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Insane GPU & CPU Temps in G74S

TheDoci
Level 7
Well after using my G74S as my workstation ever since my main Worksation had a unfortunate run in with the force of Gravity, and the very impressive force of my cousins stupidity.
I had my G74S for about 4 years now, (if i recall correctly, i bought it sometime in early 2012. It had been my backup / mobile system for a while (also my lanparty system). But about 1 1/2 years ago my main rig was murdered, and i switched to the G74 for my work / study.

I have been using very CPU and GPU intensive tasks, not including gaming on it.
A few months ago, i noticed the fans where spinning a bit loudly, but i chalked it up to the summer temperatures. Well now, that the ambient temps are down, i though the fans would be quieter as well. But that was not the case. About 1/2 year ago the GPU temps where at 61°C, now they are at a insane 85 to 90°C at idle with ambient temps of 22°C. The CPU is the same story.
The keyboard is also very hot.

The fun thing is, the temps where at about 40°C or so when i got it. I am not sure what has happened to it. Could it be the Thermal Compound going bad, or could it be dust in the heat sinks?

I am currently tempted to just open it up, and check the heat sinks (and clean it if needed), but i dont feel like taking the laptop apart.

Since i have some CPU and GPU intensive work coming up soon, i would not want to have my CPU run at over 100°C. Or use LN2 to make it work.

Has anyone else have this issue?
If so, what was the solution.

Also if its the thermal compound, do you guys have any recommendations for good compound to use, my favorite was ZALMAN ZM STG1, but i can no longer get it.

Or should i just send the laptop in to asus (even though i no longer have warenty on it) and have them deal with the problems?

Also, yes there is air comming out of the vents.
Specs:
Crosshair V Formula AM3+
FX-8350 at 4.2 GHz
Mugen II rev 3 heatsink Push pull
GTX 690
8GB Corsair Dual-Channel @ 1333MHz
Samsung 840 Pro @ 512 GB and 6TB of other drives
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17 REPLIES 17

Clintlgm
Level 14
Yes it could be just dust accumulation, and you could try to clean it out. you'll have to disassemble to actually get to the heat sinks etc. and if they are not that clogged up. you almost there to go ahead and repaste. It seem that IC Diamond is the best past for notebooks these days. Be sure to read the instruction and follow them for a good pasting.
I think if I were to send it anywhere it might be to a custom vendor. or if you have a good local shop to do the repasting. If you do decide to do it yourself Goggle the disassembly there will be some video's that will show you how. Its not like a desktop things are more fragile and not straight forward. hidden screws etc.
You issue does sound like the pasting has failed.
G752VY-DH72 Win 10 Pro
512 GB M.2 Samsung 960 Pro
1 TB Samsung 850 pro 2.5 format
980m GTX 4 GB
32GB DDR 4 Standard RAM

Z97 PRO WiFi I7 4790K
Windows 10 Pro
Z97 -A
Windows 10 Pro

I have repasted a laptop CPU Before, but that was almost 4 years ago, and the laptop was not all to good / expensive (also i got it for free, since it was basically broken).
But back then i used the Zahlman stuff i mentioned earlier. (also the dis-assembly was a lot easier then what i have seen with the G74). I will however give it a try, and order the IC Diamond thermal compound (i actually had some a while ago, but it has dried up).


Also, fascinating observation, today, the GPU and CPU are only at 65°C Idle (but i do have a lot less stuff going on, since i just booted it a hour or so ago).
I am unsure what caused the temps to soar as high as they did yesterday, but i will at least clean out the heat sinks and fans.
Specs:
Crosshair V Formula AM3+
FX-8350 at 4.2 GHz
Mugen II rev 3 heatsink Push pull
GTX 690
8GB Corsair Dual-Channel @ 1333MHz
Samsung 840 Pro @ 512 GB and 6TB of other drives

