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  1. #11
    New ROGer Array
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    Personally, I'm using clear liquid and EKWBs ZMT black tubing. I didn't even go for a watercooled build because of the aesthetics, since my rig is under the desk anyway, so I went for what I think is the best combination.

  2. #12
    ROG Guru: White Belt Array jpmboy PC Specs
    jpmboy PC Specs
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    DW + some inhibitor is best.

  3. #13
    Banned Array JustinThyme PC Specs
    JustinThyme PC Specs
    Laptop (Model)G752VY-DH72
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    Sorry to hear of your misfortune.*

    As for coolant and flushes it’s all about what you prefer. 99% of *what is put out by reviewers and marketing is 100% conjecture to sell more stuff. Cmon now....silver coils in your loop? Can you say SNAKE OIL? If you actually have 100% pure distilled water, have properly flushed your system and not mixed parts to create a cathodic reaction how are microbial organisms going to be present and flourish? I wouldn’t doubt that half of the products on the market actually introduce microbes PURPOSELY! *I water cooled for years *with no additives and no microbes formed into anything. *Automotive systems go for decades without problems so long as you don’t introduce them.*

    How do I flush rads before installing them? First hot water from the tap where I can get plenty of flow. I have a tube set up with G1/4 on one end and a faucet adaptor on the other. Flush both directions for about 5 minutes. Then the secret......drain all water and blow it out with compressed air and lay radiator on its back with ports facing up and get a can or bottle of fresh CocaCola! Fill the rad with it slowly. It will immediately commence to bubbling and boiling. Leave it overnight and wake up to all the nasty green sheet that you scratch you head in disbelief over how that was even in there. Flush hot tap water again. Do this with all rads and blow out with compressed air before assembly. Put it all together and fill with distilled water run 24 hours, drain and toss. Refill and run machine loaded (new machine of course your gonna run bench and stability tests) for several days. Drain and toss water and refill with fresh distilled again and whatever impurities you wish it introduce or if you really want to keep it clean and maintenance free don’t put anything else in there!*

  4. #14
    New ROGer Array
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    Quote Originally Posted by JustinThyme View Post
    Sorry to hear of your misfortune.*



    How do I flush rads before installing them? First hot water from the tap where I can get plenty of flow. I have a tube set up with G1/4 on one end and a faucet adaptor on the other. Flush both directions for about 5 minutes. Then the secret......drain all water and blow it out with compressed air and lay radiator on its back with ports facing up and get a can or bottle of fresh CocaCola! Fill the rad with it slowly. It will immediately commence to bubbling and boiling. Leave it overnight and wake up to all the nasty green sheet that you scratch you head in disbelief over how that was even in there. Flush hot tap water again. Do this with all rads and blow out with compressed air before assembly. Put it all together and fill with distilled water run 24 hours, drain and toss. Refill and run machine loaded (new machine of course your gonna run bench and stability tests) for several days. Drain and toss water and refill with fresh distilled again and whatever impurities you wish it introduce or if you really want to keep it clean and maintenance free don’t put anything else in there!*
    Wow. Impressive. Might as well do that.

  5. #15
    ROG Guru: Orange Belt Array Abaidor PC Specs
    Abaidor PC Specs
    MotherboardRampage VI Extreme
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    JERUSA andi

    Quote Originally Posted by JustinThyme View Post
    Sorry to hear of your misfortune.*

    As for coolant and flushes it’s all about what you prefer. 99% of *what is put out by reviewers and marketing is 100% conjecture to sell more stuff. Cmon now....silver coils in your loop? Can you say SNAKE OIL? If you actually have 100% pure distilled water, have properly flushed your system and not mixed parts to create a cathodic reaction how are microbial organisms going to be present and flourish? I wouldn’t doubt that half of the products on the market actually introduce microbes PURPOSELY! *I water cooled for years *with no additives and no microbes formed into anything. *Automotive systems go for decades without problems so long as you don’t introduce them.*

    How do I flush rads before installing them? First hot water from the tap where I can get plenty of flow. I have a tube set up with G1/4 on one end and a faucet adaptor on the other. Flush both directions for about 5 minutes. Then the secret......drain all water and blow it out with compressed air and lay radiator on its back with ports facing up and get a can or bottle of fresh CocaCola! Fill the rad with it slowly. It will immediately commence to bubbling and boiling. Leave it overnight and wake up to all the nasty green sheet that you scratch you head in disbelief over how that was even in there. Flush hot tap water again. Do this with all rads and blow out with compressed air before assembly. Put it all together and fill with distilled water run 24 hours, drain and toss. Refill and run machine loaded (new machine of course your gonna run bench and stability tests) for several days. Drain and toss water and refill with fresh distilled again and whatever impurities you wish it introduce or if you really want to keep it clean and maintenance free don’t put anything else in there!*

    Haha, and I thought I was the only one that doesn't believe in using anything but pure water. I have been running a loop for the last 9 years with NO MAINTAINANCE! Yes, right nothing but just small top-ups once a year.

    This loop was initially filled with WFI (water for injection) and after I got into Salt Water Aquariums (not anymore) and got my self a good Reverse Osmosis filter with DI stages as well, I am just using water from it for the top ups.

