thing is I don't know if these are solid state capacitors or if they are aluminum capacitors. If your notebook will not boot with just the AC adapter, then there is something else wrong inside like with the DC/DC inverter since before ASUS, I used to always have a few identical computers like from Dell and I have fixed every one that have failed by trying different parts. The G74SX does not require a battery to boot or run as long as your PSU is working correctly as that is the reason the PSU is 19volts and not 12VDC as what cars provide as part of the power is used for charging the battery while the other is used to power the system. I have never replaced my battery yet and even if this PSU did fail, I still have another G73 but I want to get another PSU to use and keep the PSUs I borrowed from other computers so I can use them when needed which was why I was asking originally. The other thing is that the output they claim might be only when it's under a certain temperature and when there is less load but when it's demanding, that's when you can tell if the PSU can actually deliver both the voltage and current that it claims. Just like quality PSU's on desktops, only those that are good can deliver the current it claims when the system asks for it and not just for a short period of time as when the demand is high on the poorly made PSUs, when it heats up, it will actually not deliver what it is supposed to under load while delivering a lot less and that's when it will fail. I mean the ASUS provided PSU's might only have one defect and that is capacitors with low specs like 85C and not 105C, ESR and how it can handle load without it pushing it to the limits since I still have not found from searching, anyone who tried to repair their PSU's yet. Reading the reviews on Amazon, it seems like PWR+ is good but even those have had some bad reviews even for those who use the 180W model. So basically I wouldn't even be able to post if my computer was not working since I already know what is wrong and just using another identical PSU until I find another new PSU for this system and keep the working one now as backup so I will not suffer much downtime since one would be in panic mode like I was for 6 hours until I remembered to try the PSU first as I never suspected the PSU and thought it was internal after reading threads like:
https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?49844-G74SX-not-turning-ON-on-just-ac-adapter-and-battery-...

Except I don't even see my PSU in Windows when it's plugged in so I thought the power was not making it to parts of the system from the AC and not to the battery and then the unable to get video or the GPU working without the battery, I completely forgot it could be a PSU problem of delivering enough current as I just woke up until I read some thread talking about checking the voltage of the ac adapter and sometimes the wires inside the ac adapter might short or get reversed, that was when I thought of the G73S and the PSU hoping it would be the same model and fortunately it is so I tried it without the battery and with the battery and the system works normally as it is always easier to troubleshoot problems when you have another one of the same product. Otherwise, it would have needed to go through either ASUS or some local computer repair place and cost money for the same diagnosis which will probably cost more than the remedy when it's the PSU.

Sorry, just read again and you said it won't boot with a bad battery which is not the same as no battery so what you said might be true since it could be the way the motherboard and BIOS is set up that it requires everything to pass the test before it will boot. I have only had a bad battery once with IBM ThinkPad's and Dell and both would boot with the bad battery with no complaints. The Dell had this Sanyo battery with the battery meter button which would not charge.

MrRuckus wrote:
My father tripped and stepped on his power cord going to the restroom late one night. I came over and swapped out his AC adapter for a new one purchased on Amazon, but his battery was done. It would not boot with his battery in it. Once the battery was removed, his laptop then booted and worked fine. He definitely shorted something when he stepped on the power cable. Just lucky he didnt break the pin in the power connector. His laptop now works fine, just minus the battery.

In my case, while I was on vacation, I did crushed the cable one time with the drawer in the hotel a little more than a month ago but if that was the case, the system would not have worked and my system still worked fine for 5 days continuously after getting back here. It could be the power there in asia was 240VAC putting more stress on the components while it's 120VAC in the U.S. after I got back. My battery is fine amazingly since it's fully charged to 100% and I can drain it normally without the PSU plugged in and charge back to 100% again, it's just swapping the PSU's with the bad one, the bad one isn't even seen by the system when I plug and unplug and since without the battery, it can power the fan and blu-ray writer but not the screen or it could just be the GPU, then it seems like it just doesn't deliver enough current since one can test the voltage with a Digital Multi-meter being 19.3v or so on both PSU's, one cannot test the load any other way without the proper tools and from experience, usually power problems whether it is in a Plasma TV, electronics, or PSU is caused by bad capacitors as the easy fix. It can always be more complicated than that, which is not worth fixing at that point. I guess I should be happy that my battery still is good and I only suffer the PSU dying after 4+ years and not within a year like reading all the reports on the forums and amazon.com.