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  1. #11
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    Hi guys, got another small update. This time i also want you to help me with a decision, more at the end of this post.

    Quote Originally Posted by xeromist View Post
    The overall effect of that lighting is pretty good. I think it was worth the effort to make that diffusion box.
    Thanks, yeah i really love how it turned out and it's easy to create these boxes for different sizes now after i've done one.

    Before i start installing all the aluminium covers inside the case i had to finish the illuminated structural formula.
    I created an Inlay in CAD using the files which were used for the CNC milling.
    To make the inlay translucent i use PETG filament for this print. It will lose a bit of its clarity during the print but that's fine.



    The first layer still looks pretty clear.



    But as soon as it starts printing more layers it gets more "milky".



    Unfortunately the print failed as the freshly printed PETG didn't stick to the layer underneath.
    I changed some printing parameters and tried til it failed again. Always a challenge to get good results with a new type of filament.





    After a few tries it worked and the print got finished without problems. Still need to tweak the settings in future but for now this will do the job.



    I had to sand some edges since the inlay didn't fit properly.







    After that was done i took the new PSU cover and put it into the case to see how much space i have behind it.
    I wasn't sure if i was able to build another lightbox because i only have a few mm.





    I also hadn't enough Endlighten T acrylic anymore to make a rectangular lightbox. I could've cut the acrylic at an angle but that might lead to unequally illumination.

    So i ordered a piece of EL foil, an inverter and some filter foil from lee filters.



    After installing and testing the EL foil i noticed that it wasn't as bright as i expected .





    Usually i would just leave it as it is, it's not that bright during the day but enough when it get's darker. I also have everything here so why not use it.
    But when i was postprocessing these photos i found one that i took while searching for the right filter foil. I used my smartphone LED for the backlighting and that created a very different effect.
    The inlay gets more depth and looks like it's made out of crystals.



    What do you guys think? EL Foil for smooth backlighting or the LED variant to make it look more crystalline?

  2. #12
    TeamROG Moderator Array xeromist PC Specs
    xeromist PC Specs
    Laptop (Model)Dell Inspiron 15 7567
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    CPU CoolerWraith
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    I think the even lighting would probably better match your existing diffuse lighting but I don't believe you can ever plan a mod perfectly so I'd just experiment and see what works with your overall aesthetic.
    * Support disease research with Folding@Home *

    < < < Click the drop-down above my avatar for my PC specs!

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by xeromist View Post
    I think the even lighting would probably better match your existing diffuse lighting but I don't believe you can ever plan a mod perfectly so I'd just experiment and see what works with your overall aesthetic.
    I think i'll try the LED version first and see how it turns out. Even if i change my mind later on it won't be too hard to change the lighting.

  4. #14
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    I'm back with a small update. Took some time since i was in vacation but now i can continue working on it.
    Aquatuning sent me a new Light Panel for the XPX CPU Cooler since the one i have has blue instead of white LEDs.
    To make it fit better i needed the white LED so i can use the filter foil.

    With the colour problem solved i wanted to create a similar effect as with the illuminated 3d printed inlay i showed you in the last update.
    The plan is to reprint the exisiting inlay with PETG filament. To make this work i had to take exact measurements and create the new model in CAD.





    What you see here is the support structure generated in Slic3r, after the print you remove it.



    Let's see if it fits and put it back together.





    Definitely looks much better now.

    Today i received the last parts for the custom sleeved cables. I'm going with extensions for this build since it's faster and uses less material.



    For the next update i plan to finish the cables and the backlit aluminium cover, so i can start installing everything and build the water cooling loop.

  5. #15
    TeamROG Moderator Array xeromist PC Specs
    xeromist PC Specs
    Laptop (Model)Dell Inspiron 15 7567
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    Memory (part number)16GB Crucial Ballistix Elite 3600
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    MonitorBenQ BL3200PT
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    A wild Haribo appears!
    * Support disease research with Folding@Home *

    < < < Click the drop-down above my avatar for my PC specs!

  6. #16
    ROG Guru: White Belt Array startekselva PC Specs
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    MotherboardASUS RAMPAGE V EXTREME EDITION 10
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    Storage #1Toshiba Q300 Pro 512GB,OCZ VERTEX 4 128 GB
    Storage #2WD CAVIAR BLACK 1TB,Seagate SSHD 2TB
    CPU CoolerCOOLER MASTER TPC 812-NOCTUA NFP12 2X
    CaseCORSAIR GRAPHITE 600T(WITH SIDE PANEL)
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    3 D printer is good keep going

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by xeromist View Post
    A wild Haribo appears!
    Can't have aneough of these :P

    Thanks @ startekselva , really enjoy working with it.

