kkn wrote:
radiator/radiators. you need 2x 120mm fan slot for each OC'd component, and since you live in a hot place you may need some more unless you have a house thats cold in a way.

first off, thanks for the speedy reply! 😃

alright, so i have three oc'd components...so that's 720mm-worth of rads -- i was looking at a 280mm rad at both front and top, so that's obviously far short at only 560mm-worth

a lot of the interior dimensions are guesswork from reading reviews, looking at the few images of 780t installs out there already, and pausing many video reviews to catch a peek of a mounting point - so i'm trying to err on the side of caution

here are my thoughts on getting more rad space in:
1. front will only allow for a maximum of 398mm top to bottom, because otherwise the screw holes don't line up
2. top has a lot of room...~30mm above the case proper and below the top grill, and 95mm of clearance to the top of the mobo - only worry is that the length of the rad and push fans inside the case actually stick into the 5.25" bays about 7-8mm - i plan on using those, but only for something like your aquaero and r5e oc in normal mode...so i don't think they even reach to the back of the bays

here you can see what i'm talking about in the vid:
@17:26 top rad clearance
@18:20 roof section
@19:26 front radiator limitations


so i think i'll go with this if i can't find a better option:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12700/ex-rad-225/Magicool_Extreme_Triple_120mm_Radiator_LC-RADI360...

GPU blocks, it MAY take some time until they are out.
you can try and ask in the EK section further below in the forum and ask when they have an estimate on release on reference card blocks.
heres some pics of upcoming it looks like -> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c311/s2312/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Water_Blocks_VGA_-_Card_-_nVid...

nice! thank you...i really like the look of the copper and acrylic water block - but i'm also looking to get a non-reference gtx 980, so that might delay available water blocks even more

as an aside, i'm wondering what people are thinking about water cooling these cards, as they're capable of extreme overclocking and the non-reference cards we've seen thus far seem to be the same card just with fancier air-cooling strategies -- would water cooling make the point of these non-ref models moot?

your friend could buy all the parts, and test it out and pack it back up and pack it all in a large cardboard box and ship it that way, so that way you would not get eny thing busted up ( hopefully ). case, i would take a look at the case options down there if you feel secure to add rads and tubings and things like that, since transport it WILL be trown back and forth even how "careful" they handle it, and things may get damaged.
i had a friend who got his pc effed up and he got nothing back for it from the carrier and builder.

yeah, this is actually my single greatest worry...but i've checked with a lawyer friend and both fed-ex and ups - people with shipping damage that are refused reimbursement typically make a couple of big mistakes: 1. always have the shipping service deluxe pack it for you while you take photos or video, 2. place the case back into its original packing material and box, then put that into a larger box 2" larger on each side, which is filled with quality packing material...the same goes for inside the case (and yes, vid cards, etc, should be uninstalled and bubble-wrapped, and finally 3. the shipping service should clearly see your precautions and be supplied with copies of the original receipts/invoices showing the prices -- they're a business and will know how to protect their own interests

for tubing im using 3/8-1/2 ( (10/13mm ) ID/OD ).
use normal compression fittings, cheep and good compare to 6 pcs for 30-40 usd.

do you find the 10/13mm better than other size tubing? from what i've read, it seems that anything from 3/8-5/8" to 1/2-3/4" doesn't increase cooling potential -- also, do you think it's better to stay with a single company for all fittings, or is the standard g1/4" prevalent enough to not make much difference?

gastkets + grills = waste of money

lol - yeah, you're right...but it's not much money being wasted, and it's bling!

lights. use LED strips and on the xspc take a look at this one -> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14186/ex-blc-971/XSPC_RayStorm_High_Performance_Acetal_CPU_Liquid_... ooling_Block_-_Intel_Sockets_LGA_115x_1366_2011.html?tl=g30c323s 1205#blank
that one you can add led lights on whit what ever color you want ( you need a connector for the led if it is a small contact type on it unless its normal power connector on it )

that looks sweet, but i think i'll go with an all copper cpu block hoping for better cooling -- appreciate the tip on the led strips...i think that's the way i'll go, but with pass-through molex connectors if possible

fans, get fans whit high mmh20 over 1.5
dont go for CFM, you need preshure not flow to go tru the rads.

