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  1. #1251
    New ROGer Array
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    When I bought the board from the store on Sunday, the salesperson said they have arrived for three days. So it's earlier than most but definitely not a few weeks.

    I share the itchiness here. I built my 6950x rig not long ago. This is my first ROG board though. My 6950x sits on a crappy Gigabyte Designare. It's so itchy that I went out to buy the board without the CPU... :-)

    Michael**

  2. #1252
    ROG Guru: Brown Belt Array Brighttail PC Specs
    Brighttail PC Specs
    Laptop (Model)Asus G751JT
    MotherboardAsus x299 Rampage VI Extreme
    ProcessorIntel i9-7900x
    Memory (part number)Corsair Dominator Platinum SE 3200Mhz 4x8
    Graphics Card #1MSI GTX 1080TI
    MonitorAcer XB321HK (4k,IPS,G-sync)
    Storage #1Intel 900p (Boot) 2xSM961 (RAID 0) Games
    Storage #2Samsung 850 Pro 512GB - WD Black 4TB
    CPU CoolerCustom Water Cool
    CasePhanteks Enthoo Elite
    Power SupplyCorsair AX 1200i
    Keyboard Corsair Platinum 95
    Mouse Asus SPATHA
    Mouse Pad Corsair MM800
    Headset/Speakers Kanyo Y5
    OS Windows 10 64 bit
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    So I've got another dilemma. I have a Phanteks Enthoo Primo case. I'm looking to upgrade or change things up. The Enthoo Elite is a little out of my price range at $1300CAD. I know there is the Lian Li v3000 coming out, but I'm not sure when. My main issue is i went with 140mm fans. I have like 10 of them. So I'm not wanting to go to a 240mm rad or a 380, when I have a 280 and 420mm. Not many cases fit a 420mm radiator.
    Panteks Enthoo Elite / Asus x299 Rampage VI Extreme / Intel I9-7900X / Corsair Dominator RGB 3200MHz
    MSI GTX 1080 TI / 2x Intel 900p / Samsung 970 Pro 512GB
    Samsung 850 PRO 512GB / Western Digital Gold 8TB HD
    Corsair AX 1200i / Corsair Platinum K95 / Asus Chakram
    Acer XB321HK 4k, IPS, G-sync Monitor / Water Cooled / Asus G571JT Laptop

  3. #1253
    ROG Enthusiast Array Franziska PC Specs
    Franziska PC Specs
    MotherboardRampage V Extreme
    Processor5930K
    Memory (part number)Corsair DP DDR4 2800 16GB (4x4)
    Graphics Card #1GTX 980
    Sound CardFostex HP-A3 (USB)
    MonitorNEC PA272W
    Storage #1Samsung 850 Pro 512GB
    Storage #2Seagate Constellation ES.3 4TB (2x RAID0)
    CPU CoolerAquacomputer Kryus Cuplex (Custom WC Loop)
    CaseCorsair 750D
    Power SupplySeasonic Platinum 1000W
    Keyboard Ducky Shine 3 TKL
    Mouse Mionix Avior 7000
    OS Windows 8.1 Pro x64

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    Quote Originally Posted by Brighttail View Post
    So I've got another dilemma. I have a Phanteks Enthoo Primo case. I'm looking to upgrade or change things up. The Enthoo Elite is a little out of my price range at $1300CAD. I know there is the Lian Li v3000 coming out, but I'm not sure when. My main issue is i went with 140mm fans. I have like 10 of them. So I'm not wanting to go to a 240mm rad or a 380, when I have a 280 and 420mm. Not many cases fit a 420mm radiator.
    Get a Caselabs. I have the Merlin SM8 and don't even look at any other cases anymore, nothing comes close. Its like $650CAD now, not bad at all for what you get. You can install a 420 + 280 in it, or 480 + 360, or mix it up. Lots of options.

