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  1. #1
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    Exclamation Help. My CPU is going mad hot.

    Not sure what's going on or how to go about this. My system according to the Asus suit was ideling at 36. Then out of no were the fans started getting loud and my temp was showing 75c. I quickly shut down the computer. The turns it on again went into bios and my temp was at 80c. And rising so I shut system of...I ddunno what to do and need help. Am using my phone to send this. My spec is I7 7700k 4.5ghz. No overclock. The motherboard is Asus z270 maximum ix formula and the CPU cooler is a corsair h100i v2. Please advise..
    CPU: i7 7700k
    GPU: EVGA 1080ti Kingpin
    Ram: GSkill TridentZRGB 2x8 3200mhz
    cooler: NZKT kraken x52
    Psu: EVGA G2L 850watt
    HD1: Samsung 840 EVO 256GB
    HD2: WDCB 1T
    HD3: WDCB 4T
    OS: Windows 10 64bit
    Case: HAFX

  2. #2
    ROG Guru: Black Belt Array Korth PC Specs
    Korth PC Specs
    MotherboardASUS X99 R5E (BIOS2101/1902)
    ProcessorHaswell-EP E5-1680-3 SR20H/R2 (4.4GHz)
    Memory (part number)Vengeance LPX 4x8GB SS DDR4-3000 (CMK32GX4M4C3000C15)
    Graphics Card #1NVIDIA Quadro GP100GL/16GB, 16xPCIe3, NVLink1 (SLI-HB)
    Graphics Card #2NVIDIA Quadro GP100GL/16GB, 16xPCIe3, NVLink1 (SLI-HB)
    Sound CardJDS Labs O2+ODAC (RevB), USB2 UAC1
    MonitorASUS PG278Q
    Storage #1Samsung 850 PRO 512GB SSDs, 4xSATA3 RAID0
    Storage #2Comay BladeDrive E28 3200GB SSD, 8xPCIe2
    CPU CoolerRaijintek NEMESIS/TISIS, AS5, 2xNH-A14
    CaseObsidian 750D (original), 6xNH-A14
    Power SupplyZalman/FSP ZM1250 Platinum
    Headset Pilot P51 PTT *modded*
    OS Arch, Gentoo, Win7x64, Win10x64
    Network RouterActiontec T3200M VDSL2 Gateway
    Accessory #1 TP-Link AC1900 Archer T9E, 1xPCIe
    Accessory #2 ASUS/Infineon SLB9635 TPM (TT1.2/FW3.19)
    Accessory #3 ASUS OC Panel I (FW0501)
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    Is the AIO pump powered? If so, has it seized? Check all power connectors.

    You might need to replace the TIM (thermal paste) between the AIO block and the processor IHS, the old stuff could've been incorrectly applied or just cooked off.
    "All opinions are not equal. Some are a very great deal more robust, sophisticated and well supported in logic and argument than others." - Douglas Adams

    [/Korth]

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Korth View Post
    Is the AIO pump powered? If so, has it seized? Check all power connectors.

    You might need to replace the TIM (thermal paste) between the AIO block and the processor IHS, the old stuff could've been incorrectly applied or just cooked off.
    .

    I doubt thermal paste was applyd incorrectly since iv had this upgrade since July with no issues...i was litraly on my desktop pluging in a ps4 controller and that's when it happend. I'm unable to get hold of corsair either to get an RMA also this unit is only 3 months or so old. I had an issue with the previous unit and they sent me this one....at this rate..I'm considering to just by a nzkt kraken... I'm afrade to turn it on.
    CPU: i7 7700k
    GPU: EVGA 1080ti Kingpin
    Ram: GSkill TridentZRGB 2x8 3200mhz
    cooler: NZKT kraken x52
    Psu: EVGA G2L 850watt
    HD1: Samsung 840 EVO 256GB
    HD2: WDCB 1T
    HD3: WDCB 4T
    OS: Windows 10 64bit
    Case: HAFX

  4. #4
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    Exclamation

    I turnd on the PC again and it said CPU fan speed error detected. Ensure CPU fan is properly installed on CPU fan header it adjust disable fan speed low limit options in the uefi bios. Everything is connected though. The fans on the radiator are spinning. I'm not sure about the pump though. I feel a slight vibration on the tubing. Not sure what to do. Any advise. I'm not sure what that message meens .
    Last edited by domfather; 08-20-2017 at 09:57 AM.
    CPU: i7 7700k
    GPU: EVGA 1080ti Kingpin
    Ram: GSkill TridentZRGB 2x8 3200mhz
    cooler: NZKT kraken x52
    Psu: EVGA G2L 850watt
    HD1: Samsung 840 EVO 256GB
    HD2: WDCB 1T
    HD3: WDCB 4T
    OS: Windows 10 64bit
    Case: HAFX

