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getting H110. I guess it is time to overclock

lum-x
Level 7
Hello there,

I will get by Monday or Tuesday H110. Now I have CM Evo 212 an my current overclock is 4.0 at 1.3v stable (http://valid.x86.fr/uym2n8). Temps with HWiNFO are while prime small FFT and the ambient temp on my galaxy s4 is 24C (not the most accurate tool to measure room temp).

  • Package 43.3C
  • CPU 53C
  • T0: 48C
  • T1: 37C
  • T2: 52C
  • T3: 25C

I should note that i have

  • LLC, at High
  • Cpu Power Phase at Extreme
  • CPU/NB LLC at High
  • DRAM Power Phase at Extreme
  • All voltages set to default lowest ex NB Core is at 1.00, CPU/NB is at 1.244, etc

Before i start experimenting i just wanted to make this thread to be able to share my experience and hopefully no issues on the way.

My aim is to have NB at 233 and my overclock at 4.5 stable with all CnC, C states enabled, and without AMP (I hate when i see cores downclocking when i do intense tasks).

Any suggestion before i begging are welcomed. I will write back when during the weekend when i start testing few things with EVO 212

Thanks 😄

EDIT

These are my current specs

MOBO >ASUS Crosshair V Formula-Z
CPU & Cooler > FX-8320 under Coolermaster Hyper 212 EVO
MEMORY > 2x G.SKILL Sniper Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 1866 F3-14900CL9D-8GBSR
POWER SUPPLY > CORSAIR RM 750W.
VIDEO CARD >Sapphire R9 290
HDDs/Optical drives > Crucial M4 128Gb, WD Green 1Tb
SOUND DEVICE > Onboard
O/S > Win 7 Pro 64 bit
Case > NZXT Phantom 410

One more thing. When i stress the CPU voltage is 1.3 and when it idles it goes up 1.344v (the stock values). that's ok but just wanted to share it in case we see it in a pics and keep it as a note :D.

Thanks
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6 REPLIES 6

lum-x
Level 7
Ok, so today i received H110. I will play tomorrow because today i don't have time to change EVO 212 with H110.

I did some trials with EVO 212 to have a stable base with 233 FSB then when i switch to H110 just increase the CPU milti and voltage.

So far the results are as following.


I will post later pics from bios settings.

I have a questions. How safe is to leave NB at 250 instead of 233 and have 4.5 stable overclock? I did read that jumping from 233 or 200 to 250 decent performance jump, though i dont mind leaving the settings as they are.

lum-x
Level 7
OK i did install the H110. The temps are a lot better with fans at silent. 😄

I did manage to get 4.5 GHZ but it seems that i don't have the best chip. I had rise vCore at 1.475 to be stable. Usually at first 6th core fails then after i fix that issue 8th core fails then i fix that and things go fine.

Any tips are welcomed. 😄

I have the H110 on a 9590 and I've not been too happy with the cooling performance, though my case (NZXT H440) is a serious constraint. I've run it as high as 4.9 GHz, but if I want to keep the panels on the case, I have to back it down to 4.8 GHz.

I'm running the H110 with 4 akasa Viper SP140 fans in push/pull. Without panels, this is good for an 8C drop in package temperature over the stock Corsair fans. That said, I'm considering swapping out the H110 for a Swiftech H240-X. I need to do some more research, but I'd like to be able to run at 5 GHz with the panels on, if possible.

dertester
Level 7
@AceFace

Where is your H110 Rad mounted?

If on top i would mount it in the front first if its possible. That way it will always pull fresh air from the outside.

I also would check that the third fanspot under the radiator in the front is spinning a bit faster and has no restrictions to the graphics.
That way the top 2 spots will cool cpu but make case hotter for gpu, and the third bottom fan will provide an airpath to the gpu with cold air.

Top and back fans should be configured for positive air pressure to assure dust management.

just my opinion...

btw your case allows 360 rads, think about putting a little more money on a custom loop. i think it shouldb be too expensive to step up from the AIO watercoolers that dont perform sooo much better than good aircoolers.

AceFace
Level 7
Yeah a custom loop seems like a good option, but I need to solve this airflow problem. There's a 12C difference between running with the front panel mounted versus off (65C vs 53C). My H110 is mounted in the front, with 4 x Viper SP140 fans set as intake, 3 more 120mm fans up top (also intake), and finally one Corsair SP140 exhaust fan in the back.

Options I've been considering:

- Flipping at least two of the 120mm fans to exhaust to hopefully boost airflow through the case
- Modding the case: Specifically, adding cut-outs to the front panel to increase airflow over the radiator

And measures I've already tried:

- Removed the black grille from the front panel vent to increase airflow
- Switched from 2x Corsair 140mm fans to 4x akasa Viper SP140s

I'll try flipping the top fans around tonight and report back if there's any improvement.

dertester
Level 7
I personally wouldnt go for push/pull. Imo push is the best from the performance/noise ratio. Especially in pull some fans are so freaking loud..

If its only with the sidepanel and your rad is already in the front (getting fresh air) the only problem must be to much air pressure in the case that works against the rad..

I mean even if the case temp rises by 5C an rad as input shouldnt notice as it gets its air from the outside and the tubing wont collect so much heat..

=> LOL :cool: I just saw your top fans are intakes???

1) you have 7 Fans intake and 2 fans (include psu) as ouput..
=> You have so much pressure input here that your fans are working against each other.
For me no wonder that your rad is nearly stuck with the sidepanel closed.
And another note: Warm air goes upwards. So top fans blowing down isnt the best. Its only a little effect but cant be bad to consider when working out the airpath/flow

Test this:
==> 4 Front fans as input (max power you can bear for loudness) Is there a fan filter?
==> 1Back out, 3 top out. These usually have no restriction and get pushed by the intakes. To maintain positive air pressure (only a little bit) you should set them lower as the input fans.

I use a little incense(cone) to check at the openings if its pushing the smoke or pulling and adjust untill it gets slightly pushed.
That way you can fine-tune to perfect input/output ratio and get a perfect airflow.

(BTW i didnt know you can mount so many fans in that case, i thought only 3xfront intake and 2 top.. how did you do that ? Or am i wrong here?)