  4. #1254
    ROG Guru: Brown Belt Array tistou77 PC Specs
    tistou77 PC Specs
    MotherboardRampage VI Extreme Encore
    Processor10980XE @4.6Ghz
    Memory (part number)G.Skill Trident Z RGB Royal 4x8Gb @4000 C16
    Graphics Card #1EVGA RTX 2080ti XC Ultra
    Sound CardXonar Phoebus
    MonitorDell U2721DE
    Storage #1Intel Optane 905P PCIe
    Storage #2Samsung 980 Pro
    CPU CoolerWatercooling
    CaseLian Li A77F
    Power SupplySeasonic Prime Ultra Titanium 1000W
    Keyboard Logitech LIK
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    OS Windows 10 Pro x64
    tistou77's Avatar
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    Those who will put a Monoblock, you could indicate the temps of the VRMs and CPU ?
    When I tested the Monoblock on R5E, it was much less efficient than separate blocks
    Ek can be improved their products
    Sorry for my english


    Case: Lian Li A77F
    MB: Rampage VI Extreme Encore
    CPU: i9 10980XE
    RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB Royal 4x8Gb @4000 C16
    GPU: EVGA RTX 2080ti XC Ultra
    PSU: Seasonic Prime Ultra Titanium 1000W
    OS: Intel Optane 905P PCIe
    DATA: Samsung 980 Pro
    SOUND: Asus Xonar Phoebus

  5. #1255
    ROG Guru: Orange Belt Array
    Join Date
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    Woohoo! Santa Claus arrived today, dressed in a FedEx uniform, and delivered three boxes of R6E. Initial inspection of all three mobos show pristine socket pins without a single bent socket pin, and not a single scratch or blemish on the PCIe and I/O cover plating, so that is always a good way to start. I also use a large magnifying glass to look for physical defects.

    None of the mobo companies use security seals on their mobo boxes or bags these days, and I think that is dumb. But don't be alarmed if your R6E mobo has many smudges and some fingerprints all over the flat surfaces. For a newly released premium mobo, this is the oldest and dirtiest-looking "new" mobo that I have ever seen. The plastic protective cover on the I/O cover is curled up on all three mobos. The black PCH cover with the ROG logo does not have a protective cover, but they all have a smudged outline that tracks the polygonal shape of the PCH cover which looks like there was previously a plastic protective cover on them, but Asus decided to remove them, probably because these mobos were already produced and ready for shipment back in July and they sat for so long in warehouses that the plastic sheets had started to peel off. After der8auer complained about the VRM temps on his YouTube channel in July and Asus redesigned the Apex/Extreme VRM heatsinks, I think that Asus then opened up many hundreds of ready-to-ship boxes and replaced the VRM and I/O cover heatsinks and heatpipe, which would explain the curled-up plastic sheet on the I/O cover and some fingerprints. The clear plastic sheet covering the PCIe armor is the only area that actually looks pristine.

    I have an EKWB monoblock for the MSI X299 Pro Carbon that I previously used in a build for an engineer friend at the end of July, but she wanted me to use the art glass that I am planning for the R6E, so I took apart her MSI build to also rework the tubing. Just through visual comparison, I placed the MSI monoblock over the R6E mobo and it looks like it is nearly identical in size to the EK R6E monoblock, with the main difference being different VRM heatsink screw hole alignments. So the actual nickel and clear acrylic on the monoblock looks identical between the R6E and MSI versions and it looks like EK just attached a different two-screw mounting block on the two brands of monoblock. And if EK really offers neither a 10G-chip heatsink nor WB_SENSOR support after delaying the release a full month after their initial end-of-August statements, that would be an underachievement since their R6E monoblock is nearly identical to their other X299 monoblocks.

    der8auer posted his review of the EK monoblock for the MSI X299 Pro Carbon this morning, which also fits their M7 ACK X299 mobo, and unlike EK's claims that the monoblock cools the CPU better than their Supremacy Evo, he found the monoblock's CPU temps to be 2 to 3 degrees higher than the CPU-only Evo, which is the more logical expectation. But the VRM temps were lowered by a big 30 to 50 degrees-C at 4.5 and 4.8 GHz, whereas the Kraken AIO throttled at 4.8. It's a good video and I fully agree with him that clear coolant looks best inside the RGB-lit clear-nickel monoblock:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HnMXr7KRPy8

    i need to get back to work after eating lunch. But later today, I hope to put on my anti-static smock, mat, and wrist strap and take apart the VRM heatsink assembly and I/O cover to look around and see what dimensions of 10G-chip heatsink will fit under the I/O cover, in case EK does not provide a heatsink. The I/O cover heatsink is mounted to the mobo using two screws, and another two screws mount the I/O cover, with a 9-pin cable connecting the I/O OLED display to the OLED_HEADER on the mobo, so this should be very easy to take apart.

