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  1. #951
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    Quote Originally Posted by adeptius View Post
    Hi guys! I finally drilled my PC)

    Test:
    Mass effect andromeda
    CPU -0.145v with Turbo Boost
    GPU my own profile1860 @ 862mV
    Fans +20%
    Room temp 26

    GPU load 88%
    CPU load 70%

    All tests was in absolutely same scene in game (i dont touch anything).

    Without bottom:
    RPM 3900
    Temp 66

    With stock bottom:
    RPM 5200
    Temp 80

    With drilled bottom:
    RPM 4200
    Temp 70
    Attachment 65438
    Attachment 65439
    Attachment 65440
    Attachment 65441

    By the way here is my GPU profile (choose profile 5)

    How does it work on ASUS GL-702VS BA007T?

  2. #952
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    I finally repaste my GL502VS with MX4, not noticeable heat drop, maybe 3-4º and, in adition, drill the bottom case (8 holes in each side)
    I use an old classic drill (not dremell or precission) so the result is not very beautiful, i prefer not upload a image, but it helps like additional 7-9 degress, and a base cooler helps another little, so my computer , undervolted, repasted and drilled, now seems not to exceed 76º .
    .. but i still having issues with this cra..mputer, seems battery, what will be the next?

  3. #953
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    Quote Originally Posted by GolFer View Post
    i'm not sorry you still have 230w egg boilers that can't out-perform a toaster.
    I hope you all learn, and next time decide on something built more accordingly.
    I learned just in time, and it seems most of you didn't.
    You know...my last three "gaming laptops" were all MSI brand, they always felt cheap and looked like they were designed for 13 year old, but I never once had an issue except I lost the keyboard backlights on one after about 18 months.

    When it came time for a new one (12 cores and a 1070) I decided to go with Asus. I've been a huge fan of the company since I bought a MB from them in ~1996. Every MB I've owned since then (at least a dozen) was Asus brand, even 2 of my 3 video cards are Asus. So I puchased a GL703GS-DS74. I eneded up returning it after about a week due to non-stop BSODs. Well the second one did it too, and now the 3rd. The reseller will not allow another return.

    Asus says I can send it in for service at my expense, but this is not a service problem it is ENGINEERING.

    I think this will be the last Asus product to ever enter my house, I am so mad I could spit.

  4. #954
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    Hi!
    GL702VMK (i7-7700HQ, GTX 1060) owner here. I'm willing to replace stock thermal paste and thermal "something" with Kryonaut and thermal pads from Thermal Grizzly.
    Can anyone confirm that 0.5mm and 1.0mm thicknesses of thermal pads are the right ones for GL702VMK?
    Would grizzly's 120x20mm thermal pad be enough to replace that thermal "something" on chips?

    Quote Originally Posted by Gatoxico View Post
    Hello, first of all, excuse my bad English, it is not my native language.
    Bored of the high temperatures, change the thermal paste of my gl702vm (i7 6700hq version and 305 bios), use thermal pad artic for the memories and others:

    ARCTIC Thermal Pad (50 x 50 x 0.5 mm) - Silicon Based Thermal Pad with 6.0W / mK Thermal Conductivity

    ARCTIC Thermal Pad (145 x 145 x 1.0 mm) - Silicon Based Thermal Pad with 6.0W / mK Thermal Conductivity

    (..)

    (I followed the same procedure of this video
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7glBCZr8ntI
    (..)
    Quote Originally Posted by Gatoxico View Post
    (..)

    I leave you an image, in red those that use 1mm and in green those of 0.5

    Attachment 67710

  5. #955
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    Quote Originally Posted by binaryLV View Post
    Hi!
    GL702VMK (i7-7700HQ, GTX 1060) owner here. I'm willing to replace stock thermal paste and thermal "something" with Kryonaut and thermal pads from Thermal Grizzly.
    Can anyone confirm that 0.5mm and 1.0mm thicknesses of thermal pads are the right ones for GL702VMK?
    Would grizzly's 120x20mm thermal pad be enough to replace that thermal "something" on chips?
    Grizzly pads are expanding while heating - so in it look likes the are right ones.