    This old loop uses Thermochill Radiators and I cleaned them up with vinegar and I thing some bleach about 10 years ago when I bought them. Then flushed them with an attached hose just as you described (pressure).

    I just got a big RAD now from Watercool.de ( a 9 X 1400) so I will do as you suggest.


    I have seen videos in youtube using Coca Cola for cleaning metal parts but never thought of using it in a radiator. Good thinking and a lot cheaper than Mayhems Bleach (which I would not get).


    Anyway, is there a chance that Coca Cola corrodes or cause some sort of damage to any type of solder in there? I guess copper is pretty safe from it so no worries. What I don't know is what kind of chemical reactions take place between a Coke and the various types of solder / flux.

  6. #16
    ROG Guru: White Belt Array
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brighttail View Post
    I've been using Mayhem's pastel (Red, Blue and Purple) over the last 6 years or so and have never had an issue with gunk build up. I ran a Swiftech CPU block, some Asus 980 Poseidon and MSI Sea Hawks with the EK waterblock and NEVER an issue with gunk. I really think it was these new Xflow radiators. I probably didn't run blitz long enough or didn't flush them in the sink enough, tho I boiled Distilled water and let it set a minute or two so I'd be pouring almost boiling water in to them before sloshing them around. I had a lot of crap come out of them at the beginning but eventually it came clean, so I really think it was the rads in the end that had even more **** in them.

    Yeah the monoblock is live n learn. Some water dripped onto the motherboard behind the shield, but I was using a PSU by-pass so no electricity to the board. It will be a few days before I get my monoblock it looks like so it will have some time to dry. Thankfully I was on my fourth flush so no red pastel left in the loop really and almost 100% distilled water.
    Have you ever tried Dazmode's Protector additive? It's basically just glorified glycol but I've been using that with distilled water for the last 6 years with no issue. I've been really bad and haven't serviced my loop for about 4 years but it still runs well. When I transfer my R6E into my current case I'll service everything at that point but I'll stick with the same stuff.

    Although those coloured and pearly fluids look great I just don't want the hassle of any potential blockage and gunk. Simple works best IMHO.

  7. #17
    ROG Guru: Orange Belt Array
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    I prefer the full nickel blocks they make I still have a few they were indestructible! Not a fan of acetal. But they didn't make one for this MB unfortunately.

  8. #18
    ROG Guru: Yellow Belt Array Marko911 PC Specs
    Marko911 PC Specs
    MotherboardAsus Rampage extreme VI
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    Oh chemistry,oh chemistry....

    Jesus,don't put cola in copper rads!That green color that came is part of Cu oxidation caused by phosphates in cola!
    Rinse your rads with distiled water once or twice and that's enough. I personally like HL water-soluble flux so I don't have to flush my rads.
    If you want to flush clean your rads and blocks from previous color dyes than just use a freaking active charcoal with heated water around 50C.It's safe,it doesn't destroy or interact with metals.and it's cheap.
    In my opinion EKWB color additives are safe,don't cause any gunk to build up and their pigment is fairly easy to remove even with just plain water.
    You will not notice any difference in using demineralized water,distilled double-triple,sterile water.Difference in these beforementioned waters is so insignificant in use on nickel-ed plated metals,and there will be no significant changes in your loop block metals like cu,brass or their plating's.

  9. #19
    ROG Guru: Brown Belt Array LiveOrDie PC Specs
    LiveOrDie PC Specs
    MotherboardASUS RAMPAGE VI EXTREME OMEGA
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    I had the same issue with EK clear, you have to watch out for crappy coolant, Ice Dragon is the best and just add a dye to it because its while, also i've used the same coolant for 3 years, when i upgrade from X99 i drained it the rain the same coolant though a pillow case and it had no build up at all, my temps have been the same with no change.
    Last edited by LiveOrDie; 02-03-2018 at 11:38 AM.

  10. #20
    ROG Guru: Orange Belt Array Abaidor PC Specs
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marko911 View Post
    Jesus,don't put cola in copper rads!That green color that came is part of Cu oxidation caused by phosphates in cola!
    Rinse your rads with distiled water once or twice and that's enough. I personally like HL water-soluble flux so I don't have to flush my rads.
    If you want to flush clean your rads and blocks from previous color dyes than just use a freaking active charcoal with heated water around 50C.It's safe,it doesn't destroy or interact with metals.and it's cheap.
    In my opinion EKWB color additives are safe,don't cause any gunk to build up and their pigment is fairly easy to remove even with just plain water.
    You will not notice any difference in using demineralized water,distilled double-triple,sterile water.Difference in these beforementioned waters is so insignificant in use on nickel-ed plated metals,and there will be no significant changes in your loop block metals like cu,brass or their plating's.

    Well that is why I asked about cola, because chemistry is always lurking when different materials interact. I am no chemistry expert but that bit I know. So phosphates + copper = oxidation.

    What about a white vinegar solution? I was following a thread at overclock.net with two participants being chemists and they did not pose any concerns regarding the use of vinegar for flushing. I have used vinegar for 24 hours in my old thermochill rads and they are still running great 10 years later - no maintainance - not even once.

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