    EDIT: der8auer also suggested using the biggest radiator that will fit your case so the monoblock's CPU temps will then match the CPU-only Evo block. I am using the 60mm-thick EK CoolStream XE 360, which I am actually going to mount on top of the case, with three ML120s on top pushing intake air and three ML120s underneath the top panel pulling intake air.
    Last edited by DragonPurr; 09-19-2017 at 09:30 PM.

  6. #1256
    ROG Guru: Brown Belt Array Brighttail PC Specs
    Brighttail PC Specs
    Laptop (Model)Asus G751JT
    MotherboardAsus x299 Rampage VI Extreme
    ProcessorIntel i9-7900x
    Memory (part number)Corsair Dominator Platinum SE 3200Mhz 4x8
    Graphics Card #1MSI GTX 1080TI
    MonitorAcer XB321HK (4k,IPS,G-sync)
    Storage #1Intel 900p (Boot) 2xSM961 (RAID 0) Games
    Storage #2Samsung 850 Pro 512GB - WD Black 4TB
    CPU CoolerCustom Water Cool
    CasePhanteks Enthoo Elite
    Power SupplyCorsair AX 1200i
    Keyboard Corsair Platinum 95
    Mouse Asus SPATHA
    Mouse Pad Corsair MM800
    Headset/Speakers Kanyo Y5
    OS Windows 10 64 bit
    Accessory #1 2 x Alphacool Full Copper Radiator 420mm/280mm
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    Accessory #3 Monsoon Free Center Compression Fittings

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    Quote Originally Posted by DragonPurr View Post

    der8auer posted his review of the EK monoblock for the MSI X299 Pro Carbon this morning, which also fits their M7 ACK X299 mobo, and unlike EK's claims that the monoblock cools the CPU better than their Supremacy Evo, he found the monoblock's CPU temps to be 2 to 3 degrees higher than the CPU-only Evo, which is the more logical expectation. But the VRM temps were lowered by a big 30 to 50 degrees-C at 4.5 and 4.8 GHz, whereas the Kraken AIO throttled at 4.8. It's a good video and I fully agree with him that clear coolant looks best inside the RGB-lit clear-nickel monoblock:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HnMXr7KRPy8

    i need to get back to work after eating lunch. But later today, I hope to put on my anti-static smock, mat, and wrist strap and take apart the VRM heatsink assembly and I/O cover to look around and see what dimensions of 10G-chip heatsink will fit under the I/O cover, in case EK does not provide a heatsink. The I/O cover heatsink is mounted to the mobo using two screws, and another two screws mount the I/O cover, with a 9-pin cable connecting the I/O OLED display to the OLED_HEADER on the mobo, so this should be very easy to take apart.

    EDIT: der8auer also suggested using the biggest radiator that will fit your case so the monoblock's CPU temps will then match the CPU-only Evo block. I am using the 60mm-thick EK CoolStream XE 360, which I am actually going to mount on top of the case, with three ML120s on top pushing intake air and three ML120s underneath the top panel pulling intake air.
    Good write up and good suggestions. I had expected that the simple size of the monoblock would add temperature rather than lower it, so der8auer's review isn't surprising at all. I currently have a 140x420x30mm and 140x280x60mm radiators. I'm looking around for another case or other options of routing my current loop but I was going to look at the EK CE 480. It will be 45mm instead of 30mm which should give a little better heat transfer. I'm curious as to why you would intake from the top when heat naturally rises. I mean if you have good airflow it wouldn't matter too much but it is easier to draw cool air in from the bottom/front/back and exhaust at the top.