  5. #5
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    I managed to check in the monitoring section in the bios and under water pump+speed to start with it said 4000 then 2055 then 3000 then it stoped on 650 and stays there...any ideas? Could it be a simple fix with a setting in the bios? Why would it suddenly do this???
    CPU: i7 7700k
    GPU: EVGA 1080ti Kingpin
    Ram: GSkill TridentZRGB 2x8 3200mhz
    cooler: NZKT kraken x52
    Psu: EVGA G2L 850watt
    HD1: Samsung 840 EVO 256GB
    HD2: WDCB 1T
    HD3: WDCB 4T
    OS: Windows 10 64bit
    Case: HAFX

  6. #6
    ROG Guru: Brown Belt Array davemon50 PC Specs
    davemon50 PC Specs
    Laptop (Model)Asus G752VY-DH72 (17") and Asus G752VT-DH74 (17")
    MotherboardAsus ROG LGA2011-v3 Rampage V Edition 10, x99 EATX
    ProcessorIntel Core i7-6950X Extreme 10-core 25MB Cache 3.0 GHz
    Memory (part number)Corsair Vengeance LPX Red DDR4 DRAM 64GB-4x16 3333 (CMK64GX4M4B3333C16R)
    Graphics Card #1Sapphire Nitro Radeon R9 Fury 4GB HBM Backplate
    Graphics Card #2Sapphire Nitro Radeon R9 Fury 4GB HBM Backplate
    Sound CardAsus SupremeFX Hi-Fi Audio DAC
    Monitor(2) Dell UltraSharp U2515H 25-inch monitors
    Storage #1(3) SSD's - Samsung 960 1TB M.2, Intel 535 480G, Intel 510 250G
    Storage #2(3) HDD's - Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB 3.5-in SATA III 64MB Cache
    CPU CoolerCorsair Hydro Series H80
    CaseCorsair Obsidian Series 650D Black, ATX, Mid Tower
    Power SupplyCorsair Digital AXi-Series AX1200i (1200W) 80+ Platinum Rating
    Keyboard Logitech Wireless K360
    Mouse Logitech Wireless MX Anywhere 2
    Headset HyperX Cloud II
    OS Windows 10 Pro 64-Bit
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    Assuming you have your AIO pump plugged into your CPU_FAN header, make sure you have Q Fan control off. You need to make sure you have constant voltage to the pump and that it is not under control. Pump should read constant RPM all the time. The pump block will control the fan speeds. If you have that set up correctly and you are still getting wild fluctuations like that on the pump RPM then I suspect either your pump block has failed (or in process of failing) or you have a cable problem. Remove your pump block and power connection and reseat them, and make sure there are no "pinched" wires.

    As stated above, if the TIM was not applied correctly it could've given you temporary stability while it was cooking off, and now this problem has exposed itself. So that could also still be your issue.

    Another problem is sometimes the pump block is either screwed down too tightly or unevenly. Try resetting the standoff screws and not too tightly.
    Davemon50

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by davemon50 View Post
    Assuming you have your AIO pump plugged into your CPU_FAN header, make sure you have Q Fan control off. You need to make sure you have constant voltage to the pump and that it is not under control. Pump should read constant RPM all the time. The pump block will control the fan speeds. If you have that set up correctly and you are still getting wild fluctuations like that on the pump RPM then I suspect either your pump block has failed (or in process of failing) or you have a cable problem. Remove your pump block and power connection and reseat them, and make sure there are no "pinched" wires.

    As stated above, if the TIM was not applied correctly it could've given you temporary stability while it was cooking off, and now this problem has exposed itself. So that could also still be your issue.

    Another problem is sometimes the pump block is either screwed down too tightly or unevenly. Try resetting the standoff screws and not too tightly.
    Thanks for replying. I went ahead and took the cooler of and I found that when I was doing this the top left screw of the cpu block would not come of but the othets came of fine and that screw only came of after the others and when it did the standoff came of with it..(one of the things that go in the 4 holes around the cpu). I screwed it in again but unlike the others it dose not tighten fully it just turns endlessly and the backplate feels Loos because of this....is this what could cause it.? Or is the lossnes of the backplate normal. I have not applyd the Tim as of yet because I'm not sure about this and I have limited Tim and don't want to waste it. Thanks
    Last edited by domfather; 08-20-2017 at 03:29 PM.
    CPU: i7 7700k
    GPU: EVGA 1080ti Kingpin
    Ram: GSkill TridentZRGB 2x8 3200mhz
    cooler: NZKT kraken x52
    Psu: EVGA G2L 850watt
    HD1: Samsung 840 EVO 256GB
    HD2: WDCB 1T
    HD3: WDCB 4T
    OS: Windows 10 64bit
    Case: HAFX

