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  1. #1
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    Help w/Overclock 4.5ghz ---> 4.6ghz (i7 3930k)

    Hello, and thanks for taking a look. I had a modestly stable (or I thought so) OC at 4.6ghz over the last year; every once in awhile I'd get a crash gaming, but never anything that was a clock_watchdog error or anything. However, now I'm beginning to wonder, since I've gone back and stress tested with Prime94 blend, and Cinebench. My rig is currently on two separate cooling loops, one for GFX cards and one for the CPU; EK blocks with Fesser tubing and bit-fittings. Of note is that I'm running around 50c at idle on water, and at load around 75c; but the thermal compound is a year and a half old and been through some drastic climate changes.

    Hardware:
    Asus X79 Sabertooth (love this board I have to say)
    i7 3930k
    RipJaw 1600mhz at 1.5v
    2x GTX 680s (also EK cooled)
    AX 1200i (corsair) PSU
    2x MCP655-B pumps (one for each loop)

    BIOS Settings:
    BCLK Frequency - 100mhz
    ClockGen Full Reset - Enabled
    CPU Core Ratio - 4.5ghz stable (1hr prime 95blend), ----> 4.6ghz Prime95 crashes after 20min
    Internal PLL Overvoltage - Enabled
    CPU Clock Gen Filter - Enabled
    DRAM Frequency - DDR3-1600MHZ
    EPU Power Saving Mode - Disabled
    CPU Load Line Calibration - Auto *
    CPU Current Capability - Auto *
    CPU Vcore Boot up Voltage - 1.4 (tried 1.41, and 1.42 with stability issues, and heat creep)
    VCCSA Load-Line Calibration - High
    VCCSA Current Capability - 100%
    CPU VCSSA Boot up Voltage - 1.2
    CPU Voltage Frequency - Auto
    CPU Spread Spectrum - Disabled
    CPU Power Duty Control - T.Probe
    CPU Power Phase Control - Optimized
    Extreme Over Voltage - Enabled
    CPU VCore - 1.4
    CPU VCCSA - 1.2
    DRAM Voltage - 1.5 as stated in manual etc.
    CPU PLL Voltage - 1.8
    VTTCPU Voltage - 1.1
    PCH - Auto etc.
    Last edited by Maize&Blue; 03-03-2015 at 10:00 PM.

  2. #2
    Moderator Array Nate152 PC Specs
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    Hello Maize&Blue

    There is something wrong with your cooling, the thermal compound after a year and a half shouldn't be causing high temps.

    you should have much better temps with a custom loop.

    Were your temps always this high?

  3. #3
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    I don't recall originally... It's an EK-Nickel block for the 3930k. Could something be stuck in the block or its not seated quite right?

    EK 360 res, with an MCP655 B pump carrying the load.

  4. #4
    Moderator Array Nate152 PC Specs
    Nate152 PC Specs
    MotherboardROG Maximus IX Code
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    Memory (part number)16GB G.Skill Trident Z 4025MHz 17-17-17-39-2T
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    Graphics Card #2Titan Xp
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    It's hard to say without being able to see how it's running but you could try remounting your waterblock and while you have it off do a repaste of the thermal compound.

    Do your rads blow warm/hot air?

    If they are NOT blowing warm/hot air then yes it needs to be remounted.

  5. #5
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    On my iPood now, will keep u updated, yanked the block and pulling out the loop now. I know the rad is good, it's blowing warm air. When I took off the top of the case the temps dropped about 2degrees as well. Going to pill apart the block and check the plate

  6. #6
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    Now that I think of it I remember my idle temps being around 38c

  7. #7
    Moderator Array Nate152 PC Specs
    Nate152 PC Specs
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    Memory (part number)16GB G.Skill Trident Z 4025MHz 17-17-17-39-2T
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    Graphics Card #2Titan Xp
    Sound CardROG SupremeFX 2015
    MonitorHP ZR30w
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    38c is still a bit high for idle temps and a custom loop.

    Are you getting good airflow through your radiator(s) and do you have fans in a push/pull configuration?

  8. #8
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    Just a push... But may put pull on now

  9. #9
    Moderator Array Nate152 PC Specs
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    Memory (part number)16GB G.Skill Trident Z 4025MHz 17-17-17-39-2T
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    Yeah you can give that a try that should help bring down temps too.

    One thing I forgot to mention is you want to use high static pressure fans on your radiators.

  10. #10
    ROG Enthusiast Array Goggle Eye PC Specs
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    MotherboardRampage lV Black Edition
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    Before I would recommend replacing the Thermal Compound what Thermal Compund was used?

    May or may not be the thermal compound. You may be aware of the following?

    1. Have you tested to see what the volume flow is in the loops? Could be build up restricting the flow?
    2. What coolant are you using?
    3. Does the coolant have dyes in it?
    4. Have you checked the inside of the tubing to see if it is breaking down. Fesser tubing can be an issue my experience in the past. Switched from Fesser to Tygon use Tygon period with Distilled water, no dyes 9 years ago.
    5. Have you broken down the loops and cleaned the system including water blocks, radiators, replaced all of the O rings, Tubing and coolant?
    6. Then check for leaks.

    Had issues with Fesser tubing in the past breaking down. Especially with there coolant. Ran the system for three months and had issues. Changed over to Tygon, Distilled water no dyes 9 years ago and never looked back. Dyes in coolant will be an issue and start to break down after 6 to 12 months depending on product and hardware components. Even with distilled water maintenance needs to be done every 12 to 14 months. Check and double check.

    1. Drain the system
    2. Check the inside of the tubing. If any residue replace all tubing. Check close to a water block or at the pump.
    3. Replace all O Rings on all hardware has O rings.
    4. Clean the radiators.
    5. Check for leaks when the system is back up and running.



    You may have an issue with the tubing braking down and dyes build up in the water blocks cause a flow restriction and or Thermal compound.
    CaseLabs Magnum 8
    Asus Rampage 4 Black Edition
    I7 4930K 4.5GHz
    Noctua NH D14
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    2x GTX 780 S.C.
    PSU Corsair AX 1500 I
    2 x Samsung 850 Pro 2 Tbs Each
    2 x Intel 730 Series 480 GBs Each
    Sound On Board

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