    Since the 7900x is going to be putting out more heat than my 5820x, I've been looking at various ways to either increase air flow, cooling flow or possibly adding a second pump and cooling the GPU separately from the CPU, which would probably be the best. My case does have that option to mount a smaller pump/reservoir on the backside of the case.

    I've looked at the Lian Li v3000 and the phanteks Enthoo Elite. Both would suit me tho the Lian Li is less expensive. I have seen many caselabs cases that could work but I'm not a fan of what aesthetics. They are also aluminum so my magnetic RGBs would have to be stuck on.

    Honestly I've got the Motherboard ordered and I am happy to wait on my other parts as I plan my build. I want to do this right so I only have to do it once. I've been toying with the thought of hardline tubing and instead of bending the tube, do straight lines and let the fittings make the bends. A cop out I know but I'm really fearful of bending my own tubes. Of course I may stick with soft tubing. I like the ability to do minor adjustments without having to drain the whole system.

    I'm still deciding on the acrylic see through monoblock or the black. I have an acrylic GPU cover that looks awesome when it is mounted vertically, but I went through three PCI-e ribbons that failed on me, so i think I'm done with that experiment, plus having it vertically would cover the beauty of the motherboard. My build is black/red, so either the black mono block or the acrylic with red fluid would work. here are a couple of pictures of my rig, both with the GPU being vertical and being normal. With the lights out, the red of the RAM really pops and with light, the red of the fluid pops. Currently I'm leaning towards the Black monoblock with a non-vertical GPU. Thoughts?

    Edit. Just finished watching that video. 40-50C under full load for the the VRM is a HUGE difference. Now I'm not expecting anything I do to get the VRM up to the point where it is throttling in my daily usage, but if I have to sacrifice 2-3 degrees on the CPU cooling for 10,15,20, 30 degrees on the VRM, that is a trade off I'll take any day.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Brighttail; 09-19-2017 at 06:50 PM.
    Panteks Enthoo Elite / Asus x299 Rampage VI Extreme / Intel I9-7900X / Corsair Dominator RGB 3200MHz
    MSI GTX 1080 TI / 2x Intel 900p / Samsung 970 Pro 512GB
    Samsung 850 PRO 512GB / Western Digital Gold 8TB HD
    Corsair AX 1200i / Corsair Platinum K95 / Asus Chakram
    Acer XB321HK 4k, IPS, G-sync Monitor / Water Cooled / Asus G571JT Laptop

  7. #1257
    ROG Guru: Brown Belt Array Brighttail PC Specs
    Brighttail PC Specs
    Laptop (Model)Asus G751JT
    MotherboardAsus x299 Rampage VI Extreme
    ProcessorIntel i9-7900x
    Memory (part number)Corsair Dominator Platinum SE 3200Mhz 4x8
    Graphics Card #1MSI GTX 1080TI
    MonitorAcer XB321HK (4k,IPS,G-sync)
    Storage #1Intel 900p (Boot) 2xSM961 (RAID 0) Games
    Storage #2Samsung 850 Pro 512GB - WD Black 4TB
    CPU CoolerCustom Water Cool
    CasePhanteks Enthoo Elite
    Power SupplyCorsair AX 1200i
    Keyboard Corsair Platinum 95
    Mouse Asus SPATHA
    Mouse Pad Corsair MM800
    Headset/Speakers Kanyo Y5
    OS Windows 10 64 bit
    Accessory #1 2 x Alphacool Full Copper Radiator 420mm/280mm
    Accessory #2 Monsoon MMRS reservoir w/ 2 x D5 Vario Pump
    Accessory #3 Monsoon Free Center Compression Fittings

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    Hey @Dragonpurr...what thermal paste/pads you using? I noticed in the video he even replaced the VRM pads that was provided from EK with the Thermal Grizzly. I've never used that paste before, but was considering getting the paste plus the pads. While I got everything all taken apart, I could redo the pads on my EK GPU block too.
    Panteks Enthoo Elite / Asus x299 Rampage VI Extreme / Intel I9-7900X / Corsair Dominator RGB 3200MHz
    MSI GTX 1080 TI / 2x Intel 900p / Samsung 970 Pro 512GB
    Samsung 850 PRO 512GB / Western Digital Gold 8TB HD
    Corsair AX 1200i / Corsair Platinum K95 / Asus Chakram
    Acer XB321HK 4k, IPS, G-sync Monitor / Water Cooled / Asus G571JT Laptop