yeah, all rad fans will be high static pressure (high mm/h2o) - only the rear 140mm and (if it fits) case bottom 140mm intake will be high cfm

fan brands i'm considering for push/pull are: noiseblocker, bgears, bitfenix, and corsair...all high static pressure and pwm

pump/res combo, take a look and you can see you can get a pump of you wishes ( well as long as its listed in the options ) -> [url]http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c97/s152/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-PC_Water_Cooling_Reservoirs-PumpResevoir_Combo-Page1.html[/url

this...this is where i'm stuck at the moment - any recommendations? it will also likely decide which brand/type of fittings i'll use for the entire system

i have the 900D and its HUGE

hahaha, i wanted a bigger, stronger, tougher case...and considered the 900d, but the weight of it would push the shipping to over us$1000 -- the 780t is only about 13kg

thanks again for your time and patience! 😃

kkn wrote:
fans, im using the noiseblocker e-loops my self, and i think they are performing good ( well thats what I think ), the once i have can be controlled by voltage only ( non PWM ). -> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16918/fan-1048/Noiseblocker_NB-eLoop_B12-3_120mmx25mm_Ultra_Silent...
if i was going for new fancontroller i would go for one whit PWM so i could controll the fans bether i think.
i dont know what controller you have tought of but think about the PWM one.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16920/fan-1050/Noiseblocker_NB-eLoop_B12-P_120mmx25mm_Ultra_Silent...

man, i looked at those e-loops while researching the noiseblocker fans - they're incredible...i just wish they were pwm and came in black

these are the three types of static pressure pwm fans i'm considering:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19767/fan-1246/BitFenix_Spectre_Pro_All_Black_120mm_PWM_Fan_BFF-SP...
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12692/fan-826/Noiseblocker_NB-BlackSilentPro_PLPS_120mm_x_25mm_Ult...
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13534/fan-887/Phobya_120mm_x_25mm_Nano-2G_1500rpm_PWM_Fan_-_Red_LE...

your second link (the one for a pwm controller) didn't work - it just took me back to the e-loop fans

pump, mabye go whit a PWM controlled one so you can controll the flow on it.
and get a flow ( taco ) meter on it.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16901/ex-tub-1369/Bitspower_G14_Thread_Flow_Sensor_-_Silver_BP-FS-...
pump/res combo, here is an example, just fasten it on the bottom inside the case where the 120 fan can be instaled

lol - that's pretty much exactly what i picked out - good choice, i think -- will look at the flow meter in conjunction with the feature set of the controller i choose for the fans/pump

temp, heres the probe im using ( this is black ) -> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21218/ex-tub-1992/Phobya_G14_Inline_Temp_Sensor_Coupler_-_2-Pin_-_...
between the pump and the probe its around 1+C diffrence so not too baad.

nice find...i had been looking at port sensors and couldn't find a good fitting for them - thanks

and use top as fill port, in and outlet on bottom.
a T fitting whit a valve as drain on the preshure side.
but make shure your friend ask's if tings fit together when buying parts for WC, like pump and res combo witch is important.
use a lill vaseline on the outside of the tubing to make it easyer to get it off again

planning on putting a female qdc at the top of the res and another in the back port of the pump top...then just have a long length of tubing with a male fitting and a single male qdc to swap in/out for fills/drains

you can get "foam" blocks that you can have inside the case when shipping ( remember they have to be antistatic ones or else its bye bye ), but i would take apart like the GPU/GPU's and pump/res for example, since its just plug and play that.

yeah, that's the plan

here i'll post my current parts list, though it's not complete yet:



and here's a rough schematic of the case, which helps me picture the rough layout and choose fittings (yes, go ahead and poke fun at my "paint" skillz) lol



thanks again, kkn...your advice is highly valued 😃

kkn wrote:
no need for QDC in 2 places, have it before the res/pump, i have it between res and pump since i have a stand alone pump and res.
so that way if you are lucky you can help it fill the loop and flush it ( you need extra water for that since you have front rad in/out let on top ).
and try and not let the pump suck air since that will damage the impellar.

my current build -> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?23795-overkill&p=272389&viewfull=1#post272389

and yes the link works, just look over the fan in the "link tread", they look the same but first one is voltage, and the last link is PWM.

sorry, i'm not sure i understand

but first off...wow, your build is a beast! that thing is huge!! i shudder to think what it would cost to fed-ex something like that from the us to china - lol

i was looking for the qdc in your build pics, but didn't spot it

i'm not really using two full qdc's...just two females and a single male (freud would make something of that)

the single male is attached to a fill/drain section of hose i can detach and put away in a drawer until needed

one female would attach directly to the top the res (with a male/male adapter and mini-valve) and do nothing unless i needed to fill or flush

the other female would be connected to the unused port opposite the intake/outflow ports of the acrylic pump top...it'd be attached to a 90deg rotary fitting and mini-valve, letting it swivel down when unused...or towards the open side panel when i attach the male to drain the system

being completely new to water cooling, perhaps i'm not understanding the steps involved in filling/draining/flushing or bleeding air from the system?

here's a simple "paint" of what i had in mind - basically there'd be two similar pieces with the mini-valve:


i apologize for my confusion, but i really do want this to be as easy as possible