  6. #956
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    Hello.

    I thought it was normal to hear clicks whenever I started to hear a video or song. Searching the internet I saw that it could be the realtek driver or the latency. Then try the latencymon program and at least my pc has a lot of latency. I have managed to lower it a little below 1000, when the ideal is below 500. That is why we have a lot of stuttering in some games.

    I have tried many combinations of drivers and none let it down. We should be able to dump the bios and modify to access the hidden options in the bios, since we should turn off many things that would improve our laptop. But the truth is that I do not handle very well with AMIBCP_v5.0.1, and AFUWIN64.
    PLEASE, Can someone please modify the last bios of the GL502VM to access all these options?

    You can see this thread:
    https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthrea...tings-revealed
    https://forums.geforce.com/default/t...commendations/
    https://www.overclock.net/forum/6-in...-hardware.html


    I recommend installing TWEAK II GPU. In my gt1060 it lets me do overclocking: GPU CLOCK +190, memory clock +550. I can play the Witcher 3 on ultra without almost raising the temperature.


    The last thing is that the notebookfancontrol app add a lot of dpc latency. You can check it too. It may be that you are spending the gl702vm profile, but it should be the same.

    Regards

  7. #957
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    So I've been following this thread since about April 2017 when I bought my GL502VMK... and tried many many combinations of things to get the temps down.
    Over a year later I have it where everything is comfortable on my system.

    -CPU-
    I've ran many comprehensive stress tests with all different types of programs and real world testing, and came to the conclusion for my CPU -120mV to -125mV is a safe area. I must have won the silicon lottery because my kabylake i7 can hold -150mV under load (I've read people struggle to get -125mV) BUT after -125mV my heat to performance loss ratio is too high... basically i get a 1 degree difference running a -125mV to a -150mV and on some bench-marking software, that 25mV difference crushes some scores. So I'm holding a -125mV on CPU core and Cache -50mV on Inel GPU.
    Depending on the program I'm running, I'll swap TurboBoost on or off... when I'm running around the web or running a game that isn't very CPU intensive I'll swap it on. When it comes to games such as PUBG which destroys my CPU, I'll run it with turbo off and to be honest there isn't a noticeable drop in frames. I have adjusted my TPL to 35w for long and short.

    -GPU-
    For my GPU, onjox's profile didn't do it for me, so I decided to adjust my GPU curve on my own and have my 1060 reach its maximum stock frequency at .900mV.... It took some messing around but where I have my GPU I haven't seen it go above 70.

    -Software-
    Now, since this laptop has G-Sync, I personally see no reason in running any FPS above 60.... sure PUBG and BF1 can all hit 100fps on these systems.. but why tax the system that much? I locked all my games (with a few exceptions) at 60fps. CSGO I locked at 180 because of a bunch of stuff I don't know how to explain regarding input lag, not running v-sync, and frame buffering basically 180fps is giving me the closest time between frames or something....

    Now on the opposite end if the spectrum, I locked Witcher 3 at 40fps... running 60fps on Witcher 3 doesn't benefit me in anyway, but being able to reduce how many frames my computer is trying to push I'm able to pump up my graphics settings quite a bit without compromising heat or performance...
    There's lots of methods on how to lock frames, best that I've found is RivaTuner.

    -Physical-
    The only physical modification to my rig was change out the paste on the CPU and GPU with the infamous grizzly conductonaut liquid metal.
    No drilling or added laptop coolers.. all factory except for the paste.