  8. #1258
    ROG Guru: Orange Belt Array
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brighttail View Post
    Good write up and good suggestions. I had expected that the simple size of the monoblock would add temperature rather than lower it, so der8auer's review isn't surprising at all. I currently have a 140x420x30mm and 140x280x60mm radiators. I'm looking around for another case or other options of routing my current loop but I was going to look at the EK CE 480. It will be 45mm instead of 30mm which should give a little better heat transfer. I'm curious as to why you would intake from the top when heat naturally rises. I mean if you have good airflow it wouldn't matter too much but it is easier to draw cool air in from the bottom/front/back and exhaust at the top.

    Honestly I've got the Motherboard ordered and I am happy to wait on my other parts as I plan my build. I want to do this right so I only have to do it once. I've been toying with the thought of hardline tubing and instead of bending the tube, do straight lines and let the fittings make the bends. A cop out I know but I'm really fearful of bending my own tubes. Of course I may stick with soft tubing. I like the ability to do minor adjustments without having to drain the whole system.

    I'm still deciding on the acrylic see through monoblock or the black. I have an acrylic GPU cover that looks awesome when it is mounted vertically, but I went through three PCI-e ribbons that failed on me, so i think I'm done with that experiment, plus having it vertically would cover the beauty of the motherboard. My build is black/red, so either the black mono block or the acrylic with red fluid would work. here are a couple of pictures of my rig, both with the GPU being vertical and being normal. With the lights out, the red of the RAM really pops and with light, the red of the fluid pops. Currently I'm leaning towards the Black monoblock with a non-vertical GPU. Thoughts?

    Edit. Just finished watching that video. 40-50C under full load for the the VRM is a HUGE difference. Now I'm not expecting anything I do to get the VRM up to the point where it is throttling in my daily usage, but if I have to sacrifice 2-3 degrees on the CPU cooling for 10,15,20, 30 degrees on the VRM, that is a trade off I'll take any day.
    Just to clarify...My top rad is pulling cool air from the outside and the fans are intakes pointing into the case. The rad fans are not exhausts that push warm interior air through the rad.

    I am using a top intake push-pull radiator setup mainly because of the quirks of the In Win Tou 2.0 case that I am using. I have six Tou 2.0 cases, and after moving two builds out of the Tou's, all three R6E workstations will go inside the three remaining vacant Tou's, and after these builds, I do not plan any PC upgrades for at least 5 to 6 years (or maybe even longer if AMD's competition tapers off and Intel goes back to 10% performance increases with each new chipset). Normally, I would place the main rad in the front with front intakes, but the Tou's airflow is quirky. I am also modifying and Dremeling parts of the Tou case, along with including stained glass, fused glass, and 0.75"-thick clear acrylic blocks that I cut on a table saw. I added an extra Corsair HD140 RGB fan as a bottom intake, three front HD120 RGB fans as intakes, and the positively-pressured airflow exits the rear, even with the Tou's rear mirrored glass panel, along with the PSU fan also facing upward as an exhaust. The mirrored tempered glass on the Tou is also very leaky, and all those gaps also serve as exhaust vents. To minimize dust coming into the case, the airflow is positively pressured, the highest fan speeds are on the top rad and bottom intake fan, and the top rad uses a more porous dust filter, while the bottom fan draws air through a medium-weave dust filter. The three front intakes run at low to medium speed with no dust filter, and their main purpose is to push air from front to back. It actually works very well this way. I have a gaming build with a Z270 mobo and two 1080 Ti's in another Tou 2.0 with this same airflow setup. I always perform some smoke tests with a stick of incense to check airflow as I adjust my fan curves.