    This week i worked a lot on this project and got a very big update ready. I started sleeving the cables and decided to use black, grey and yellow mdpc-x sleeve, this will give a nice contrast to the crystal blue coolant. For the yellow sleeve i chose white wire underneath, this makes the sleeve more vibrant.







    These alphacool combs work very good with mdpc-x sleeve which has some rougher meshes than other sleeves.
    Before putting the other end of the cables into the male connector i need to guide all the wires through my custom combs.



    This is the GPU cable.



    In the meantime i had a new little job for my 3D printer. I plan to install UV and white LEDs to illuminate the inside of the case later but i want to be able to turn it on and off. I ordered some little switches and printed a small cover for them. This will be attached to the back of the case.



    Made a rough cutout with the dremel.



    The edges still need to be sanded.





    Small but very effective. I love to create such things with the printer. It only costs a few cents (with the switches) and takes less than 5 minutes to make.
    Now before i install all the aluminium covers i need to prepare the pump. When designing the aluminium covers i measured everything as exactly as i could.
    To get a straight axis for the in- and outlet of the pump i had to turn it a bit. There are only a few mm space between the pump and the fins of the radiator later.



    Taking exact measurments is worth so much. The in and outlet are right undernath the holes.



    Let's get back to the printer, which is currently printing the small lightbox for the chemical formula. Look at these clean layers.



    To create the "crystal effect" i will only use a piece of LED Strip without a distribution plate.



    A quick test.



    And we're ready to attach it with double sided tape.



    I ended up putting another LED strip in there since some parts of the formula were too dark. Now i have the perfect effect that i was looking for.



    Turned down the exposure so you can see what it looks like. Cameras tend to make these things more white than they appear to our eyes.



    2 or 3 months ago i already put some coolant into the custom reservoir to see if it gets rusty and doesn't leak any water.
    Now i had to check if there are any residues inside the coolant. If so, i couldn't use this reservoir since it might destroy the pump or other parts of the loop.
    But everything was fine, the coolant was clear as day one and there was no rust inside the reservoir.





    I love this part of a build, especially when working with soft tubing. I really should do more soft tube builds..



    The first tricky part: connecting the pump under the aluminium cover.





    It got even more tricky when i wanted to connect the reservoir with the pump.



    I think it's time to put the hardware in there.



    Made a fast cutout on the top radiator mount to place an inlet right above the reservoir.





    My aim for the tubing was to achieve this "chemical lab" look, tubes going everywhere and stuff like that. It's easy to put more tube in there as needed, but i had to find the balance between too much/messy and too less. And after 2 or 3 hours i think i got what i wanted.



    No tubes are touching each other, made use of possible short connections (CPU Block -> Top radiator) and even got some kind of looping when i connected the GPU block with the front radiator.
    Time for some crystal blue coolant.



    It looks very dark in the bottle, but it gets just the right colour inside the tubes.





    Didn't want to include the loop filling in this update, but i thought i might tease you a little bit. Stay tuned!

  8. #18
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    Sorry for the long pause guys, i wanted to finish this project already but i had to much other stuff going on at that time. This will most likely be the last post before i can show you the final pictures since i had to do some changes. The tubing i used started to get really dirty so i had to tear down the whole loop. Turned out there was some greasy residue on the inside of the tubing. I swapped it out and got some Mayhems Clear 13/10 tubing and even after a few weeks it still looks like the first day. I also redesigned the loop since some tubes started to kink, the new one looks way cleaner and doesn't block the view on the inside anymore.





    Next step was to add some lighting to the build. As you might remember i already installed 2 switches on the back of the case so i can turn the light on and off. To attach the LEDs i printed a little bar that can be mounted underneath the top radiator. Here you see two prints, the first one failed and is only used to demonstrate what the prints looks before sanding and spraypainting it. After some post processing you can't tell anymore if it's printed or not.





    I always use these high density strips with 120 LEDs/m. One of them got white LEDs, the other one UV. So no RGB in this build





    Please don't mind the cables on the bottom, it's only the back of the case



    This one is a little blurry but i think you can see how the LED bar looks like.
    I plan to change the side panel to the new tempered glass version but i'm not going to make another update for this, since all i need to do is drill 4 holes and attach it.


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