Yes on the IC Diamond it is very thick. A trick we use is to hold the tube in some hot water that will thin it out. It is also very important to use a Pea size drop in the center of the CPU and GPU do not spread it out. Tightening down evenly on the clamp screws. Look on there website for these directions very important. Your Idle temps should be no higher than low to mid 40's C @23C Ambient.
Temp will clime as you start using it. no mystery there. Cleaning may be enough if you find the heat sinks clogged with a blanket of dust, if you get it apart and don't see a lot of clogging probably would be best to repaste while you have it apart.
G752VY-DH72 Win 10 Pro
512 GB M.2 Samsung 960 Pro
1 TB Samsung 850 pro 2.5 format
980m GTX 4 GB
32GB DDR 4 Standard RAM

Z97 PRO WiFi I7 4790K
Windows 10 Pro
Z97 -A
Windows 10 Pro

Almighty1
Level 9
Your issue might be related to this:
https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?3322-Sandybridge-Throttle-Issue-and-Workaround

IC Diamond causes corrosion. Gelid GC Extreme is supposedly the best. I had replaced TIM on Dell notebooks before with Arctic Silver 5 about 10 years ago and it was way better.

Korth
Level 14
Gelid GC Extreme is low-viscosity (it's thin and runny), best used when mating surfaces are interlocking or have very tight contact tolerances. It cooks/dries out faster and sometimes need reapplication (on very hot parts) every few months. It has excellent performance and seems to have the best (or "least worst") performance in subzero overclocking.

Prolimatech PK-2 is mid-viscosity (sort of average), best overall TIM for most parts in my opinion. It adheres really well and can last many months or a few years before dryout. It also has excellent performance. PK-3 is supposedly even better (never tried it because my big jar of PK-2 is still half-full, lol).

Arctic Silver 5 is mid-/high-viscosity (kinda thick and pasty), it's a better choice on large-gap, planar, or slightly convex/concave surfaces (like LGA2011-3 processors) because it stays where you put it and maintains great performance pretty much forever (the stuff takes years to cook off). It's also really cheap. I sometimes even use it as a thermally-conductive glue, lol.

IC Diamond contains abrasive microparticles which promote metal corrosion and - after repeated applications - can actually scratch off part markings. Many people swear by it, I've never used it.

Phobya He-Grease and Tuniq TX-4 are about as good (some say better) than PK-3 or AS5, but again I've never tried them.

The reality is that any premium TIM will outperform any cheap TIM and the actual measurable differences are nearly insignificant among top performers - each brand has passionate diehards and vehement haters, I suspect conflicting benchmark results usually have more to do with variances in application method or quirky heat sources than with substantially differing TIM characteristics - my personal experience is that the main difference between TIMs is their viscosity/adhesion parameters, no single TIM can be absolutely perfect for every possible application because each is better suited for a different kind of interface geometry.

You can be assured that any properly-applied premium TIM product will outperform that cheap pink goop Asus put into your machine.
"All opinions are not equal. Some are a very great deal more robust, sophisticated and well supported in logic and argument than others." - Douglas Adams

[/Korth]

One comment virtually evey custom notebook vendor offers a repaste using IC Diamond on all there notebooks sold. notebooks are not desktops an have different requirements. My 4790K idles in the 20'' C I've never gotten it over 60C even with burn in test. IC Diamond it exactly that Ground diamond with a bonding agent very thick when cool, hot water Warming it up makes it more fluid for installation.
G752VY-DH72 Win 10 Pro
512 GB M.2 Samsung 960 Pro
1 TB Samsung 850 pro 2.5 format
980m GTX 4 GB
32GB DDR 4 Standard RAM

Z97 PRO WiFi I7 4790K
Windows 10 Pro
Z97 -A
Windows 10 Pro

Hm, very interesting,

I still have about 1/2 a tube of Artic MX-2 lying around, i don't know the dry out time of it, i use it on my main rig, and reapply it every year.
If the dry out time is decent, then i might use it, instead of arctic silver, or IC Diamond.
Specs:
Crosshair V Formula AM3+
FX-8350 at 4.2 GHz
Mugen II rev 3 heatsink Push pull
GTX 690
8GB Corsair Dual-Channel @ 1333MHz
Samsung 840 Pro @ 512 GB and 6TB of other drives