    The EK CoolStream XE 360 will sit on top of the Tou 2.0 case, housed inside a Koolance 3x120mm radiator enclosure. When winter arrives here at 7800-feet elevation and my computer office cools down to 50 degrees-F, I can get a chunk of extra OC headroom from that chilly ambient temp.

    Go with soft tubing if you like that. If designed well, hardline looks nicer. But I have also seen ugly hardline builds. And it does not improve performance one bit, so who cares really...

    I would still go with the clear-nickel for your rig, but that is all just personal preference. Your red coolant would splash that center area with red to complement your color theme.
    Last edited by DragonPurr; 09-19-2017 at 07:55 PM.

  9. #1259
    ROG Guru: Brown Belt Array Brighttail PC Specs
    Brighttail PC Specs
    Laptop (Model)Asus G751JT
    MotherboardAsus x299 Rampage VI Extreme
    ProcessorIntel i9-7900x
    Memory (part number)Corsair Dominator Platinum SE 3200Mhz 4x8
    Graphics Card #1MSI GTX 1080TI
    MonitorAcer XB321HK (4k,IPS,G-sync)
    Storage #1Intel 900p (Boot) 2xSM961 (RAID 0) Games
    Storage #2Samsung 850 Pro 512GB - WD Black 4TB
    CPU CoolerCustom Water Cool
    CasePhanteks Enthoo Elite
    Power SupplyCorsair AX 1200i
    Keyboard Corsair Platinum 95
    Mouse Asus SPATHA
    Mouse Pad Corsair MM800
    Headset/Speakers Kanyo Y5
    OS Windows 10 64 bit
    Accessory #1 2 x Alphacool Full Copper Radiator 420mm/280mm
    Accessory #2 Monsoon MMRS reservoir w/ 2 x D5 Vario Pump
    Accessory #3 Monsoon Free Center Compression Fittings

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    Quote Originally Posted by DragonPurr View Post
    Just to clarify...My top rad is pulling cool air from the outside and the fans are intakes pointing into the case. The rad fans are not exhausts that push warm interior air through the rad.

    I am using a top intake push-pull radiator setup mainly because of the quirks of the In Win Tou 2.0 case that I am using. I have six Tou 2.0 cases, and after moving two builds out of the Tou's, all three R6E workstations will go inside the three remaining vacant Tou's, and after these builds, I do not plan any PC upgrades for at least 5 to 6 years (or maybe even longer if AMD's competition tapers off and Intel goes back to 10% performance increases with each new chipset). Normally, I would place the main rad in the front with front intakes, but the Tou's airflow is quirky. I am also modifying and Dremeling parts of the Tou case, along with including stained glass, fused glass, and 0.75"-thick clear acrylic blocks that I cut on a table saw. I added an extra Corsair HD140 RGB fan as a bottom intake, three front HD120 RGB fans as intakes, and the positively-pressured airflow exits the rear, even with the Tou's rear mirrored glass panel, along with the PSU fan also facing upward as an exhaust. The mirrored tempered glass on the Tou is also very leaky, and all those gaps also serve as exhaust vents. To minimize dust coming into the case, the airflow is positively pressured, the highest fan speeds are on the top rad and bottom intake fan, and the top rad uses a more porous dust filter, while the bottom fan draws air through a medium-weave dust filter. The three front intakes run at low to medium speed with no dust filter, and their main purpose is to push air from front to back. It actually works very well this way. I have a gaming build with a Z270 mobo and two 1080 Ti's in another Tou 2.0 with this same airflow setup. I always perform some smoke tests with a stick of incense to check airflow as I adjust my fan curves.

    The EK CoolStream XE 360 will sit on top of the Tou 2.0 case, housed inside a Koolance 3x120mm radiator enclosure. When winter arrives here at 7800-feet elevation and my computer office cools down to 50 degrees-F, I can get a chunk of extra OC headroom from that chilly ambient temp.

    Go with soft tubing if you like that. If designed well, hardline looks nicer. But I have also seen ugly hardline builds. And it does not improve performance one bit, so who cares really...