  8. #8
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    K...I dunno. I took it all apart cleand the radiator reinstalled the stand ofs applyd Tim did everything from scratch. Turnd on PC and I get the same exact error message and temps still climbing..i looked in qfan controle and under aio pump and water pump there is no option for silent standard etc. the graph is blank...what should I do? Also should I of been using the corsair software to moniter it? I thought since Asus suite did all that for me I did not need the software....mad confused..
    CPU: i7 7700k
    GPU: EVGA 1080ti Kingpin
    Ram: GSkill TridentZRGB 2x8 3200mhz
    cooler: NZKT kraken x52
    Psu: EVGA G2L 850watt
    HD1: Samsung 840 EVO 256GB
    HD2: WDCB 1T
    HD3: WDCB 4T
    OS: Windows 10 64bit
    Case: HAFX

  9. #9
    ROG Guru: Brown Belt Array davemon50 PC Specs
    davemon50 PC Specs
    Laptop (Model)Asus G752VY-DH72 (17") and Asus G752VT-DH74 (17")
    MotherboardAsus ROG LGA2011-v3 Rampage V Edition 10, x99 EATX
    ProcessorIntel Core i7-6950X Extreme 10-core 25MB Cache 3.0 GHz
    Memory (part number)Corsair Vengeance LPX Red DDR4 DRAM 64GB-4x16 3333 (CMK64GX4M4B3333C16R)
    Graphics Card #1Sapphire Nitro Radeon R9 Fury 4GB HBM Backplate
    Graphics Card #2Sapphire Nitro Radeon R9 Fury 4GB HBM Backplate
    Sound CardAsus SupremeFX Hi-Fi Audio DAC
    Monitor(2) Dell UltraSharp U2515H 25-inch monitors
    Storage #1(3) SSD's - Samsung 960 1TB M.2, Intel 535 480G, Intel 510 250G
    Storage #2(3) HDD's - Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB 3.5-in SATA III 64MB Cache
    CPU CoolerCorsair Hydro Series H80
    CaseCorsair Obsidian Series 650D Black, ATX, Mid Tower
    Power SupplyCorsair Digital AXi-Series AX1200i (1200W) 80+ Platinum Rating
    Keyboard Logitech Wireless K360
    Mouse Logitech Wireless MX Anywhere 2
    Headset HyperX Cloud II
    OS Windows 10 Pro 64-Bit
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    Yeah that can be problematic. It "could" work but if the backplate is loose then all you would need to do is sustain vibrations in the house and all can change.

    Does your board have a built in backplate, or did you have to install one youself?

    In the end, you should have a snug evenly applied fit off the backplate to the thumbscrews. No looseness, but not overtightened either. Personally the way I do it is I use thumbs only, alternating tightening in a star pattern a little at a time, until each thumbscrew resists tightening with a firm finger pinch (not all my might, just firm). Then I take a screwdriver and lightly turn it just a tiny bit more. If you hold the end of the screwdriver instead of wrapping your whole hand around it, then you can feel the comparison of tightness between the corners.

    Anyway if you have a broken backplate standoff you need to resolve this.
    Last edited by davemon50; 08-20-2017 at 09:36 PM.
    Davemon50

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by davemon50 View Post
    Yeah that can be problematic. It "could" work but if the backplate is loose then all you would need to do is sustain vibrations in the house and all can change.

    Does your board have a built in backplate, or did you have to install one youself?

    In the end, you should have a snug evenly applied fit off the backplate to the thumbscrews. No looseness, but not overtightened either. Personally the way I do it is I use thumbs only, alternating tightening in a star pattern a little at a time, until each thumbscrew resists tightening with a firm finger pinch (not all my might, just firm). Then I take a screwdriver and lightly turn it just a tiny bit more. If you hold the end of the screwdriver instead of wrapping your whole hand around it, then you can feel the comparison of tightness between the corners.

    Anyway if you have a broken backplate standoff you need to resolve this.
    Thanks for replying again. Maybe I was not clear it was not broken it was just attached to the CPU scew. But anyways I have since reedid everything and still I get the error. Now correct me if I'm wrong on this. But I had an old spare stock cooler from my old 3570k which has a 4 pin connecter and connects to the CPU fan header on the mother board which is also a 4 pin. I tried connecting that and when I turnd the PC on the fan spins and there is no error and boots straight into windows login...double checked with the corsair unit again same error...so is this safe to confirm that the CPU fan 3 pin connecter connected from the corsair block is broken and is the cause of this mess?
    Last edited by domfather; 08-20-2017 at 11:30 PM.
    CPU: i7 7700k
    GPU: EVGA 1080ti Kingpin
    Ram: GSkill TridentZRGB 2x8 3200mhz
    cooler: NZKT kraken x52
    Psu: EVGA G2L 850watt
    HD1: Samsung 840 EVO 256GB
    HD2: WDCB 1T
    HD3: WDCB 4T
    OS: Windows 10 64bit
    Case: HAFX

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