Hey

If you take the time to fine tune everything there is no reason to have a "super duper ultra stable non-oc setting". If you have the proper cooling and time, do things right and you'll never have to switch. A good OC will be stable whatever the conditions. Although, every cpu differs from another in terms of performance and attainable voltages. If you absolutely want a non-oc profile then do it, there no harm to it 😄

Have fun!

Max

Also ... this is off topic but... i connected my H100i GTX i just got and it says 600rpm in asus bios on the pump "cable" ( i plugged it in to my CPU fan header ).

Also no idea if you are supposed to plug it in to the CPU header or just straight to power.

Also i noticed that when XMP is enabled they set the cpu cache ratio to 24 ... should i keep it at 24 ? i wanted to overclock CPU to about 4GHz

There may be situations where 100 is better than 125 and vice versa, but I'm not so sure in reality. I've been running a 125 base clock for months with no issues.

This is just a suggestion, I would enable XMP, which will adjust your base clock, DRAM frequency, DRAM voltage, and DRAM timings automatically to the manufacturers XMP specs for better OC stability. From there, you can adjust the CPU ratio and core voltage, your cache ratio(s) and voltage, and so on.

Just because your running OC'd all the time doesn't mean that your CPU, DRAM, GPU, and other resources are being used 100% of the time. This is where you would need to adjust the power plan settings in your operating system. I have mine set for performance, but I lowered my CPU minimum to 5%. The other items will run when they need to, unless you adjusted those manually. Keep in mind, all OC will degrade your parts, but I have made CPUs last for many years on modest to high overclocks; this will vary from part to part. Also, at least to me, an unstable OC is not a true OC at all. Anyone can press the gas pedal to the floor, but that doesn't mean your engine won't blow.

About your CPU cooler, I'm unsure about it's particulars, but with water cooling, you usually have two sets of cables. The cable coming from the pump I plug into the CPU fan header. The other set (which could be split between the two fans), I plug into the CPU OPT header. The motherboard will detect this automatically. From there, you can adjust your cooling options in the BIOS and in the OS.

Regarding CPU cache ratio. This is somewhat a diverse subject. Some people say to leave it alone. Others say to keep it at, or at least within 500 Mhz, of your CPU. I personally run it around 200-300 Mhz under my CPU frequency. I usually set the minimum and maximum about 4 ratios apart. So, if my CPU is set at 35 ratio (4.375 at 125 base clock), I set the cache min and max to 29 and 33, accordingly. However, some CPUs will not accept a high cache frequency, so you may have to tune it.

I know this is alot to take in, but keep asking questions if you have more.

Connect the pump directly to the PSU is possible, or to the CPU header then disable the fan control in the Monitor section of the bios so the pump runs at 100%
all the time, put the fans on an axillary header and set them to turbo mode, the fans will then adjust according to temperature. 600rpm is the minimum the fan needs to run at before you will receive an error, you can also change the rpm setting to a lower value if necessary.
If I am not mistaken running your system on 100 blck allows options for adaptive voltage values to be set for CPU and Cache where the 125 blck may not.
That allows more fine tuning for your system to idle at lower voltage. To use 100 blck, set the XMP profile to set all the correct memory timings, manually set blck to 100, manually set the correct memory frequency for your kit, the enter a for your cpu and cache frequency which will set auto.
Your CPU will run at all defaults and your memory at XMP value at 100 blck. This will make it a little easier to start overclocking in small steps if you so desire