    Now here are some pictures of the temps I'm achieving.
    The picture of just GPU-Z is my idle temps with the fans on auto, sitting on my lap. CPU-33 GPU-36
    The picture showing my custom curve and MSI is with the laptop on my lap after a full match of BF1 CPU-67 GPU-59

    Any input would be appreciated, maybe someone else has a method I haven't used yet that could help some more, but I feel comfortable with these temps.. compared to the 80-90 degrees it was hitting out of the box.
    Miniatura de Adjuntos Miniatura de Adjuntos gpuz.jpg  

    all.jpg  


  8. #958
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eljefeuno View Post
    So I've been following this thread since about April 2017 when I bought my GL502VMK... and tried many many combinations of things to get the temps down.
    Over a year later I have it where everything is comfortable on my system.
    Well, it's seems the best results without physical interruption on chassis I've seen so far. Is it possible to provide AIDA 64 (graph temps) + GPU-Z logs (PerfCap is what i'm interested) in thread?

    Quote Originally Posted by Lord_suso View Post
    I recommend installing TWEAK II GPU. In my gt1060 it lets me do overclocking: GPU CLOCK +190, memory clock +550. I can play the Witcher 3 on ultra without almost raising the temperature.

    The last thing is that the notebookfancontrol app add a lot of dpc latency. You can check it too. It may be that you are spending the gl702vm profile, but it should be the same.
    Regards
    Is it possible to take a look on GPU-Z logs - i'm doing an analysis on PerfCap numbers.
    Last edited by McCoy; 09-17-2018 at 08:24 AM.

  9. #959
    ROG Enthusiast Array djbigbear PC Specs
    djbigbear PC Specs
    Laptop (Model)FX502VMZ
    MotherboardFX502VMZ
    Processori7 7700HQ
    Memory (part number)16GB
    Graphics Card #1GTX 1060 3GB
    Sound CardCM6206 external soundcard
    MonitorAUO B156HTN05.2 120hz
    Storage #1Samsung NVME 960 PRO 512GB
    Storage #2Samsung SATA 850 EVO 500GB
    Mouse M720 & G602
    Headset ATH-AD900
    Mouse Pad Steelseries Qck
    Headset/Speakers Mackie CR5BT
    OS Windows 10 64-bit
    Network RouterRT-N12HP N300
    Accessory #1 Deepcool multicore X6 cooling pad
    Accessory #2 Opolar LC06 vacuumcooler #1
    Accessory #3 Opolar LC06 vacuumcooler #2

    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by McCoy View Post
    Dremel (r) is a best way if you can handle it - or just buy cheap copy. Or take to some workshop.

    Applying Liquid Metal is not he same as for paste. I never tried to apply to chips directly - but i did application on CPU cover on desktop. MX4 will help, because factory application is awful (air bubbles).

    I definitely NOT recommend to use typical plastic duct tape - hot air from vents might melt it. So Alu will be great.

    And well ... maybe we can put a little copper radiator on this PCH chip? Someone tried?
    Somebody done this?Attachment 75506
    i tried using 2mm thick pure copper plate on it, doesn't make any difference. i assume it would be pointless as the thermal tape conductivity is minimal. using thermal glue is the only way to go, but i couldn't find a good one in my area.
    but i read that this PCH chipset isn't generating significant heat, so it doesn't really need extra cooling. i am more worried about the temp of my M2 SSD... it peaks at 85-90 degrees.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by djbigbear; 09-21-2018 at 08:03 AM.

  10. #960
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    My GL702VS lessons learned about cooling this thing.

    I have repasted this thing more than 25 times trying different methods of TIM application, different TIM's, different external fan assistance etc. Here are my conclusions and best results and why I think I got these results.

    All results are in a 75.5 F degree room.