Almighty1
Level 9
I always thought it was the AS5 that was the one that dries out and requires application as that's what I read. I still have like 10 tubes of AS5 which are over 7 years old and I noticed that it's runny as it's stored with the tip down, do I just discard the thin part and use only the thick part? How does one use AS5 as a thermally conductive glue? So with IC Diamond, it's actually the diamond particles that causes the corrosion? Is IC Diamond similar to how thick Shin Etsu 751? What should one use for a LG G4 Smartphone as it has thermal grease and I heard some people replaced it with AS5 and it works better than stock.

I was looking at the chart here a week ago:
http://www.play3r.net/reviews/cooling/best-thermal-paste-2015-update/

They seem to only cover the PK1 but not the PK2 and PK3.

Korth
Level 14
Old TIMs can chemically separate over long storage times. And consistency can vary from batch to batch. It's a good idea to warm the TIM up (float the tube inside some heated water) for a few minutes then - if possible - to mix the contents of the entire container to an even consistency, like you would do with a can of old paint. The diluted runny part is just as valuable as the sludgy thick precipate, and the TIM will only perform as it was engineered to do if all of the substance that comes out of the bottle is the same as it was when it was when they put it into the bottle.

I actually tend to work with TIM out of small resealable containers, not squeezed out of tubes and syringes directly onto the parts. Most of my CPU and GPU applications involve putting the TIM onto a razor blade and scraping it across both mating surfaces. I want an even application with the minimal amount of TIM I can use to interface the gap (because the TIM is a far better thermal conductor than air/vacuum but it's a far, far worse thermal conductor than heatsink metals) so I scrape it down as fine as I can.

Actual application method and precise thermal properties of the TIM are not as critical as most people think unless you're shooting for elite extreme momentary overclock records. Proper quantity of TIM is far more important. Proper coverage of TIM is far more important.

I use AS5 as a "thermal adhesive" in the sense that it's thick and sticky (and cheap) enough to mechanically and thermally secure little parts together, especially if the parts are then also bolted or fastened down some other way. It's not a strong glue, lol, it won't hold things together on its own. Sometimes a normal TIM is insufficient to fill the gap while a foamy thermal pad is too bulky and a graphite strip isn't workable and a heat application of a phase-alloy or HOPG would damage components.

The microparticles in IC Diamond do not directly corrode metals. They abrade the surface (like a fine sandpaper) and the exposed metal is then exposed to atmospheric oxygen. Corrosion is then often accelerated by the eutectic and galvanic action of dissimilar metals held in a nonequilibrium state of sustained heat and pressure.

Shin Etsu formulas are, in my experience, remarkably similar to Gelic GC Extreme. I haven't used them a lot but I would expect them to work best in similar applications and have similar general properties.

You'll find lots of comprehensive TIM testing and comparisons online if you look hard enough. You'll also find the same handful of products are always listed as the top performers. Some of the testing "laboratories" do an excellent job and introduce proper controls into every detail - they'll carefully describe their testing components, testing conditions, application methods, etc. But none measure long-term performance, very few bother to even wait out full cure durations to obtain peak performance. My interest in TIMs is not about building a machine that'll break elite records for one day - it's about installing a TIM that'll perform for months or years at a time. Reviewers get to rip apart their hardware and play with new toys every week, I prefer to service computers maybe a couple times per year and not have to remount heatsinks until I install hardware upgrades.

Factories use cheap TIM, they probably buy big buckets of it and squirt it out of robotic nozzles, they're always interested in minimizing defects but chances are that defective units will pass QC diagnostics well enough then suffer thermal breakdown after a few months real use. As stated above, any premium TIM will easily outperform whatever cheap gunk the factory installed - in your ROG laptop, smartphone, TV box, whatever.
"All opinions are not equal. Some are a very great deal more robust, sophisticated and well supported in logic and argument than others." - Douglas Adams

[/Korth]