    I would still go with the clear-nickel for your rig, but that is all just personal preference. Your red coolant would splash that center area with red to complement your color theme.
    Ah the Tou 2.0... that is a case. Much sleeker and sexier than the Phanteks Enthoo Elite and also 2x more expensive and well out of my price range. hehe.

    With the Tou 2.0 you have really two main places for rads, the front an top. Do you have only one rad or another on the front? That is a lot of positive pressure with intake from top, front and bottom with exhaust only out the rear. I can't wait to see your build in that case. Even if I could afford just the case, I would have to then change my 140mm rads to 120mm. Too much to change.

    You also missed my question on the thermal paste/pads you use. Will you change your thermal pads on the monoblock?
    Panteks Enthoo Elite / Asus x299 Rampage VI Extreme / Intel I9-7900X / Corsair Dominator RGB 3200MHz
    MSI GTX 1080 TI / 2x Intel 900p / Samsung 970 Pro 512GB
    Samsung 850 PRO 512GB / Western Digital Gold 8TB HD
    Corsair AX 1200i / Corsair Platinum K95 / Asus Chakram
    Acer XB321HK 4k, IPS, G-sync Monitor / Water Cooled / Asus G571JT Laptop

  10. #1260
    ROG Guru: Orange Belt Array mpoffo PC Specs
    mpoffo PC Specs
    MotherboardRampage VI Extreme
    ProcessorIntel 7900x
    Memory (part number)G.Skill F4-3200C16Q-32GTZR = 32 GB 3200 Kit
    Graphics Card #1EVGA 3090 FTW Ultra
    Graphics Card #2Nvidia Geforce 1080 FE
    Sound CardSound Blaster Z
    MonitorX34 Predator + 2 Samsung Aux Monitors
    Storage #1Samsung 840 Pro256 GB/850 Evo 500 GB
    Storage #2WD 2 TB & 4TB Black Hard Drives
    CPU CoolerCorsair H115i
    CaseCorsair 900D
    Power SupplyCorsair 1200i
    Keyboard Corsair K95 Platinum - RGB
    Mouse Corsair Dark Core RGB Pro SE
    Headset Corsair Virtuoso RGB Wireless SE
    Mouse Pad Corsair MM800 RGB Polaris
    Headset/Speakers Logitech 5.1 Surround THX Speakers
    OS Windows 10 Pro - 64 Bit
    Network RouterNetgear Nighthawk (RAX 200) AX11000
    Accessory #1 Corsair Comm. w/ Corsair HD Fans - NZXT Hue +
    Accessory #2 DX Racer King Series Chair
    Accessory #3 3D Printer/HTC VIVE/Valve Index
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    VRM Heatsink and chipset cover

    Hello fellow RVIEer's. I got my board today and all basically looks good. Like others some of the plastic protection was coming off but not too bad. Extremely happy to have it!

    Anyway take a look at this pic:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    It appears that the one screw hole for the VRM heatsink fan brace is rusted? I have not tried screwing the screw in it yet. I assume it will not cause issues with functionality but I am a bit disappointed to see it. It did not rub off so it is not a compound that I am aware of. I am wondering if others have this issue. If the screw hole works then I will live with it although I rather not have the blemish there to begin with I suppose. Raja any thoughts on how I can address this?

    Also, are there instructions some where on how to remove the chipset cover. 2 of the mounting screws are covered by it. I see one screw for the cover but was not sure if there were more. Or is it not necessary to use those to mounting holes?
    Last edited by mpoffo; 09-20-2017 at 12:05 AM.
    RVIE X299 System:
    Windows 10 Prof 64-bit | Intel Core i9 7900x | ASUS Rampage VI Extreme | Corsair AX 1200i PSU
    Corsair 900D | 32 GB 3200 G.SKILL Trident RGB Series | RTX 3090/EVGA GTX 1080 | Acer X34 Predator Monitor
    Samsung 840 PRO 256 GB | Samsung 850 EVO 500 GB | Intel 520 SATA SSD 240GB HD | 2 & 4 TB WD Black Hard Drive
    Creative Sound Blaster Z | Logitech THX 5.1 speaker setup

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