    Bottom drilled out with several holes in a pattern where fan centers are located
    Single pci slot fan blowing toward the back center (I no longer tape it to the vent area, I just let it sit blowing toward me while it sits against the back center) See my thread for pics https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthrea...y-No-Seriously
    Two aquafina water bottle caps sitting under the back rubber feet. I like the slightly raised back for typing plus aids in cooling.
    TIM's applied in a very specific way

    In Windows cpu and gpu stressed maxed out:
    Max temps cpu = 75 C ---Fan boost at 30% set in ROG Center
    Max temps gpu = 69 C ---Fan boost at 30% set in ROG Center

    In Linux cpu and gpu stressed maxed out:
    Max temps cpu = 79 C ---No fan boost because I can't yet figure out how to do it in Linux
    Max temps gpu = 71 C ---No fan boost

    In Windows I used Intel tunning + furmark to torture, along with GTAV and Kerbal
    In Linux I've used </code> stress --cpu 8 + phoronix test suite, plus tested running kerbal

    The max temps are exactly that..the max's. Most of the time they are sitting around 3-5deg cooler than max.

    Only maxing out the CPU:

    In Windows - 63C max (using intel tuning stress)
    In Linux - 68C max (using stress --cpu 8)


    Now...How did I get this accomplished:

    #1 In windows cpu is undervolted by -.125v by intel tuning
    #2 In Linux cpu and gpu are undervolted by script -.125v

    #3 In windows fan boost set to 30% boost

    #4 Water bottle caps under the back rubber feet

    #5 PCI slot fan just sitting on desk facing laptop point at the rear center vent area blowing toward me (no longer taped to vent area)

    #6 Drilled holes in bottom panel in a pattern centered on fan intakes

    #7 Used blue painters tape to tape gaps between fan cases and heat pipes (Do not use metalized tape it just puts more heat in the case)

    #8 Applied thermal paste(s) in a VERY specific manner (this is the VERY important part)

    *** I'm sure that my thermal paste choices and application methods could generate a lot of heated debate, but I assure you I have repasted this thing no less than 25 times trying all different manners and combinations. So take it as it is intended. This is just My experience and nothing else.

    CPU - Antec Formula 7 using the line method
    GPU - Arctic MX4 using the spread method (x method worked well too maybe even a degree or two cooler)

    Memory chips + FET's (I think they are fets..anyhow whatever they are) - Used Antec Formula 7 in the pea method

    Very important...after applying the thermal pastes in these manners..DO NOT...repeat...DO NOT..push down on the heat pipes. Only gently place the heat pipes down and equally and evenly without pushing down on them. I was doing that to ensure good contact and it actually was squishing all TIM from the cpu. The gpu was fine, but the cpu was squished out and then it seemed to me due to tension was microscopically lifting off the cpu once I was no longer pushing down with my finger and just letting the screw brackets hold down the pipes. This was causing a +12C temps difference on the cpu.

    So again...just gently place the pipes evenly on the chips and then screw in the bracket screws in the order they are labeled. **Do not push down on the pipes at any time**

    I used quite a bit of different TIM's . The reason I settled on Antec Formula 7 for the cpu and memory and fets was because it is a thicker paste and yielded the best temps. This was best combined with MX4 on the gpu with the spread method (x method worked equally well and maybe a degree cooler but I didn't feel like repasting yet again and just left it as spread).

    When using the pea method on the memory and fets I used a more than typical amount you would use. The reason is because there is a slight gap because of the design which the factory used that goo as the bridge between the heat sinks and memory. The Antec Formula 7 is thick enough to stay put and soft enough to squish down to the proper thickness. This gets rid of the need to try different size thermal pads.

    With all those mods and techniques the temps on this thing are perfectly acceptable.

    The line method using Antec Formula 7 (**without pushing down on the pipes and just letting the brackets screw them down**) yields max temps of the cpu of 68C in Linux and 63C in Windows when only stressing the CPU (not loading up the gpu) in a 75.5 deg F room. That's darn good.

    As soon as I figure a way to boost the fans in Linux, I'll report back. But at this point the temps are so good I'm not too concerned.

    Anyhow...That's what I have come up with and it works very well. Hope it helps


    SpookyWatcher
    Last edited by SpookyWatcher; 09-22-2018 at 06:27 PM. Reason: edited to add painters tape on gaps

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